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Table of contents

1. Peterskill 64 routes in Area

Unknown, Boulder and Top Rope

Long/Lat: -74.215805, 41.739644

Access Issues: inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic: inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Anna's Route 5.8 Unknown 40ft
2 * Sound Barrier 5.10 Unknown 45ft
3 Carrot Face 5.3 Unknown 33ft
4 Bunk Arete 5.6 Unknown 36ft
5 Sleepwalking 5.3 Unknown 36ft
6 Gimme 3 Steps 5.3 Unknown
7 Hard-Boilded 5.7 Unknown
8 Easy-Over 5.3 Unknown
9 Flapjack 5.7 Unknown
10 Popover 5.6 Unknown
11 Short Stacks 5.7 Unknown
12 Cheese Grits 5.6 Unknown
13 Cornflake 5.4 Unknown
14 Little Wet Wall 5.6 Unknown
15 A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man

Start at the large crack on the left under the overhang. Climb/stem up until you can move onto the arete. Then move right onto the face and find your way more or less straight up from there following a small crack.

5.8 Top rope 49ft
16 ** Nutmaster

This climb starts scrambling up some boulders to the right. Ascend on the right face and then move left around the arete. Follow the crack up to the mantle and then straight up to the top.

There is an alternate start that goes directly to the crack from underneath the overhang, raising the grade to 5.10 or 5.11

This may be climbed Trad as well.

5.8 Top rope 50ft
17 ** Dreaming of PJ

Scramble up and then climb up past the crux and into the corner under the roof. Traverse left and then out the top.

Trad or TR (if you're willing to take a big swing)

5.8 Top rope 50ft
18 Cool Hand Luke 5.6 Unknown
19 Hustler 5.6 Unknown 49ft
20 Popcorn 5.8 Unknown
21 Up a Tree 5.6 Unknown
22 Arete I 5.8 Unknown
23 Easy Rider 5.6 Unknown
24 * Sac's Fifth Avenue 5.11 Unknown
25 Can he share? 5.8 Unknown
26 Can He Share? 5.8 Unknown
27 Pencel & Johnny's Arete 5.9 Unknown
28 Cukoo Arete 5.8 Unknown 52ft
29 The Land of The Lost 5.11b Unknown 62ft
30 1-800-Stick it Arete 5.10a Unknown 59ft
31 It Ain't All Its Cracked Up to Be 5.8 Unknown 59ft
32 The Yellow Wallpaper 5.9 Unknown 62ft
33 Psycho Crack Left 5.8 Unknown 62ft
34 Psycho Crack Right 5.8 Unknown 62ft
35 Summer School 5.8 Unknown
36 Pop Quiz 5.8 Unknown
37 Dunces Corner 5.8 Unknown
38 Scoop Arete 5.8 G Unknown 60ft
39 Scoop Face 5.9 PG Unknown 60ft
40 * Skink 5.7 Unknown 66ft
41 Skink Direct 5.7 Unknown 50ft
42 * Skink Face 5.9 Unknown 40ft
43 Stinky Americans 5.9 PG Unknown
44 Slot Machine 5.6 Unknown 60ft
45 ** FickleFingers 5.10b PG Unknown 60ft
46 *** Golden Dream 5.9 G Unknown 50ft
47 ** Golden Dreams 5.9 Unknown 40ft
48 Aquarian Moon V0 Boulder
49 Outbreak Roof V1 Boulder
50 Just say no V0 Boulder
51 Dagobah V4 Boulder
52 RX Do it over the counter V0 Boulder
53 Exit V0 Boulder
54 * Fire Escape V1 Boulder
55 * Spew Harder V4 Boulder
56 The Sidewalk Abbreviated V0 Boulder
57 * V-Bola V0 Boulder
58 Loki V0 Boulder
59 * Tree-Bola Direct V1 Boulder
60 * Tree-Bola V3 Boulder
61 * Take it Easy Wally V1 Boulder
62 Whatever V0 Boulder
63 VD V3 Boulder
64 * The Sidewalk V1 Boulder

1.1. Khadejha Area 0 routes in Area

1.2. Terror Dome 0 routes in Area

1.3. End of East Cliff 0 routes in Area

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.3 Carrot Face Unknown 33ft
Easy-Over Unknown
Gimme 3 Steps Unknown
Sleepwalking Unknown 36ft
5.4 Cornflake Unknown
5.6 Bunk Arete Unknown 36ft
Cheese Grits Unknown
Cool Hand Luke Unknown
Easy Rider Unknown
Hustler Unknown 49ft
Little Wet Wall Unknown
Popover Unknown
Slot Machine Unknown 60ft
Up a Tree Unknown
5.7 Flapjack Unknown
Hard-Boilded Unknown
Short Stacks Unknown
* Skink Unknown 66ft
Skink Direct Unknown 50ft
5.8 A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man Top rope 49ft
** Anna's Route Unknown 40ft
Arete I Unknown
Can He Share? Unknown
Can he share? Unknown
Cukoo Arete Unknown 52ft
** Dreaming of PJ Top rope 50ft
Dunces Corner Unknown
It Ain't All Its Cracked Up to Be Unknown 59ft
** Nutmaster Top rope 50ft
Pop Quiz Unknown
Popcorn Unknown
Psycho Crack Left Unknown 62ft
Psycho Crack Right Unknown 62ft
Scoop Arete Unknown 60ft
Summer School Unknown
V0 Aquarian Moon Boulder
Exit Boulder
Just say no Boulder
Loki Boulder
RX Do it over the counter Boulder
The Sidewalk Abbreviated Boulder
* V-Bola Boulder
Whatever Boulder
5.9 *** Golden Dream Unknown 50ft
** Golden Dreams Unknown 40ft
Pencel & Johnny's Arete Unknown
Scoop Face Unknown 60ft
* Skink Face Unknown 40ft
Stinky Americans Unknown
The Yellow Wallpaper Unknown 62ft
5.10a 1-800-Stick it Arete Unknown 59ft
5.10b ** FickleFingers Unknown 60ft
V1 * Fire Escape Boulder
Outbreak Roof Boulder
* Take it Easy Wally Boulder
* The Sidewalk Boulder
* Tree-Bola Direct Boulder
5.10 * Sound Barrier Unknown 45ft
5.11b The Land of The Lost Unknown 62ft
V3 * Tree-Bola Boulder
VD Boulder
5.11 * Sac's Fifth Avenue Unknown
V4 Dagobah Boulder
* Spew Harder Boulder