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Table of contents

1. Guides' Wall 142 routes in Area

Mostly Unknown
Access Issues: inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic: inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Hawk

FA: Willie Crowther, Gardner and Marry Perry

5.5 PG Trad 230ft
2 Chimango 5.9 PG Unknown
3 Peregrine 5.8 PG Unknown
4 Reach Of Faith 5.10 G Unknown
5 ** Southern Pillar 5.2 G Unknown
6 Southern Pillar Direct Finish 5.7 PG Unknown
7 Columbia 5.9 G Unknown
8 Columbia Variation 5.9 Unknown
9 *** Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst

FA: Hans Kraus and Harry Snyder

5.6 G Trad 230ft 3
10 Madame Grunnebaum's Sorrow 5.8 PG Unknown
11 * G Forces 5.10 PG Unknown
12 G Forces Variation 5.10 G Unknown
13 ** Mr. P's Wurst 5.7 PG13 Unknown
14 * Northern Pillar

FA: Hans Kraus and Susan Simon

5.2 G Unknown 230ft
15 Fingerlocks or Cedar Box 5.5 G Unknown 60ft
16 Cemetery Wall 5.8 G Unknown
17 *** Le Teton 5.9 G Unknown
18 * Hyjek's Horror

FA: Mike Hyjek and John Lomont

5.8 PG Unknown 60ft
19 Twin Oaks 5.3 PG Unknown
20 Triple Bulges 5.5 G Unknown
21 Delusions Of Grandeur 5.9 PG Unknown
22 Willie's Weep 5.2 G Unknown
23 Don't Shoot 5.6 G Unknown
24 Lat-on The Season 5.7 PG Unknown
25 Gleet Street 5.8 R Unknown
26 Funny Face 5.5 PG Unknown
27 Son Of Bitchy Virgin 5.6 PG Unknown
28 Immaculate Conception 5.6 PG Unknown
29 Bitchy Virgin 5.6 PG Unknown
30 Unnamed 1 5.2 PG Unknown
31 * Dis-Mantle 5.10 PG Unknown
32 * Dat-Mantle 5.10 PG Unknown
33 Kernmantle 5.8 PG Unknown
34 * High Times 5.9 PG Unknown
35 Stop The Presses Mr. Williams 5.8 PG Unknown
36 Osteo-Path 5.8 PG Unknown
37 ** Raunchy 5.8 PG Unknown
38 ** Wild Horses 5.9 PG13 Unknown
39 Gory Thumb 5.8 G Unknown
40 Everybody Needs Thumbody 5.9 PG Unknown
41 Badfinger 5.9 G Unknown
42 Sword of Damocles 5.9 PG Unknown
43 Sort of Damocles 5.7 G Unknown
44 * HELP! 5.11+ PG Unknown
45 PLEH! 5.12 PG Unknown
46 ** V-3

FA: Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, and Bonnie Prudden

5.7 G Unknown 98ft
47 * Galactic Hitchhikers 5.9 PG Unknown
48 * V-3 Direct 5.7 Unknown
49 * City Streets

FA: John Stannard and Pat Milligan

5.10b G Unknown 200ft
50 ** Country Roads 5.10 PG Unknown
51 * Metropolis 5.11 PG Unknown
52 ** Commando Rave 5.9 PG Unknown
53 Un-Appealing Ceiling 5.9 R Unknown
54 ** Balrog 5.10 PG Unknown
55 Balrog Escape (Bridge of Khaza-dum) 5.9 PG Unknown
56 * Bullfrong 5.12 R Unknown
57 Sheep Thrills (aka Blind Alley) 5.9 PG13 Unknown
58 Dry Heaves 5.8 PG Unknown
59 ** Alley Oop 5.7 PG Unknown
60 * Cheap Thrills 5.10+ PG Unknown
61 Deep Chills 5.11 R Unknown
62 * Cakewalk 5.7 G Unknown
63 Nurdland 5.10 R Unknown
64 ** Turdland 5.9 PG Unknown
65 Turdland, The Original Aid Line 5.10+ G Unknown
66 * Triangle 5.9 G Unknown
67 Triangle Variation 5.9 PG Unknown
68 Never More 5.10 R Unknown
69 Never Better 5.9 PG Unknown
70 *** Never Say Never 5.10 PG Unknown
71 *** Never Never Land

FA: FA: Art Gran, Dave Craft, and Jim McCarthy, FFA: Jim McCarthy and George Hurley

5.10- Unknown 100ft
72 J'Accuse 5.10 PG Unknown
73 Welcome To My Nightmare 5.10 X Unknown
74 ** Absurdland

FA: Jim McCarthy and George Bloom

5.8 PG Trad
75 Blunderbus 5.9 R Unknown
76 Wise Crack

FA: Art Gran and Pete "The Greek" Vlachos

5.6 G Trad
77 Wiseland 5.9 R Unknown
78 * Wonderland 5.8 PG Trad
79 Wonderland Variation 5.9 R Unknown
80 Faithless Journey 5.8 PG Unknown
81 ** Middle Earth

FA: Joe Kelsey and Roman Laba

5.7 PG Trad 260ft
82 Rhun 5.7 G Unknown
83 * Bombs Away Dream Baby 5.8 G Unknown
84 Journey's End 5.10 G Unknown
85 Red's Ruin 5.2 G Unknown
86 Pigeon And Smegma Garden Class 4 Unknown
87 Snowpatch 5.5 G Unknown
88 Pigpen 5.6 R Unknown
89 ** Thin Slabs 5.7 PG Unknown
90 ** Sente 5.8 PG Trad
91 Yenta 5.10 Unknown
92 ** Thin Slabs Variation 5.7 Trad
93 * On Any Monday 5.11 PG Unknown
94 Snake 5.7 G Unknown
95 Just Like Bayards 5.8 G Unknown
96 Talus Of Powder 5.8 PG Unknown
97 Steep Hikin' 5.7 R Unknown
98 Red's Arete 5.9 PG Unknown
99 * Red Pillar 5.4 G Unknown 200ft
100 * Deep Lichen 5.10 R Unknown
101 Hawkeye 5.9 PG Unknown
102 *** Three Doves 5.9 PG Trad 230ft
103 *** Annie Oh!

FA: Ivan Rezucha, Annie O'Neill, Rod Swartz, and Maury Jaffe

5.8 PG Trad 220ft
104 Road Less Travelled 5.9 PG Unknown
105 Scimitar 5.7 PG Unknown
106 *** Limelight

FA: Dick Williams and Art Gran

5.7 G Trad 170ft
107 *** Arrow

FA: Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry

5.8 G Trad 200ft
108 Quiver 5.9 PG Unknown
109 Quiver Variation 5.10+ PG Unknown
110 * Easy Verschneidung (aka Easy V) 5.2 G Trad
111 Cold Turkeys 5.9 PG Unknown
112 Cold Turkeys Variation 5.9 PG Unknown
113 * Nurse's Aid 5.10 PG13 Unknown
114 ** Supper's Ready 5.12 PG Unknown
115 ** Han's Puss 5.7 PG Unknown
116 Fast Food 5.10+ PG Unknown
117 ** The Feast Of Fools 5.10 PG Unknown
118 Too Old To Know Better 5.8 R Unknown
119 *** Feast of Fools 5.10b Unknown
120 * Proctoscope 5.9 PG Unknown
121 Snagglepuss 5.8 PG Unknown
122 Proctor-Silex 5.9 PG Unknown
123 ** Silhoutte 5.7 PG Unknown
124 Silhoutte Variation 5.8 Unknown
125 ** Man's Quest For Flight 5.11 PG Unknown
126 Skeletal Remains 5.11+ X Unknown
127 * Traverse Of The Clods 5.8 PG Unknown
128 The Zone 5.13 R Unknown
129 ** Twilight Zone 5.6 A2 G Aid
130 ** Andrew

FA: Hans Kraus, Fritz Wiessner, and Bonnie Prudden

5.4 PG Trad 230ft
131 Moby Dick 5.8 PG Unknown
132 Goldner's Grunge Class 4 Unknown
133 Android 5.10 PG Unknown
134 Amber Waves Of Pain 5.9 G Unknown
135 Three Vultures 5.9 G Unknown
136 Three Vultures Variation 5.10 PG Unknown
137 ** Face To Face 5.10 PG Unknown
138 * No Glow 5.9 G Unknown
139 Shell Shock 5.10+ PG Unknown
140 Keep On Struttin' 5.9 PG Unknown
141 Wop Stop 5.11 PG Unknown
142 *** Hans Puss 5.7 Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
Class 4 Goldner's Grunge Unknown
Pigeon And Smegma Garden Unknown
5.2 * Easy Verschneidung (aka Easy V) Trad
* Northern Pillar Unknown 230ft
Red's Ruin Unknown
** Southern Pillar Unknown
Unnamed 1 Unknown
Willie's Weep Unknown
5.3 Twin Oaks Unknown
5.4 ** Andrew Trad 230ft
* Red Pillar Unknown 200ft
5.5 Fingerlocks or Cedar Box Unknown 60ft
Funny Face Unknown
** Hawk Trad 230ft
Snowpatch Unknown
Triple Bulges Unknown
5.6 Bitchy Virgin Unknown
Don't Shoot Unknown
Immaculate Conception Unknown
*** Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst Trad 230ft 3
Pigpen Unknown
Son Of Bitchy Virgin Unknown
Wise Crack Trad
5.6 A2 ** Twilight Zone Aid
5.7 ** Alley Oop Unknown
* Cakewalk Unknown
** Han's Puss Unknown
*** Hans Puss Unknown
Lat-on The Season Unknown
*** Limelight Trad 170ft
** Middle Earth Trad 260ft
** Mr. P's Wurst Unknown
Rhun Unknown
Scimitar Unknown
** Silhoutte Unknown
Snake Unknown
Sort of Damocles Unknown
Southern Pillar Direct Finish Unknown
Steep Hikin' Unknown
** Thin Slabs Unknown
** Thin Slabs Variation Trad
** V-3 Unknown 98ft
* V-3 Direct Unknown
5.8 ** Absurdland Trad
*** Annie Oh! Trad 220ft
*** Arrow Trad 200ft
* Bombs Away Dream Baby Unknown
Cemetery Wall Unknown
Dry Heaves Unknown
Faithless Journey Unknown
Gleet Street Unknown
Gory Thumb Unknown
* Hyjek's Horror Unknown 60ft
Just Like Bayards Unknown
Kernmantle Unknown
Madame Grunnebaum's Sorrow Unknown
Moby Dick Unknown
Osteo-Path Unknown
Peregrine Unknown
** Raunchy Unknown
** Sente Trad
Silhoutte Variation Unknown
Snagglepuss Unknown
Stop The Presses Mr. Williams Unknown
Talus Of Powder Unknown
Too Old To Know Better Unknown
* Traverse Of The Clods Unknown
* Wonderland Trad
5.9 Amber Waves Of Pain Unknown
Badfinger Unknown
Balrog Escape (Bridge of Khaza-dum) Unknown
Blunderbus Unknown
Chimango Unknown
Cold Turkeys Unknown
Cold Turkeys Variation Unknown
Columbia Unknown
Columbia Variation Unknown
** Commando Rave Unknown
Delusions Of Grandeur Unknown
Everybody Needs Thumbody Unknown
* Galactic Hitchhikers Unknown
Hawkeye Unknown
* High Times Unknown
Keep On Struttin' Unknown
*** Le Teton Unknown
Never Better Unknown
* No Glow Unknown
Proctor-Silex Unknown
* Proctoscope Unknown
Quiver Unknown
Red's Arete Unknown
Road Less Travelled Unknown
Sheep Thrills (aka Blind Alley) Unknown
Sword of Damocles Unknown
*** Three Doves Trad 230ft
Three Vultures Unknown
* Triangle Unknown
Triangle Variation Unknown
** Turdland Unknown
Un-Appealing Ceiling Unknown
** Wild Horses Unknown
Wiseland Unknown
Wonderland Variation Unknown
5.10- *** Never Never Land Unknown 100ft
5.10b * City Streets Unknown 200ft
*** Feast of Fools Unknown
5.10 Android Unknown
** Balrog Unknown
** Country Roads Unknown
* Dat-Mantle Unknown
* Deep Lichen Unknown
* Dis-Mantle Unknown
** Face To Face Unknown
* G Forces Unknown
G Forces Variation Unknown
J'Accuse Unknown
Journey's End Unknown
Never More Unknown
*** Never Say Never Unknown
Nurdland Unknown
* Nurse's Aid Unknown
Reach Of Faith Unknown
** The Feast Of Fools Unknown
Three Vultures Variation Unknown
Welcome To My Nightmare Unknown
Yenta Unknown
5.10+ * Cheap Thrills Unknown
Fast Food Unknown
Quiver Variation Unknown
Shell Shock Unknown
Turdland, The Original Aid Line Unknown
5.11 Deep Chills Unknown
** Man's Quest For Flight Unknown
* Metropolis Unknown
* On Any Monday Unknown
Wop Stop Unknown
5.11+ * HELP! Unknown
Skeletal Remains Unknown
5.12 * Bullfrong Unknown
PLEH! Unknown
** Supper's Ready Unknown
5.13 The Zone Unknown