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Table of contents

1. Millbrook Mountain 105 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -74.226462, 41.707834

Access Issues: inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic: inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Marching Morons 5.9 A0 PG13 Aid
2 *** Westward Ha! 5.7 PG Unknown 170ft
3 Rags To Rich's 5.10 PG13 Unknown
4 *** Cruise Control 5.9 PG Unknown
5 * The High Traverse 5.5 PG Unknown
6 Recollectoin 5.8 G Unknown
7 The High Traverse Direct Finish 5.8 R Unknown
8 Rib Cracker 5.8 PG Unknown
9 The Last Waltz 5.11 R Unknown
10 Conflict Of Interest 5.9 R Unknown
11 ** Big Band Era 5.10+ PG13 Unknown
12 ** The King of Swing 5.11 G Unknown
13 ** White Corner 5.9 R Unknown
14 White Knuckles 5.11 Unknown
15 White Corner Variant 2 5.10+ Unknown
16 White Corner Variant 3 5.9 Unknown
17 ** White Rose 5.11 PG Unknown
18 ** High Plains Drifter 5.10 PG Unknown
19 High Plains Drifter Variant 5.8 Unknown
20 * Sudden Impact 5.12 R Unknown
21 Band Of Renown 5.10+ PG Unknown
22 * Schlemiel 5.10 PG Unknown
23 ** Square Meal 5.11 PG Unknown
24 *** Nectar Vector 5.12+ R Unknown
25 *** New Frontier 5.11 PG Unknown
26 New Frontier Gottlieb's Variation 5.10+ R Unknown
27 New Frontier Variation 5.9 PG Unknown
28 Back To The Land Of Movement 5.11 PG Unknown
29 *** Manifest Destiny 5.12 R Unknown
30 Manifest Destiny Original Line 5.11 Unknown
31 Land Grab 5.11 X Unknown
32 Land Grab Direct Start 5.11 X Unknown
33 ** Directpissima 5.11 PG13 Unknown
34 * In Search Of Lost Time 5.11 R Unknown
35 Time Being 5.10 R Unknown
36 Mission Improbable 5.10 PG Unknown
37 * Sweet Meat 5.9 PG Unknown
38 Super Sunday 5.10 PG Unknown
39 * Swinging Cunt 5.8 PG Unknown
40 Singing C 5.9 R Unknown
41 * Hang 'em High 5.11 PG13 Unknown
42 Bank Manager 5.10 PG Unknown
43 The CEO 5.10+ PG Unknown
44 Artistry In Rhythm 5.10 PG13 Unknown
45 The Tempest 5.10 R Unknown
46 * Side Pocket 5.9 PG Unknown
47 Writhe to the Occasion 5.7 Unknown
48 Leap Frog 5.10 PG Unknown
49 Danger UXB 5.10 PG13 Unknown
50 Explosive Bolts 5.11 PG13 Unknown
51 * Strange City 5.7 PG Unknown
52 * Strange City Variation 5.7 PG Unknown
53 ** Brown Bomber 5.10 R Unknown
54 Sing, Sing, Sing 5.10 PG Unknown
55 Nothing To Write Home About 5.8 PG Unknown
56 Three Buzzards 5.4 G Unknown
57 Insallah 5.9 PG Unknown
58 Garden Of Allah 5.10 PG Unknown
59 Pelvic Thrust 5.9 PG Unknown
60 Under The Wire 5.11 PG Unknown
61 * The Rappel Line 5.11 Unknown
62 The Enthizer 5.12 Unknown
63 Wire Wizard 5.8 R Unknown
64 *** The Time Eraser 5.10 PG Unknown
65 Promise Of Things To Come 5.11 R Unknown
66 The Good, The Bad And The Ugly 5.10 R Unknown
67 Remembrance Of Things Past 5.10 PG Unknown
68 The Future is Now 5.10 PG Unknown
69 I'd Walk a Mile To Not Be Senile 5.9 R Unknown
70 * Rings Of Saturn 5.11 X Unknown
71 Orbit Of Jupiter 5.9 R Unknown
72 Asteroid Belt 5.10 X Unknown
73 Asteroid Belt Variant 5.10+ PG Unknown
74 Search For Tomorrow 5.10 PG13 Unknown
75 Diaper Man 5.10 PG13 Unknown
76 Paral-Lax 5.11+ PG Unknown
77 ** Cuckoo Man 5.10 PG Unknown
78 ** Again And Again 5.7 PG13 Unknown
79 Never Again 5.11 PG13 Unknown
80 *** Happiness Is A 110 Degree Wall 5.12 G Unknown
81 Agent Orange 5.11 X Unknown
82 Birth Of The Blues 5.11 R Unknown
83 ** Bank Shot 5.11 PG Unknown
84 Blue Streak 5.9 X Unknown
85 Little Brown Jug 5.11 PG13 Unknown
86 * Realm Of The Fifth Class Climber 5.9 G Unknown 180ft
87 Delta Waves 5.10+ PG Unknown
88 Mood Indigo 5.9 PG Unknown
89 Bankrupt 5.8 R Unknown
90 * Old Route 5.5 G Unknown
91 Golden Years 5.7 PG Unknown
92 Apollo theater 5.9 PG Unknown
93 Prelude 5.9 PG Unknown
94 Fugue 5.9 PG Unknown
95 Let Go My Allegro 5.9 PG Unknown
96 Allegro 5.10 PG Unknown
97 Better Late Than Never 5.8 PG Unknown
98 Top Brass 5.9 PG Unknown
99 Face-Off 5.11 R Unknown
100 M32L 5.8 PG Unknown
101 Saucony 5.9 PG Unknown
102 Rubble Without ACause 5.14+ X Unknown
103 Raging Bull 5.10 PG Unknown
104 Presto 5.10 PG Unknown
105 Air For A G-String 5.6 PG Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.4 Three Buzzards Unknown
5.5 * Old Route Unknown
* The High Traverse Unknown
5.6 Air For A G-String Unknown
5.7 ** Again And Again Unknown
Golden Years Unknown
* Strange City Unknown
* Strange City Variation Unknown
*** Westward Ha! Unknown 170ft
Writhe to the Occasion Unknown
5.8 Bankrupt Unknown
Better Late Than Never Unknown
High Plains Drifter Variant Unknown
M32L Unknown
Nothing To Write Home About Unknown
Recollectoin Unknown
Rib Cracker Unknown
* Swinging Cunt Unknown
The High Traverse Direct Finish Unknown
Wire Wizard Unknown
5.9 Apollo theater Unknown
Blue Streak Unknown
Conflict Of Interest Unknown
*** Cruise Control Unknown
Fugue Unknown
I'd Walk a Mile To Not Be Senile Unknown
Insallah Unknown
Let Go My Allegro Unknown
Mood Indigo Unknown
New Frontier Variation Unknown
Orbit Of Jupiter Unknown
Pelvic Thrust Unknown
Prelude Unknown
* Realm Of The Fifth Class Climber Unknown 180ft
Saucony Unknown
* Side Pocket Unknown
Singing C Unknown
* Sweet Meat Unknown
Top Brass Unknown
** White Corner Unknown
White Corner Variant 3 Unknown
5.9 A0 * The Marching Morons Aid
5.10 Allegro Unknown
Artistry In Rhythm Unknown
Asteroid Belt Unknown
Bank Manager Unknown
** Brown Bomber Unknown
** Cuckoo Man Unknown
Danger UXB Unknown
Diaper Man Unknown
Garden Of Allah Unknown
** High Plains Drifter Unknown
Leap Frog Unknown
Mission Improbable Unknown
Presto Unknown
Raging Bull Unknown
Rags To Rich's Unknown
Remembrance Of Things Past Unknown
* Schlemiel Unknown
Search For Tomorrow Unknown
Sing, Sing, Sing Unknown
Super Sunday Unknown
The Future is Now Unknown
The Good, The Bad And The Ugly Unknown
The Tempest Unknown
*** The Time Eraser Unknown
Time Being Unknown
5.10+ Asteroid Belt Variant Unknown
Band Of Renown Unknown
** Big Band Era Unknown
Delta Waves Unknown
New Frontier Gottlieb's Variation Unknown
The CEO Unknown
White Corner Variant 2 Unknown
5.11 Agent Orange Unknown
Back To The Land Of Movement Unknown
** Bank Shot Unknown
Birth Of The Blues Unknown
** Directpissima Unknown
Explosive Bolts Unknown
Face-Off Unknown
* Hang 'em High Unknown
* In Search Of Lost Time Unknown
Land Grab Unknown
Land Grab Direct Start Unknown
Little Brown Jug Unknown
Manifest Destiny Original Line Unknown
Never Again Unknown
*** New Frontier Unknown
Promise Of Things To Come Unknown
* Rings Of Saturn Unknown
** Square Meal Unknown
** The King of Swing Unknown
The Last Waltz Unknown
* The Rappel Line Unknown
Under The Wire Unknown
White Knuckles Unknown
** White Rose Unknown
5.11+ Paral-Lax Unknown
5.12 *** Happiness Is A 110 Degree Wall Unknown
*** Manifest Destiny Unknown
* Sudden Impact Unknown
The Enthizer Unknown
5.12+ *** Nectar Vector Unknown
5.14+ Rubble Without ACause Unknown