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Table of contents

1. Early Trapps Areas 41 routes in Area

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -74.182511, 41.741229

Access Issues: inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic: inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

1.1. Pebbles Boulders 23 routes in Area

Mostly Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jordan's Problem V8 Boulder
2 The Arm Eater Crack V1 Boulder
3 Hand Eater Crack V1 Boulder
4 * Pat's Pinch V7 Boulder
5 Pebbles Left, High Traverse V3 Boulder
6 * Habenaro Balls V5 Boulder
7 * The Depantzer V8 Boulder
8 Tweedledum V2 Boulder
9 Just Another Problem in the Trapps V3 Boulder
10 Goldstone Layaway V2 Boulder
11 * Goldstone Traverse V4 Boulder
12 * Tweedledee V2 Boulder
13 Flight of the Gumb V6 Boulder
14 Tweaky Crack V3 Boulder
15 * Lynn Hill's Traverse V8 Boulder
16 No Hands Unknown
17 * Did That Years Ago V5 Boulder
18 * Naked Convulsions V0 Boulder
19 * The Black Boulder Problem V5 Boulder
20 * Black Boulder Crack V0 Boulder
21 Black Boulder Layback V0 Boulder
22 Dislocator Roof V2 Boulder
23 Black Head Unknown

1.2. Kama Sutra Boulders 6 routes in Area

All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 You're Not Good Enough V2 Boulder
2 Green Dihedral V0 Boulder
3 Makin' the Best of a Bad Thing V0 Boulder
4 * Kama Sutra Traverse V3 Boulder
5 Little One V0 Boulder
6 Little Two V0 Boulder

1.3. Stairway Boulders 12 routes in Area

All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Come On V0 Boulder
2 No Way V0 Boulder
3 Head Banger V3 Boulder
4 * Io V3 Boulder
5 * Zichel Dorfitch V2 Boulder
6 Anoid V8 Boulder
7 Happy V0 Boulder
8 Unhappy V2 Boulder
9 Shits V3 Boulder
10 Giggles V2 Boulder
11 Depressed V2 Boulder
12 Sampson V6 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V0 * Black Boulder Crack Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
Black Boulder Layback Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
* Naked Convulsions Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
Green Dihedral Boulder 1.2. Kama Sutra Boulders
Little One Boulder 1.2. Kama Sutra Boulders
Little Two Boulder 1.2. Kama Sutra Boulders
Makin' the Best of a Bad Thing Boulder 1.2. Kama Sutra Boulders
Come On Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
Happy Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
No Way Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
V1 Hand Eater Crack Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
The Arm Eater Crack Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
V2 Dislocator Roof Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
Goldstone Layaway Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
* Tweedledee Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
Tweedledum Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
You're Not Good Enough Boulder 1.2. Kama Sutra Boulders
Depressed Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
Giggles Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
Unhappy Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
* Zichel Dorfitch Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
V3 Just Another Problem in the Trapps Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
Pebbles Left, High Traverse Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
Tweaky Crack Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
* Kama Sutra Traverse Boulder 1.2. Kama Sutra Boulders
Head Banger Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
* Io Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
Shits Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
V4 * Goldstone Traverse Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
V5 * Did That Years Ago Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
* Habenaro Balls Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
* The Black Boulder Problem Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
V6 Flight of the Gumb Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
Sampson Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
V7 * Pat's Pinch Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
V8 Jordan's Problem Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
* Lynn Hill's Traverse Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
* The Depantzer Boulder 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
Anoid Boulder 1.3. Stairway Boulders
? Black Head Unknown 1.1. Pebbles Boulders
No Hands Unknown 1.1. Pebbles Boulders