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Access issues inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.10 G ** Frustration Syndrome Unknown
2
5.11 PG * The Stand Unknown
3
5.10 PG Coproghagia Unknown
4
5.11 Coproghagia Variant Unknown
5
5.9 G ** Wasp Unknown
7
5.10 R Expedition To Nowhere Unknown
8
5.4 G Sticky Gate Unknown
9
5.9 PG Mud, Sweat, And Tears Unknown
12
5.11 PG Withering Heights Unknown
13
5.7 G ** Moondance Unknown
14
5.6 G Sundance Unknown 110ft

FA: Jim McCarthy & John Rupley

15
5.7 PG Ghostdance Unknown
16
5.5 G Raindance Unknown
17
5.6 PG Contradance Unknown 59ft
18
Class 4 Roger's Escape Hatch Unknown
19
5.2 G * Casa Emilio Unknown 150ft
20
22
24
5.12 Strings Attached Unknown
25
5.8 G * Casablanca Unknown
26
5.7 PG Emilio Unknown
27
5.8 PG Casanova Unknown
28
29
5.10+ R Independent Hangover Unknown
30
5.10 G * Yo Mama Unknown
31
5.11 PG13 Worp Factor 1 Unknown
32
5.8 PG Interstellar Overdrive Unknown
33
5.3 G Emilietta Unknown
34
5.9 PG Counter Strike Unknown
35
5.8 X * Sudden Death Unknown
36
5.6 G * Trigger Point Unknown
37
5.7 R Trigger Point Variant Unknown
38
5.7 PG Trigger Happy Unknown
39
5.6 G Krazy Krack Unknown
40
5.4 G Crack Of Despondency Unknown
41
5.3 G Pfui Teufel Unknown
42
5.3 G Four Foot Face Unknown
43
5.4 PG Tom's Thumb, Left Hand Unknown
44
5.12 R Future Shock Unknown
46
5.10+ R Meat Byproducts Unknown
47
5.12 The Numbers Racket Unknown
49
5.8 PG Thumbs Up Unknown
50
5.12 R * Renaissance Unknown
51
5.12+ Modern Love Unknown
52
5.10 PG Thom's Thumb, Right Hand Unknown
53
5.5 PG Ranger's Revenge Unknown
54
5.7 G True Brit Unknown
55
5.12 PG13 The Circumcisor Unknown
56
5.12 PG ** Bone Hard Unknown
57
5.12+ R Death's Head Mask Unknown
58
5.12+ PG13 Girls Just Wanna Have Fun Unknown
59
5.10+ PG ** 10,000 Restless Virgins Unknown
61
5.10 Foreign Lesion Unknown
62
5.11 R * Rise to The Occasion Unknown
63
5.7 PG Circumcision Unknown
64
5.7 PG Penal Colony Unknown
65
5.10 PG V.D. Unknown
66
5.9 X Penis Colada Unknown
67
5.10+ R Chirpies Unknown
68
5.3 G The Lone Ranger Unknown
69
5.4 PG After The Prick Unknown
70
5.9 R The Deadline Unknown
71
5.10 PG *** Wegetables Unknown
73
5.10+ Wegetables Variant 2 Unknown
74
5.9 PG Wegetables Variant 3 Unknown
75
5.11+ Wegetables Variant 4 Unknown
76
5.10 PG * Tennish Anyone? Unknown
77
5.10 PG Hawaii Five-Ten Unknown
78
5.8 PG Foot Loose Unknown
79
5.10 PG The Boron Destroyer Unknown
80
5.8 PG Fancy Free Unknown
81
5.9 PG Alligator Alley Unknown
82
5.10 G The Headless Horseman Unknown
83
5.8 PG Crustacean Syndrome Unknown
84
5.12 PG Slime World Unknown
85
5.10+ PG Swamp Gas Unknown
86
5.4 G A Long Walk For Man Unknown