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Description

This is a large boulder/cluster high on the hill-side to the west. After Moby Dick, this is the largest/highest boulder in the field.

The cluster has an obvious "front" face, the steep face that the bolted route "Kung Pao" ascends.

Access issues inherited from Santee Boulder Field

Land is privately owned by large developers, but no signs are in place restricting access. Tagging and littering are common issues and groups including Allied Climbers of San Diego regularly hold clean-ups.

Approach

Generally trend up and leftwards from the entrance.

Ethic inherited from Santee Boulder Field

Be sure to wipe dirt from your shoes before climbing to reduce the polishing of footholds. Chipping is unacceptable.

Routes

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Grade Route

The first few climbs are on a face to the left of the main one.

1
5.8 Hand Crack Boulder

Fairly far to the left of the left boulder in the cluster, there is an obvious crack splitting the boulder.

2
5.11d Shockley's Lunge Boulder

Friction up to brown plate-like patina, then a couple lunges to finish.

3
5.12a Epperson's Lunge Boulder

Right of the plates.

4
5.10d Traverse Boulder

On the left boulder, start on the south face, near the rounded arête. Step up left onto the sloping ledge feature and traverse up and leftwards, finished at the end of the Hand Crack.

The next set of climbs are on the high, but not particularly steep, face perpendicular to the "main" face. There is a bolt at the top of this face for those who don't wish to high-ball them.

5
5.9 Left-Side Face Boulder

Climb up the left side of the face that is at right-angles to the main face of the boulder.

6
5.9 Center-Face Boulder

Climb up the center of the face.

7
5.8 Right-Side Face Boulder

Climb up the right side of the face.

The next problems are on the high, steep, main face of the boulder.

8
5.12a Dog-Pile Main Face Top rope

TR up the face left of Kung Pao.

9
5.12d Kung Pao Sport

Center of the main face of the boulder, follow bolt line to anchors.

10
5.7 Short Face Boulder

Short face to the right of the main one.

The remaining problems are around the side or back of the pile.

11
5.7 Zig-zag crack Boulder

On the east side of the boulder is a crack that angles up rightwards, then double-s back to the left. Crux is at the direction-change.

12
5.5 Seam Boulder

On the back side of the pile is a thin seam rising diagonally up and right. Friction up with seam for hands.