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Access issues inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.5 PG ** Hawk Trad 230ft

FA: Willie Crowther, Gardner & Marry Perry

2
5.9 PG Chimango Unknown
3
5.8 PG Peregrine Unknown
4
5.10 G Reach Of Faith Unknown
5
5.2 G ** Southern Pillar Unknown
7
5.9 G Columbia Unknown
8
5.9 Columbia Variation Unknown
9
5.6 G *** Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst Trad 230ft 3

FA: Hans Kraus & Harry Snyder

11
5.10 PG * G Forces Unknown
12
5.10 G G Forces Variation Unknown
13
5.7 PG13 ** Mr. P's Wurst Unknown
14
5.2 G * Northern Pillar Unknown 230ft

FA: Hans Kraus & Susan Simon

15
5.5 G Fingerlocks or Cedar Box Unknown 60ft
16
5.8 G Cemetery Wall Unknown
17
5.9 G *** Le Teton Unknown
18
5.8 PG * Hyjek's Horror Unknown 60ft

FA: Mike Hyjek & John Lomont

19
5.3 PG Twin Oaks Unknown
20
5.5 G Triple Bulges Unknown
21
5.9 PG Delusions Of Grandeur Unknown
22
5.2 G Willie's Weep Unknown
23
5.6 G Don't Shoot Unknown
24
5.7 PG Lat-on The Season Unknown
25
5.8 R Gleet Street Unknown
26
5.5 PG Funny Face Unknown
27
5.6 PG Son Of Bitchy Virgin Unknown
28
5.6 PG Immaculate Conception Unknown
29
5.6 PG Bitchy Virgin Unknown
30
5.2 PG Unnamed 1 Unknown
31
5.10 PG * Dis-Mantle Unknown
32
5.10 PG * Dat-Mantle Unknown
33
5.8 PG Kernmantle Unknown
34
5.9 PG * High Times Unknown
36
5.8 PG Osteo-Path Unknown
37
5.8 PG ** Raunchy Unknown
38
5.9 PG13 ** Wild Horses Unknown
39
5.8 G Gory Thumb Unknown
40
41
5.9 G Badfinger Unknown
42
5.9 PG Sword of Damocles Unknown
43
5.7 G Sort of Damocles Unknown
44
5.11+ PG * HELP! Unknown
45
5.12 PG PLEH! Unknown
46
5.7 G ** V-3 Unknown 98ft

FA: Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud & and Bonnie Prudden

47
5.9 PG * Galactic Hitchhikers Unknown
48
5.7 * V-3 Direct Unknown
49
5.10b G * City Streets Unknown 200ft

FA: John Stannard & Pat Milligan

50
5.10 PG ** Country Roads Unknown
51
5.11 PG * Metropolis Unknown
52
5.9 PG ** Commando Rave Unknown
53
5.9 R Un-Appealing Ceiling Unknown
54
5.10 PG ** Balrog Unknown
56
5.12 R * Bullfrong Unknown
58
5.8 PG Dry Heaves Unknown
59
5.7 PG ** Alley Oop Unknown
60
5.10+ PG * Cheap Thrills Unknown
61
5.11 R Deep Chills Unknown
62
5.7 G * Cakewalk Unknown
63
5.10 R Nurdland Unknown
64
5.9 PG ** Turdland Unknown
66
5.9 G * Triangle Unknown
67
5.9 PG Triangle Variation Unknown
68
5.10 R Never More Unknown
69
5.9 PG Never Better Unknown
70
5.10 PG *** Never Say Never Unknown
71
5.10- *** Never Never Land Unknown 100ft

FA: FA: Art Gran, Dave Craft, and Jim McCarthy, FFA: Jim McCarthy & George Hurley

72
5.10 PG J'Accuse Unknown
73
5.10 X Welcome To My Nightmare Unknown
74
5.8 PG ** Absurdland Trad

FA: Jim McCarthy & George Bloom

75
5.9 R Blunderbus Unknown
76
5.6 G Wise Crack Trad

FA: Art Gran & Pete "The Greek" Vlachos

77
5.9 R Wiseland Unknown
78
5.8 PG * Wonderland Trad
79
5.9 R Wonderland Variation Unknown
80
5.8 PG Faithless Journey Unknown
81
5.7 PG ** Middle Earth Trad 260ft

FA: Joe Kelsey & Roman Laba

82
5.7 G Rhun Unknown
83
5.8 G * Bombs Away Dream Baby Unknown
84
5.10 G Journey's End Unknown
85
5.2 G Red's Ruin Unknown
86
Class 4 Pigeon And Smegma Garden Unknown
87
5.5 G Snowpatch Unknown
88
5.6 R Pigpen Unknown
89
5.7 PG ** Thin Slabs Unknown
90
5.8 PG ** Sente Trad
91
5.10 Yenta Unknown
93
5.11 PG * On Any Monday Unknown
94
5.7 G Snake Unknown
95
5.8 G Just Like Bayards Unknown
96
5.8 PG Talus Of Powder Unknown
97
5.7 R Steep Hikin' Unknown
98
5.9 PG Red's Arete Unknown
99
5.4 G * Red Pillar Unknown 200ft
100
5.10 R * Deep Lichen Unknown
101
5.9 PG Hawkeye Unknown
102
5.9 PG *** Three Doves Trad 230ft
103
5.8 PG *** Annie Oh! Trad 220ft

FA: Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill, Rod Swartz & and Maury Jaffe

104
5.9 PG Road Less Travelled Unknown
105
5.7 PG Scimitar Unknown
106
5.7 G *** Limelight Unknown 170ft

FA: Dick Williams & Art Gran

107
5.8 G *** Arrow Unknown 200ft

FA: Willie Crowther & Gardiner Perry

108
5.9 PG Quiver Unknown
109
5.10+ PG Quiver Variation Unknown
111
5.9 PG Cold Turkeys Unknown
112
5.9 PG Cold Turkeys Variation Unknown
113
5.10 PG13 * Nurse's Aid Unknown
114
5.12 PG ** Supper's Ready Unknown
115
5.7 PG ** Han's Puss Unknown
116
5.10+ PG Fast Food Unknown
117
5.10 PG ** The Feast Of Fools Unknown
118
119
5.10b *** Feast of Fools Unknown
120
5.9 PG * Proctoscope Unknown
121
5.8 PG Snagglepuss Unknown
122
5.9 PG Proctor-Silex Unknown
123
5.7 PG ** Silhoutte Unknown
124
125
5.11 PG ** Man's Quest For Flight Unknown
126
5.11+ X Skeletal Remains Unknown
127
5.8 PG * Traverse Of The Clods Unknown
128
5.13 R The Zone Unknown
129
5.6 A2 G ** Twilight Zone Aid
130
5.4 PG ** Andrew Trad 230ft

FA: Hans Kraus, Fritz Wiessner & and Bonnie Prudden

131
5.8 PG Moby Dick Unknown
132
Class 4 Goldner's Grunge Unknown
133
5.10 PG Android Unknown
134
5.9 G Amber Waves Of Pain Unknown
135
5.9 G Three Vultures Unknown
136
5.10 PG Three Vultures Variation Unknown
137
5.10 PG ** Face To Face Unknown
138
5.9 G * No Glow Unknown
139
5.10+ PG Shell Shock Unknown
140
5.9 PG Keep On Struttin' Unknown
141
5.11 PG Wop Stop Unknown
142
5.7 *** Hans Puss Unknown