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Access issues inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.8 ** Anna's Route Unknown 40ft
2
5.10 * Sound Barrier Unknown 45ft
3
5.3 * Carrot Face Unknown 33ft
4
5.6 * Bunk Arete Unknown 36ft
5
5.3 * Sleepwalking Unknown 36ft
6
5.3 Gimme 3 Steps Unknown
7
5.2 * Baby Steps Top rope
8
5.7 Hard-Boilded Unknown
9
5.3 Easy-Over Unknown
10
5.7 * Flapjack Unknown
11
5.6 * Popover Unknown
12
5.7 * Short Stacks Unknown
13
5.6 * Cheese Grits Unknown
14
5.4 * Cornflake Unknown
15
5.6 Little Wet Wall Unknown
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5.10b * Circuit Breaker Unknown
17
5.7 *** Reach Around Unknown

Climb up the dihedral-like area to a large roof and then go up and over on the right side. This is one of the few spots in Peterskill with fixed anchors at the top of the climb making for an easy set-up.

18
5.10a * Crack-A-Lack Unknown

Follow the crack up the face and then go over the small roof toward the right side.

19

Start at the large crack on the left under the overhang. Climb/stem up until you can move onto the arete. Then move right onto the face and find your way more or less straight up from there following a small crack.

20
5.8 ** Nutmaster Top rope 50ft

This climb starts scrambling up some boulders to the right. Ascend on the right face and then move left around the arete. Follow the crack up to the mantle and then straight up to the top.

There is an alternate start that goes directly to the crack from underneath the overhang, raising the grade to 5.10 or 5.11

This may be climbed Trad as well.

21
5.8 *** Dreaming of PJ Top rope 50ft

Scramble up and then climb up past the crux and into the corner under the roof. Traverse left and then out the top.

Trad or TR (if you're willing to take a big swing)

22
5.6 * Cool Hand Luke Unknown
23
5.6 ** Hustler Unknown 49ft
24
5.8 * Popcorn Unknown
25
5.6 Up a Tree Unknown
26
5.8 * Arete I Unknown
27
5.6 * Easy Rider Unknown
28
5.11 ** Sac's Fifth Avenue Unknown
29
5.8 Can he share? Unknown
30
5.8 * Can He Share? Unknown
32
5.8 * Cukoo Arete Unknown 52ft
33
5.11b ** The Land of The Lost Unknown 62ft
34
5.10a 1-800-Stick it Arete Unknown 59ft
36
5.9 The Yellow Wallpaper Unknown 62ft
37
5.8 ** Psycho Crack Left Unknown 62ft
38
5.8 ** Psycho Crack Right Unknown 62ft
39
5.8 Summer School Unknown
40
5.8 Pop Quiz Unknown
41
5.8 Dunces Corner Unknown
42
5.8 G * Scoop Arete Unknown 60ft
43
5.9 PG ** Scoop Face Unknown 60ft
44
5.7 ** Skink Unknown 66ft
45
5.7 * Skink Direct Unknown 50ft
46
5.9 * Skink Face Unknown 40ft
47
5.9 PG ** Stinky Americans Unknown
48
5.6 * Slot Machine Unknown 60ft
49
5.10b PG ** FickleFingers Unknown 60ft
50
5.9 G ** Golden Dream Unknown 50ft
51
5.9 ** Golden Dreams Unknown 40ft
52
V0 * Aquarian Moon Boulder
53
V1 Outbreak Roof Boulder
54
V0 Just say no Boulder
55
V4 Dagobah Boulder
57
V0 Exit Boulder
58
V1 * Fire Escape Boulder
59
V4 * Spew Harder Boulder
61
V0 * V-Bola Boulder
62
V0 * Loki Boulder
63
V1 * Tree-Bola Direct Boulder
64
V3 * Tree-Bola Boulder
65
66
V0 Whatever Boulder
67
V3 * VD Boulder
68
V1 * The Sidewalk Boulder

Areas

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Routes
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Grades
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Routes

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Grade Route
72
5.7 ** Night Owl Unknown
73
5.7 PJ Party Unknown
74
5.6 Slumber Party Unknown

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