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Table of contents

1. Uberfall Area 36 routes in Area

All Boulder

Long/Lat: -74.188262, 41.737213

Access Issues: inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic: inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

1.1. Doug's Roof Area 17 routes in Area


Long/Lat: -74.189383, 41.737041

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unnamed DA #1 V0 Boulder
2 Unnamed DA #2 V0 Boulder
3 The Dark Bulge V0 Boulder
4 Blasting Hole Problems V1 Boulder
5 Larson's Leap V4 Boulder
6 * Gill's Double Clutch V4 Boulder
7 * Middle Traverse V1 Boulder
8 * High Traverse V4 Boulder
9 Left Bulge V2 Boulder
10 Direct Bulge V6 Boulder
11 Low Traverse V0 Boulder
12 * The Crack V0 Boulder
13 * Unnamed DA #3 V0 Boulder
14 * Unnamed DA #4 V0 Boulder
15 Unnamed DA #5 V0 Boulder
16 * Unnamed DA #6 V0 Boulder
17 Unnamed DA #7 V0 Boulder

1.2. Uberfall Area 6 routes in Area


Long/Lat: -74.188467, 41.737215

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hugh Herr Roof V4 Boulder
2 * The Prow V0 Boulder
3 Mother's Milk V2 Boulder
4 * Pocket Man V0 Boulder
5 Gear Ledge Face V1 Boulder
6 The Goldstone Bulge V0 Boulder

1.3. Suzie A Area 13 routes in Area


Long/Lat: -74.187408, 41.737461

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Warmup Horizontal V1 Boulder
2 * Trash Can Traverse V3 Boulder
3 * Trash Can Left V1 Boulder
4 * Trash Can Overhang V2 Boulder
5 * Stannard's Crank V3 Boulder
6 Suzie A Arete V2 Boulder
7 * Suzie A V1 Boulder
8 Pucker V2 Boulder
9 * Suzie B V0 Boulder
10 Over the Hill V4 Boulder
11 Thumb Traverse V0 Boulder
12 Dish Traverse V0 Boulder
13 * The Fin V4 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V0 Low Traverse Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
* The Crack Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
The Dark Bulge Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
Unnamed DA #1 Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
Unnamed DA #2 Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
* Unnamed DA #3 Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
* Unnamed DA #4 Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
Unnamed DA #5 Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
* Unnamed DA #6 Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
Unnamed DA #7 Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
* Pocket Man Boulder 1.2. Uberfall Area
The Goldstone Bulge Boulder 1.2. Uberfall Area
* The Prow Boulder 1.2. Uberfall Area
Dish Traverse Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
* Suzie B Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
Thumb Traverse Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
V1 Blasting Hole Problems Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
* Middle Traverse Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
Gear Ledge Face Boulder 1.2. Uberfall Area
* Suzie A Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
* Trash Can Left Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
Warmup Horizontal Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
V2 Left Bulge Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
Mother's Milk Boulder 1.2. Uberfall Area
Pucker Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
Suzie A Arete Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
* Trash Can Overhang Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
V3 * Stannard's Crank Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
* Trash Can Traverse Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
V4 * Gill's Double Clutch Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
* High Traverse Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
Larson's Leap Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area
* Hugh Herr Roof Boulder 1.2. Uberfall Area
Over the Hill Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
* The Fin Boulder 1.3. Suzie A Area
V6 Direct Bulge Boulder 1.1. Doug's Roof Area