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Access issues inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.9 A0 PG13 * The Marching Morons Aid
2
5.7 PG *** Westward Ha! Unknown 170ft
3
5.10 PG13 Rags To Rich's Unknown
4
5.9 PG *** Cruise Control Unknown
5
5.5 PG * The High Traverse Unknown
6
5.8 G Recollectoin Unknown
8
5.8 PG Rib Cracker Unknown
9
5.11 R The Last Waltz Unknown
10
5.9 R Conflict Of Interest Unknown
11
5.10+ PG13 ** Big Band Era Unknown
12
5.11 G ** The King of Swing Unknown
13
5.9 R ** White Corner Unknown
14
5.11 White Knuckles Unknown
15
17
5.11 PG ** White Rose Unknown
18
5.10 PG ** High Plains Drifter Unknown
20
5.12 R * Sudden Impact Unknown
21
5.10+ PG Band Of Renown Unknown
22
5.10 PG * Schlemiel Unknown
23
5.11 PG ** Square Meal Unknown
24
5.12+ R *** Nectar Vector Unknown
25
5.11 PG *** New Frontier Unknown
27
5.9 PG New Frontier Variation Unknown
29
5.12 R *** Manifest Destiny Unknown
31
5.11 X Land Grab Unknown
32
5.11 X Land Grab Direct Start Unknown
33
5.11 PG13 ** Directpissima Unknown
34
5.11 R * In Search Of Lost Time Unknown
35
5.10 R Time Being Unknown
36
5.10 PG Mission Improbable Unknown
37
5.9 PG * Sweet Meat Unknown
38
5.10 PG Super Sunday Unknown
39
5.8 PG * Swinging Cunt Unknown
40
5.9 R Singing C Unknown
41
5.11 PG13 * Hang 'em High Unknown
42
5.10 PG Bank Manager Unknown
43
5.10+ PG The CEO Unknown
44
5.10 PG13 Artistry In Rhythm Unknown
45
5.10 R The Tempest Unknown
46
5.9 PG * Side Pocket Unknown
48
5.10 PG Leap Frog Unknown
49
5.10 PG13 Danger UXB Unknown
50
5.11 PG13 Explosive Bolts Unknown
51
5.7 PG * Strange City Unknown
52
5.7 PG * Strange City Variation Unknown
53
5.10 R ** Brown Bomber Unknown
54
5.10 PG Sing, Sing, Sing Unknown
56
5.4 G Three Buzzards Unknown
57
5.9 PG Insallah Unknown
58
5.10 PG Garden Of Allah Unknown
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5.9 PG Pelvic Thrust Unknown
60
5.11 PG Under The Wire Unknown
61
5.11 * The Rappel Line Unknown
62
5.12 The Enthizer Unknown
63
5.8 R Wire Wizard Unknown
64
5.10 PG *** The Time Eraser Unknown
65
67
68
5.10 PG The Future is Now Unknown
70
5.11 X * Rings Of Saturn Unknown
71
5.9 R Orbit Of Jupiter Unknown
72
5.10 X Asteroid Belt Unknown
73
5.10+ PG Asteroid Belt Variant Unknown
74
5.10 PG13 Search For Tomorrow Unknown
75
5.10 PG13 Diaper Man Unknown
76
5.11+ PG Paral-Lax Unknown
77
5.10 PG ** Cuckoo Man Unknown
78
5.7 PG13 ** Again And Again Unknown
79
5.11 PG13 Never Again Unknown
81
5.11 X Agent Orange Unknown
82
5.11 R Birth Of The Blues Unknown
83
5.11 PG ** Bank Shot Unknown
84
5.9 X Blue Streak Unknown
85
5.11 PG13 Little Brown Jug Unknown
86
87
5.10+ PG Delta Waves Unknown
88
5.9 PG Mood Indigo Unknown
89
5.8 R Bankrupt Unknown
90
5.5 G * Old Route Unknown
91
5.7 PG Golden Years Unknown
92
5.9 PG Apollo theater Unknown
93
5.9 PG Prelude Unknown
94
5.9 PG Fugue Unknown
95
5.9 PG Let Go My Allegro Unknown
96
5.10 PG Allegro Unknown
97
5.8 PG Better Late Than Never Unknown
98
5.9 PG Top Brass Unknown
99
5.11 R Face-Off Unknown
100
5.8 PG M32L Unknown
101
5.9 PG Saucony Unknown
102
5.14+ X Rubble Without ACause Unknown
103
5.10 PG Raging Bull Unknown
104
5.10 PG Presto Unknown
105
5.6 PG Air For A G-String Unknown