The 5.8 Crag Rock climbing

18 routes in cliff

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Description

A smaller (by number of routes) still fairly low down on the cliff, so easy to approach.

Approach

From the overflow parking lot, hike along the path parallel to the road until the sign for the 5.8 crag, where the path narrows and veers upwards towards the crag.

Descent Notes

Most climbs have top anchors, either rap rings or permanent carabiners.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.3 Granny's Route Sport 4

Around the corner left from Asbury Park, climb the bolt line through the moss garden.

FA: Jim Shimberg, 2002

2
5.7 Asbury Park Sport 5

Climb the blunt corner below the railway ties, easier if you go around the corner to the left at times, more difficult (maybe 5.8) straight up the bolts.

FA: Jim Shimberg, 1990

3
5.8 Snake Skin Slab Sport 4

Starts at an obvious flake jutting out of the ground. A bit run-out after the last bolt to the anchors, but easier terrain.

FA: Jim Shimberg, 1989

4
5.8 The Terrace Sport 4

Up the obvious terraces to a steeper upper face.

FA: Dawn Shimberg, 1996

5

Go up the obvious wide chimney with the large boulders wedged in it.

FA: Jim Shimberg, 1989

6
5.9 Bolt And Run Sport

Climb the bolted face between the chimney and the crack.

FA: Glen Cilley

7

Despite the name, only 5.7.

Climb the obvious crack with ledges up to lower-offs. Very good protection with generally good stances to place it from.

8
5.10d * Milktoast Sport
9
5.10c Milksnake Trad
10
11

In the Ward Smith (2009) guide book as BBAC.

12
5.11a License To Kill Trad
13
5.12b Pump Up The Volume Sport
14
5.11b * Sky Pilot Trad
15
5.11b * Arm And Hammer Sport
16
5.8 * Mo Pump Sensation Sport 5

A ways up and right, look for glue-ins up a nearly vertical face.

FA: Keth Beccansoll, 2004

17
5.8 Raven Sport

Starts on a face just left of a vegetated corner and follows the bolts up and right to the anchor.

(Looked kind of vegetated in August 2012.)

18
5.10c Only a Crow Sport

from rockclimbing.com, "Protection: 6 bolts, slings for LO Description: The bolt line to the far right of the crag. Uses the same anchors as Raven, so it's easy to TR as well. Updated By: jhwnewengland Updated On: Jul 29 2002"