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Access issues inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.7 R Friday The 13th Trad
2
5.6 PG Fancy Idiot Trad 120ft
3
5.4 G ** Bunny Trad 140ft

FA: Ann Church & Kris Raubenheimer, 1955

4
5.6 G * Bunny's Roof Trad 140ft

This is a 5.6 Variation to Bunny, which generally follows the same line except you go through the roof instead of around.

5
5.10 PG Retro-Bunny Trad
6
5.10 PG *** Retribution Trad

There is a two bolt anchor at the top.

8
5.10 PG *** Nosedive Trad
9
5.5 G Double Chin Trad 140ft
10
5.10 PG Something Scary Trad
11
5.6 PG Eyebrow Trad
12
5.9 G Double Clutch Trad

FA: Dick Williams, John Hudson & Pete Geiser

13
5.8 A3 Ralph's Climb Aid
14
5.11+ G Doug's Roof Trad
15
5.7 PG The Bridal Path Trad
16
5.9 G Lower Eaves Trad
17
5.8 R Upper Eaves Trad
18
5.9 PG Upper Upper Eaves Trad
19
5.5 G *** Horseman Trad 150ft

FA: Hans Kraus & Fritz Wiessner

20
5.9 PG ** Apoplexy Trad
21
5.10 R ** Coronary Trad
22
5.6 PG * Pony Express Trad
23
5.0 G Dirty Chimney Trad
24
5.4 * Roger's Dad Trad

FA: Fred Mitchell & Shay, 2004

25
5.9 PG * Junior Trad
26
5.7 G ** Laurel Trad 50ft

FA: Thornton Read, Norton Smithe & Lester Germer

27
5.7 PG Clover Trad
28
5.6 G * Rhododendron Trad 80ft

FA: Dick Bonker & George Lewis

30
5.3 PG Das Wiggles Trad
31
5.11 PG Shitty Mitty Trad
32
5.8 PG Mitty Mouse Trad
33
5.8 PG Walter Mitty Trad
34
5.11 G Low Exposure Trad
35
5.1 G Jiggles Trad
36
5.4 PG Squiggles Trad 50ft
37
5.10 R ** Squiggles Direct Trad 49ft
38
5.11 R Squiggles Redirect Trad
39
5.9 R Dislocation Trad
40
5.10 R * Jacob's Ladder Trad 49ft
41
5.8 R No Pro Trad
42
5.12 Devine Wind Trad
43
5.5 G Greasy Kid Stuff Trad
44
5.6 PG Crowberry Ridge Trad
46
5.11 PG ** Trashcan Overhang Top rope
47
5.12 Trashcan Direct Trad
49
5.11 R Susie A Trad
50
5.1 PG The Flake Trad
51
5.7 G ** Ken's Crack Trad 50ft

FA: Ken Prestrud & Lucien Warner

52
5.10+ R Phoebe Trad
53
5.11 Freebie Trad
54
5.4 PG Boston Trad 50ft
55
5.7 X Fitschen's Folly Trad 50ft
56
5.10 R Charlie Trad
57
5.10+ PG Alphabet Arete (AA) Trad
58
5.10 R DD Route Trad
59
5.7 PG * CC Route Trad 59ft
60
5.8 CC Route Variation Trad 60ft
61
5.8 G BB Route Trad
62
5.4 G The Star Route Trad
63
5.0 G Crimson Corner Trad
64
5.3 G Yale Trad
65
5.6 G Eyesore Trad 98ft
67
5.3 G Harvard Trad 82ft
68
5.7 G Trapped Like A Rat Trad 82ft
69
5.12 PG Silly Dickin' Trad
70
5.10 PG *** Stirrup Trouble Trad
71
5.12 The Mohel Trad
72
5.11 G Stirrup Variaiton Trad
74
5.9 P-38 Variation Trad
75
Class 4 Radcliffe Trad 82ft
76
5.10 PG Badcliffe Trad
77
5.5 G * Dennis Trad 140ft

FA: Gardiner, Mary Perry & Ann Buffin

78
5.4 PG Belly Roll Trad 150ft

FA: Goug Kerr & Norton Smithe

79
5.2 PG Roddey Trad 110ft
80
5.10 R Slightly Roddey Trad
81
5.11+ Roddey Variation Trad
82
5.8 PG Daydream Trad
83
84
5.5 G ** Jackie Trad 130ft
85
5.9 PG Jasmine Trad
86
5.7 G ** Classic Trad 160ft

FA: Mike Borghoff & Brownell Bergen

87
5.8 PG Classy Trad
88
5.8 G ** Pink Laurel Trad 190ft
89
5.6 PG Triple Bypass Trad
93
5.11 PG A-Gape Trad
94
5.8 R * Ape Call Trad
95
5.9 PG Bumwad Trad
96
5.9 PG Ape And Essence Trad
97
5.8 PG Jane Trad
98
5.5 G RMC Trad 200ft
99
5.7 PG * Raubenheimer Special Trad 150ft
101
5.3 G * Betty Trad 160ft

FA: Betty Woolsey & Fritz Wiessner

102
5.9 R * The Blackout Trad
103
5.12 PG13 The Late Show Trad
104
5.11 R Kinky Claw Trad
105
5.10+ G ** Matinee Trad
106
5.11 PG Creature Features Trad
107
5.5 G Big Chimney Trad 180ft
108
5.6 G Miss Bailey Trad 3
110
5.10+ G Disco Death March Trad
111
5.9 PG Fetus Trad
112
5.6 G ** Baby Trad 160ft

FA: Fritz Wiessner, Mary Cecil & Betty Woolsey

113
5.8 G Twisted Sister Trad
114
5.2 G ** Easy Overhang (aka Easy O) Trad 130ft
116
5.5 PG ** Easy Baby Trad

FA: Bill Shockley & Steve Jervis

117
5.4 G Indecent Exposure Trad
118
5.9 R Queasy O Trad
119
5.8 G *** Son Of Easy O Trad 160ft 2

FA: Jim McCarthy & Al DeMaria

120
5.9 R Heather Trad
121
5.8 PG ** Pas De Deux Trad 170ft
123
5.9 PG Patty Duke Trad
124
5.7 G * City Lights Trad 170ft
125
5.5 G *** Frog's Head Trad 170ft

FA: Fritz Wiessner & Lorens Logan

127
5.9 PG Sundown Trad
128
5.6 PG ** Maria Trad 250ft

FA: Maria Millar & Fritz Wiessner

129
5.9 G ** Maria Direct Trad
130
5.11 R * Maria Redirect Trad
131
5.12 R Kama Sutra Trad
132
5.8 PG Sultana Trad
133
5.7 PG Scungilli Trad
134
135
5.9 PG * Jean Trad
136
5.9 PG * Precarious Perch Trad
137
5.4 * Sixish Trad 190ft

FA: Hans Kraus & Dick Hirschland

140
5.7 PG ** Drunkard's Delight Trad
141
5.10+ R Five Tendons Trad
142
5.8 PG * Morning After Trad
143
5.7 PG Bloody Mary Trad 250ft

FA: Walter Bauman, Dick Williams & and Cherry Merritt

145
5.4 G Rusty Trifle Trad 250ft
147
5.9 G Arc Of A Diver Trad
148
5.9 PG Rock And Brew Trad
150
5.10 PG Crusty Waffles Trad
151
5.9 G Trusty Rifle Trad
152

FA: p2 Dick Dumais & John Stannard

153
5.8 PG Uncle Rudy Trad
154
5.6 G * Wrist Trad 230ft