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Table of contents

1. McCarthy Wall 67 routes in Area

Mostly Unknown
Access Issues: inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic: inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Glypnod 5.8 G Unknown
2 Yesterday's Lemonade 5.10 R Unknown
3 * Anguish 5.8 PG Unknown
4 Ruby Saturday 5.9 PG Unknown
5 Simple Ceilings 5.5 PG Unknown
6 Raspberry Sundae 5.9 PG Unknown
7 ** Three Pines 5.3 G Trad 200ft
8 ** The Dangler 5.9 G Unknown
9 ** Three Pines Variation 5.6 Unknown
10 Something Boring 5.9 X Unknown
11 Something Or Other 5.10 PG Unknown
12 *** Something Interesting 5.7 G Unknown
13 Still crazy after all these years

FA: S. Angelini, A. Rubin, A. Juncusa

5.10b Unknown 79ft
14 ** Higher Stannard 5.9 PG Unknown
15 ** Birdie Party 5.10 PG Unknown
16 Interstice 5.10+ PG Unknown
17 ** Mother's Day Party 5.10 PG Unknown
18 *** MF 5.9 G Unknown
19 Water King 5.10+ R Unknown
20 Men At Arms 5.10 PG13 Unknown
21 Men At Arms Direct 5.10+ R Unknown
22 * Try Again 5.10 PG Unknown
23 ** Fly Again 5.11+ R Unknown
24 *** Coexistence 5.10+ PG Unknown
25 ** Star Action 5.10+ PG Unknown
26 ** Graveyard Shift 5.11 PG Unknown
27 Don't Shift 5.11+ Unknown
28 ** Tough Shift 5.10 PG13 Unknown
29 Tough Shift Variation 5.11 PG Unknown
30 * Overhanging Layback 5.7 PG Unknown 260ft
31 No Existence 5.9 R Unknown
32 * Scene Of The Climb 5.11 G Unknown
33 * Land's End 5.9 PG Unknown
34 Land's End Variation 5.10 Unknown
35 Land Ho! 5.9 PG Unknown
36 The Jane Fonda Workout 5.12 Unknown
37 Organic Iron 5.12+ PG Unknown
38 Impenetrable Ceilings 5.11 PG Unknown
39 Scotch On The Rocks 5.10 G Unknown
40 * Dry Martini 5.7 G Unknown 330ft
41 * Tequila Mockingbird 5.7 G Unknown
42 PT Phone Home 5.10+ PG Unknown
43 Tits Like Orange Fireballs 5.11 PG Unknown
44 Co-op 5.9 PG Unknown
45 Co-op Direct 5.10 PG13 Unknown
46 Fall From Grace 5.11 PG Unknown
47 ** Welcome To The Gunks 5.10 PG13 Unknown
48 Laughing Man 5.10 PG Unknown
49 Tree's A Crowd 5.9 G Unknown
50 * Credibility Gap

FA: Jim McCarthy, Joe Kelsey, and Dick Williams

5.6 G Unknown 150ft
51 * Asphodel 5.5 G Unknown
52 Beatle Brow Bulge 5.9 PG Unknown
53 Blueberry Wine 5.11 PG13 Unknown
54 Blueberry Ledges 5.4 PG Unknown
55 Seldom Mustard, Never Relish 5.10 G Unknown
56 *** Beginner's Delight

FA: Hans Kraus Roger & Del Wolcott

5.3 PG Trad 260ft
57 Octoberfest 5.8 R Unknown
58 ** Snooky's Return

FA: Jim McCarthy and Dave Craft

5.8 G Unknown
59 * Friends And Lovers

FA: Ron Sacks, Anne Dubats, Mike Sawicky, and Rick Cronk

5.9 R Unknown
60 Snooky's Departure 5.7 R Unknown
61 * Minty 5.3 G Unknown 230ft
62 * Minty Overhang 5.5 G Unknown
63 Bag's End 5.8 PG Unknown
64 Tipsy Trees 5.3 G Unknown
65 The Womb Step 5.7 PG Unknown
66 Womb For Went 5.9 PG Unknown
67 Womb with a View 5.8 Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.3 *** Beginner's Delight Trad 260ft
* Minty Unknown 230ft
** Three Pines Trad 200ft
Tipsy Trees Unknown
5.4 Blueberry Ledges Unknown
5.5 * Asphodel Unknown
* Minty Overhang Unknown
Simple Ceilings Unknown
5.6 * Credibility Gap Unknown 150ft
** Three Pines Variation Unknown
5.7 * Dry Martini Unknown 330ft
* Overhanging Layback Unknown 260ft
Snooky's Departure Unknown
*** Something Interesting Unknown
* Tequila Mockingbird Unknown
The Womb Step Unknown
5.8 * Anguish Unknown
Bag's End Unknown
* Glypnod Unknown
Octoberfest Unknown
** Snooky's Return Unknown
Womb with a View Unknown
5.9 Beatle Brow Bulge Unknown
Co-op Unknown
* Friends And Lovers Unknown
** Higher Stannard Unknown
Land Ho! Unknown
* Land's End Unknown
*** MF Unknown
No Existence Unknown
Raspberry Sundae Unknown
Ruby Saturday Unknown
Something Boring Unknown
** The Dangler Unknown
Tree's A Crowd Unknown
Womb For Went Unknown
5.10b Still crazy after all these years Unknown 79ft
5.10 ** Birdie Party Unknown
Co-op Direct Unknown
Land's End Variation Unknown
Laughing Man Unknown
Men At Arms Unknown
** Mother's Day Party Unknown
Scotch On The Rocks Unknown
Seldom Mustard, Never Relish Unknown
Something Or Other Unknown
** Tough Shift Unknown
* Try Again Unknown
** Welcome To The Gunks Unknown
Yesterday's Lemonade Unknown
5.10+ *** Coexistence Unknown
Interstice Unknown
Men At Arms Direct Unknown
PT Phone Home Unknown
** Star Action Unknown
Water King Unknown
5.11 Blueberry Wine Unknown
Fall From Grace Unknown
** Graveyard Shift Unknown
Impenetrable Ceilings Unknown
* Scene Of The Climb Unknown
Tits Like Orange Fireballs Unknown
Tough Shift Variation Unknown
5.11+ Don't Shift Unknown
** Fly Again Unknown
5.12 The Jane Fonda Workout Unknown
5.12+ Organic Iron Unknown