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The Parking Lot Wall 21 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height:
  • Style: Mostly Sport
  • Approach time: 3 minutes
  • Ascents: 493

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Description:

The closest wall to the parking lot, making it a favourite -- it has a variety of easier routes.

Approach:

Take the right-hand trail behind the notice board. Short approach, but stay on the trail as there are rare plants in the area.

Descent Notes:

Lower-off.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Shemp Lives

Often wet.

Has a large down/right facing corner -- climb up easyish ground, then move left around the corner and up.

5.8
Sport 8
2 Dead Sea Equestrian

Often wet.

Climb a series of nice flakes up the usually wet rock.

5.7
Sport 8
3 Red Sea Pedestrian
5.10b
Sport
4 Squeeze My Lemon
5.8
Sport
5 Glory Jean's

Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors.

FA: Mark Sprague,

5.7
Sport 8
6 Easily Amused

Goes up 3 bolts to anchors beside trees.

The bolts that continue above the anchor are "Rubicon".

5.6
Sport 3
7 Rubicon

Climb the face above the anchors for "Easily Amused".

Can be done as a 2nd pitch, but also easily done in a single push clipping one of the bolts of the Easily Amused anchors along the way.

5.10b
Sport 5
8 Easily Aroused
5.9
Sport
9 Rise And Shine

Start just left of the big boulder. Up the face to the corner system, pass it mostly on the left, then go right again to the anchors.

5.7
Sport 5
10 * Egg McMeadows
5.10a
Sport
11 Centerfold

Climb the (usually wet) left ascending crack/gully.

5.4 R
Trad
12 * Chloe's Breakfast Special

Starts up easy climbing (which is often wet), to a sustained upper face, one of the longer moderates in the Parking Lot area.

Worth picking your way past the wet start for the good climbing on the steep upper section.

FA: Dave Quinn, 1997

5.8
Sport 11
13 * Quinn/Callaghan Route

Climb up the almost always wet, but low-angle rock left of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" ascends to a high first bolt, then up the great climbing up the steep face above.

Another long route for the Parking Lot wall.

FA: Dave Quinn, Christine Callaghan, 2003

5.9
Sport 11
14 Shealyn's Way

Climb the obvious chimney then head left and up to the anchors. One of the longer routes at the parking lot wall, fun if the start isn't wet.

5.7
Sport 11
15 A Week With Pete

Climb the easy-angled jug-haul up the face to the right of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" climbs.

5.2
Sport 4
16 * Espresso
5.10d
Sport

The next three routes start from a ledge -- go right up the stairs, then left along the ledge to find them.

17 100% Columbian
5.11c
Sport
18 ** Juan Valdez

Climb up to, left, and around the obvious left-edged flake.

5.10b
Sport 5
19 Cafe' au Lait

Up the blocky corner to an obvious chimney, then stem up the chimney to the anchors. Yes, the fun of a bolted chimney!

5.6
Sport 8
20 Mr. Coffee
5.11a
Sport
21 Percolator

Right-most climb at the Parking Lot Wall -- from the right-most trail from the parking, if you turn right instead of going to the main section, you'll go up steps that lead directly to the base of this route.

Often wet.

In Ward Smith's (2009) book as 5.5, but the 5.7 grade listed here seems more reasonable.

5.7
Sport 5