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Cabezon is a volcanic plug. Start south side of Cabezon about 40' west of end of barbed wire fence. Ascend small sized fluted rock finally going over a few ledges, or ascend about 20' on fluted face next to wall on right. The next to last ledge is full of Cacti. Belay at ledge above it. You will have about 1 foot of rope left over on a 60 meter rope (first pitch 5.5). Climb upward until you come to steeper cliffs and continue to the left over blocky boulders and ledges to a ledge on the skyline buttress (second pitch 5,6). You may want to break the second pitch into two to avoid rope drag. In front of you is a very wide (8' or so) chimney. Climb the textured bottom of the chimney, exiting to the right about halfway up and continue straight upward among the mushroom shaped blocks. Set belay in an alcoved ledge. Only tricams hold well here in odd shaped pockets. Continue up and leftward for an easy partial pitch to the top (more aesthetically pleasing route 5.5) It's three and a quarter pitches. Alternatively you may follow the textured rock to the top (easier, but not as cool.) Use standard rack to #2 or #3 Camalots. Carry up to #2 or #2.5 tricams for belay site protection on the aesthetic variation. Descend on 3rd class+ trail on opposite side of the volcanic plug, being careful not to get off route.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Jim Olsen & Fritz Devendorf, 17 May 2006


Located in Cabezon Peak approx:
Lat/Long: 35.599441,-107.095424

Route Grade Citations

5.6 Community registered grade

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 42%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

great technical

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