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Description

An almost perfect boulder for its size, offering a variety of easy to moderate (V0-V4) problems on immaculate (though at time a little sharp) rock (schist). The shorter, steeper North Face offers a dozen or so distinct problems, and numerous traverses / variants. The taller East Face is reasonably highball, and offers another half dozen distinct high quality problems. The glittery South Face has a couple of good highball problems and a classic mantle that's a good laugh.

This is an excellent place for kids (bring a kite!) and beginners (bring a picnic!), as the landings are generally flat and grassy, and the views down to the bay and across to San Francisco are spectacular. It is quite exposed however, and on windy days can be cold and unpleasant. During winter and spring the base of the boulder can be muddy.

Poison oak also sprouts underneath the short, steep side of the boulder, in amongst the grass and weeds - watch where you put your mat and feet.

There are also some petroglyphs that are worth checking out on the separate rock further to the West, across the small valley.

Approach

From the parking at the end of Taylor Rd, head right up the paved road then on up to the top of the hill. Turtle Rock will be visible down to the right in a small hollow.

History

Discovered and developed by the Bobzien brothers in the 1980s.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V5 *** Turtle Rock Traverse Boulder 150ft

Traverse either direction all the way around the boulder, staying off the top. V4 if you use the top of the North Face between The Lieback and Unnamed 3.

2
VB Kids Problem Boulder 5ft

The short juggy flake at the far right hand end. Can be climbed on both the right and the left.

3
V1 * The Sloper Boulder 8ft

Climb through the sloping rail just left of the flake on the Kids Problem.

4
V0 * Unnamed 1 Boulder 10ft

The jagged crack with pods, with a slippery undercut slab to start.

5
V1 ** Unnamed 2 Boulder 10ft

Crimpy face left Unnamed 1.

6
V2 ** Unnamed 3 Boulder 10ft

From the top of the diagonal ramp, reach straight up to the thin plate at the top.

7
V1 ** The Undercling Boulder 10ft

From the bottom of the diagonal ramp, climb up through the obvious undercling to the top.

8
V4 ** Unnamed 4 Boulder 10ft

Sit start in the weird pockets, then up the thin right leaning seam. Stand start on crimps is V2.

9
V0 ** The Layback Boulder 10ft

The obvious layback in the centre of the wall. Sit start is V2.

10
V0 * Unnamed 5 Boulder 8ft

Up the jugs left of The Lieback. This panel has numerous harder sit starts, eliminates and variants.

11
V0 Unnamed 6 Boulder 6ft

Sit start the obvious low flake at the left end of the steep wall.

12
V0 Unnamed 7 Boulder 8ft

The face right of the offwidth crack.

13
V0 The Offwidth Boulder 8ft

The offwidth crack that can be face climbed.

14
V0 ** Unnamed 8 Boulder 30ft

The overhanging face with jugs, then traverse off right, or continue up the easy grey flake, or continue straight up the loose highball black corner (best climbing & shown on the topo). Sit start is V1, and there are numerous variants on the steep lower wall.

15
V0 ** Unnamed 9 Boulder 30ft

Start at the rippled brown wall underneath the overlap. Up then left over the overlap and up the highball but easy wall above.

16
V1 ** Unnamed 10 Boulder 30ft

Start on the obvious undercling spike, then up the shallow scoop to a highball escape to the right (direct finish is slightly harder).

17
V4 ** The Arete Boulder 25ft

Directly up the proud arete separating the East Face and South Faces, using the small, sharp undercling flake at half height. Holds on adjacent climbs are off.

18
V2 ** Green Face Boulder 25ft

Straight up from the obvious footledge. There are several good variants on this panel of rock (including a V1 that veers left around the crux).

19
V1 ** Gold Face Boulder 25ft

Start at the right side of the low glittery arch on some obvious sidepulls, and climb up and then leftward towards the small tree.

20
V1 * Unnamed 11 Boulder 25ft

Start directly below the small tree and go straight up on sharp incuts.

21
V0 * The Mantle Boulder 15ft

Mantle the obvious ledge just left of the arch then continue over the top (or walk off left). Easier to the left, harder (and height dependent) to the right.