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Access issues inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.1 G Silly Chimney Unknown
2
5.11 PG ** No Man's Land Unknown
3
5.12 PG * Tiers Of Fears Unknown
4
5.11 PG *** The Yellow Wall Unknown
6
5.12 R * Scary Area Unknown
7
5.12 Darey Area Unknown
8
5.8 G ** Airy Aria Unknown
9
5.11 PG ** Carbs And Caffeine Unknown
10
5.7 PG Lots Of Malarkey Unknown
11
5.12 G Wasp Stop Unknown
12
5.11+ PG ** The Sting Unknown
13
5.9 PG Lisa Unknown
14
5.9 G ASIL Unknown
15
5.11 PG Leonardo Unknown
16
5.9 G Mona Unknown
17
5.8 PG Full Face Unknown
19
5.11 G Foops Trapp Unknown
20
5.2 G 48 Unknown
21
5.10+ R Roast Bouef (aka Vader) Unknown
22
5.9 PG Ventre De Bouef Unknown
25
5.10+ R Where Fools Rush In Unknown
26
5.8 G *** Double Crack Unknown
27
5.9 PG Lito And the Swan Unknown
28
5.9 PG Ivan And The Saum Unknown
29
5.9 G High Jinx Unknown
30
5.5 PG Broken Hammer Unknown
31
5.7 R The Zig Zag Face Unknown
32
5.2 G 49 Unknown
33
5.11 PG Forces Of Nature Unknown
34
5.10 PG Who Knows? Unknown
35
5.8 PG The Nose Unknown
36
5.11 G Lord Knows Unknown
37
5.10 PG Lady's Lament Unknown
38
5.9 PG Fillipina Unknown
39
5.10+ R Boulder-Ville Unknown
40
5.8 G * Bold-Ville Unknown 72ft
41
5.10 X The Scummer Unknown
43
5.11 Four Seasons Variant Unknown
44
5.10+ PG ** The Winter Unknown
45
5.11 R The Fall Unknown
46
5.11 ** The Summer Unknown
47
5.10 PG *** The Spring Unknown
49
5.8 G Oblique Twique Unknown
51
5.10 PG Tweak Or Freak Unknown
52
5.10+ R Tweak Or Freak Variant Unknown
53
5.7 PG Shit Creek Unknown
54
5.10 R Unslung Heroes Unknown
55
5.10+ R Unslung Heroes Variant Unknown
56
5.9 PG Los Tres Cabrones Unknown
57
5.8 PG Blistered Toe Unknown
59
5.8 PG Torture Garden Unknown
60
5.10 G Last Frontier Unknown
61
5.11 G * Climb And Punishment Unknown
62
5.12 R * Yellow Crack Unknown
64
5.10+ PG Bragg-Hatch Unknown
65
5.11+ PG *** Kligfield's Follies Unknown
66
5.12 R Cluney's Jollies Unknown
67
5.10 G *** Simple Suff Unknown
68
5.10 PG13 Simple Suff Direct Start Unknown
69
5.12 Techo-suff Unknown
70
5.8 * Tangled Up and Blue Unknown 230ft