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Description

The shorted, less-intimidating section left of the main (central) wall.

Routes

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The following three routes start off a ledge a couple meters above the base of the cliff.

Start on the ledge, go up over steep juggy rock then angle leftwards up more slabby rock.

Belayer should consider slinging the tree to anchor in.

FA: Tom Bowker, 1986

Right hand bolt line leading up off the ledge. First bolt is a bit high (though over easy ground), so belayer may with to anchor to the tree to the right. Technical on the early part of the face, then more powerful near the end.

Follow the right-angling corner/ramp from the right end of the ledge.

The next three routes (Half Nelson, Full Nelson, unknown name) have been developed since the publication of Ward Smith's guide to Rumney in 2009.

New (since 2009) short route that starts down and right of the ledge.

2nd pitch, goes up the steep headwall above "Half Nelson".

Bouldery start to easier finish.

FA: Lee Hansche & Lily Hallett, 2010

Start between some trees growing close to the wall, just before the base turns a corner.

The start is bouldery, leading into easier climbing up the arete. Rock is much smoother without the usual sharp Rumney edges.

Starts from the end of "Anchovie Caper", going up and right from the belay.

Also starts above the end of "Anchovie Caper", go right from the belay, the up onto a ledge, then up an arete. Joins "Mister Meaner" at the top.

On the right of Anchovy Caper, climb in the dihedral now protected by a lower bolt. Start on a crimp with good footholds and toss to a jug on the right to get up the dihedral. Then easier climbing up to the anchor.

Climb straight up through the left side of the large roof.

Climb straight up through the right side of the large roof.

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