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Access issues inherited from San Juan Basin Volcanic Necks

Most of this area is on the Navajo Reservation. Many potential climbs are on "Sacred Lands" and supposedly off limits. Some can be accessed with permission because there are different levels of sacredness involved. Getting permission can be a time consuming activity. Cabezon has a high class 3 hike up the backside, is on BLM property, and needs no permission.


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Grade Route

Cabezon is a volcanic plug. Start south side of Cabezon about 40' west of end of barbed wire fence. Go up small sized fluted rock finally going over a few ledges. The next to last ledge is full of Cacti. Belay at ledge above it. You will have about 1 foot of rope left over on a 50 meter rope. Diagonal upward to the left over blocky boulders and ledges to a ledge on the skyline buttress. In front of you is a very wide (8' or so) chimney. Climb the textured bottom of the chimney, exiting to the right about halfway up and continue straight upward among the mushroom shaped blocks. Set belay in an alcoved ledge. Only tricams hold well here in odd shaped pockets. Continue up and leftward for an easy partial pitch to the top. It's three and a quarter pitches using up to #3 Camalots and up to #2 or #3 tricams. Descend on 3rd class+ trail on opposite side of the volcanic plug, being careful not to get off route.

FA: Jim Olsen & Fritz Devendorf, 2006


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