Reimers Ranch 215 routes in crag
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Austin's premiere sport climbing crag, just 30 miles outside of Austin, TX. Reimers Ranch offers hands down the best (and most) sport climbing in the state.
Reimers Ranch is a band of limestone cliffs alongside the Pedernales river. The routes here are short, never higher than 50 ft./15 m, and rarely more than 30 ft./9 m. You can be sure that with such short routes the moves are going to be insanely hard and it pays to be a strong boulderer here. The climbing is unique and varied but expect plenty of pocket pulling. For those who have never climbed before or want to lead for their first time check out Zoe's Wall and Shortcake wall, novice climbers (5.7 - 5.9) will likely head to Dead Cat's wall, while intermediate climbers (5.10 - 5.11) will love the variety at Prototype wall, War on Rugs Wall, and Crankenstien wall, as well as the less traveled Tit for Tom wall and Hand Beyond Wall. If you are an advanced climber (5.12-5.13-) then the Sex Cave and Sex Canyon are the place for you as well as the House of Pain wall, and for those Elites (5.13 - 5.14) there's no larger concentration of hard routes than at the Insect wall.
Reimers Ranch is a county park owned by Travis County, and as such follows the rules put forth by the county. There is no camping allowed in the park and dogs must be kept on a leash at all times (the park rangers are very strict about this, and will give you a ticket if they see your dog off leash). The park is open from 8:00 A.M. to civil twilight (that means around 6:00 in the winter and 9:00 in the summer), and entrance fee's are $10 per car. If it is your first time here you must sign a waiver to climb as well. If you move to the area and come here a lot you may want to get a park pass, which allows you to come and go as much as you like for one year at the price of $100.
From Austin: Follow 71/290 west until the two roads split, when the do bear right on 71. Follow this for 8.4 miles until you see Hamilton Pool Road on the left. Turn on Hamilton Pool road and follow it for 11.7 miles until you see the park entrance on the right.
From San Antonio: Follow US-281 north for 46 miles eventually bearing right on ranch road 163. Stay on 163 for 1.2 miles, then turn right on ranch road 165. Stay on 165 for 15.8 miles then turn right on US-290. Stay on 290 for 8.2 miles into the town of dripping springs. Turn left on Ranch Road 12 and stay on it until it dead ends into Hamilton Pool Road after 7.4 miles. Turn left on Hamilton pool road (stop at the gas station on the left if you need anything) and follow it for 5.1 miles until you see the park entrance on the right.
From San Marcos: Follow Ranch Road 12 north for 33.6 miles passing through Wimberly and Dripping Springs. When Ranch Road 12 dead ends into Hamilton Pool road, turn left and follow it for 5.1 miles until you see the park entrance on the right.
Where to stay
Camping is available at Pace Bend Park which is about 40 minutes away, as well as many hotels in Austin.
The climbing ethic is fairly casual, many classic routes are chipped but this was done a long time ago and chipping is not tolerated anymore. That being said, do not fill in chipped holes under any circumstances, what's done is done, don't mess with things. Please practice LNT, especially concerning dog poop (pick it up, carry it out, do NOT let them poop on the trail). Bolting must be approved by the Central Texas Mountaineers. Booty is up for grabs but on the rare occasion you see project draws (i.e. more than one draw hanging on a wall) do not remove them.
History can be found in Austin Climbing, the guidebook by John Hogge. As well as more detailed information about everything read here.
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