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Table of contents

1. North End 80 routes in Area

Mostly Unknown
Access Issues: inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic: inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Easy Rider 5.9 G Unknown
2 Wichita 5.3 G Unknown
3 St. Louis 5.5 G Unknown
4 Independence 5.2 G Unknown
5 ** Kansas City 5.12 G Unknown
6 Topeka 5.10 PG Unknown
7 Outer Space 5.8 PG Unknown
8 * Le Plie 5.7 PG Unknown
9 Infinite Space (aka Hyperspace) 5.12 PG Unknown
10 Outer Space Direct 5.10 PG Unknown
11 Crass 5.10 PG Unknown
12 Crass Direct Finish 5.11 R Unknown
13 Iron Cross 5.12+ PG Unknown
14 ** Criss 5.11 PG Unknown
15 ** Criss Cross 5.10 PG Unknown
16 Between The Lines 5.11 R Unknown
17 Sling Line 5.11 Unknown
18 *** Broken Sling 5.8 PG Unknown
19 Broken Sling Direct 5.9 PG Unknown
20 Broken Sling Original Aid Line 5.10 G Unknown
21 * Squat Thrust 5.12 PG Unknown
22 *** Disneyland

FA: Dave Craft and Eric Stern

5.6 PG Unknown 220ft
23 ** Disney Point 5.10 PG Unknown
24 ** Slime Time 5.11+ PG Unknown
25 * Swing Time 5.11 PG Unknown
26 Leftovers 5.7 PG Unknown
27 Leftovers Variant 1 5.10 G Unknown
28 Leftovers Variant 2 5.9 G Unknown
29 Te Dum 5.7 G Unknown 120ft
30 ** Inverted Layback 5.9 PG Unknown
31 Burning Babies 5.11 PG Unknown
32 ** Layback

FA: Fritz Wiessner and George Temple

5.5 PG Trad 120ft
33 *** Grand Central 5.9 PG Unknown
34 Penn Station 5.10 PG Unknown
35 Hot Clime 5.9 G Unknown
36 Hot Clime Variant 5.9 Unknown
37 ** Alphonse

FA: FA: Ken Prestrud and Lucien Warner, FFA: John Turner

5.8 G Trad 150ft
38 Sissy Boys 5.10+ R Unknown
39 No Slings Attached 5.10 R Unknown
40 Bongos And Beached Whales 5.10 R Unknown
41 ** Yellow Belly 5.8 PG Unknown 160ft
42 Underbelly 5.11 PG Unknown
43 *** Yellow Ridge

FA: Fritz Wiessner, Ed Gross, and Ann Gross

5.7 PG Trad 200ft
44 Yellow Ridge Variant 1 5.9 Unknown
45 Yellow Ridge Variant 2 5.8 PG Unknown
46 Fat Stick 5.8 G Unknown
47 ** Fat Stick Direct 5.10 PG Unknown
48 Generation Gap 5.11 G Unknown
49 The Hounds 5.10 PG Unknown
50 ** Requiem 5.12 PG Unknown
51 * Baskerville Terrace 5.7 PG13 Unknown 200ft
52 *** Fat City 5.10 PG Unknown
53 ** Fat City Direct 5.10+ G Unknown
54 Land Of The Giants 5.11 X Unknown
55 *** Gelsa

FA: Fritz Weissner, Becket Howorth & George Temple

5.4 PG Trad 200ft
56 G String 5.10 R Unknown
57 Pain Strain 5.11+ PG Unknown
58 Forbidden Zone 5.12 Unknown
59 * Eraserhead 5.12 R Unknown
60 * Shitface 5.10c R Unknown
61 Revolving Eyeballs 5.10 R Unknown
62 *** Roseland 5.9 G Unknown
63 ** Boogey Man 5.12 R Unknown
64 El Kabong 5.12 R Unknown
65 El Camino 5.11 PG13 Unknown
66 *** Transcontinental Nailway 5.10 PG Unknown
67 Road Warrior 5.11+ R Unknown
68 Slammin' The Salmon 5.12 Unknown
69 * Bird Brain 5.11+ R Unknown
70 *** Birdland

FA: Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, and Jim Andress

5.8 G Unknown 200ft
71 ** Bird Cage 5.10 PG Unknown
72 ** Farewell To Arms 5.8 PG Unknown
73 Farewell To Arms Variant 5.10 Unknown
74 Farewell To Fingers 5.12 R Unknown
75 The Boy From Above 5.11+ Unknown
76 ** To Be, Or Not To Be 5.11+ R Unknown
77 *** To Have Or Have Not 5.12 R Unknown
78 Son Of Stem 5.11 R Unknown
79 Solyent Green 5.11 R Unknown
80 * Grease Gun Groove 5.6 G Unknown 110ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.2 Independence Unknown
5.3 Wichita Unknown
5.4 *** Gelsa Trad 200ft
5.5 ** Layback Trad 120ft
St. Louis Unknown
5.6 *** Disneyland Unknown 220ft
* Grease Gun Groove Unknown 110ft
5.7 * Baskerville Terrace Unknown 200ft
* Le Plie Unknown
Leftovers Unknown
Te Dum Unknown 120ft
*** Yellow Ridge Trad 200ft
5.8 ** Alphonse Trad 150ft
*** Birdland Unknown 200ft
*** Broken Sling Unknown
** Farewell To Arms Unknown
Fat Stick Unknown
Outer Space Unknown
** Yellow Belly Unknown 160ft
Yellow Ridge Variant 2 Unknown
5.9 Broken Sling Direct Unknown
** Easy Rider Unknown
*** Grand Central Unknown
Hot Clime Unknown
Hot Clime Variant Unknown
** Inverted Layback Unknown
Leftovers Variant 2 Unknown
*** Roseland Unknown
Yellow Ridge Variant 1 Unknown
5.10c * Shitface Unknown
5.10 ** Bird Cage Unknown
Bongos And Beached Whales Unknown
Broken Sling Original Aid Line Unknown
Crass Unknown
** Criss Cross Unknown
** Disney Point Unknown
Farewell To Arms Variant Unknown
*** Fat City Unknown
** Fat Stick Direct Unknown
G String Unknown
Leftovers Variant 1 Unknown
No Slings Attached Unknown
Outer Space Direct Unknown
Penn Station Unknown
Revolving Eyeballs Unknown
The Hounds Unknown
Topeka Unknown
*** Transcontinental Nailway Unknown
5.10+ ** Fat City Direct Unknown
Sissy Boys Unknown
5.11 Between The Lines Unknown
Burning Babies Unknown
Crass Direct Finish Unknown
** Criss Unknown
El Camino Unknown
Generation Gap Unknown
Land Of The Giants Unknown
Sling Line Unknown
Solyent Green Unknown
Son Of Stem Unknown
* Swing Time Unknown
Underbelly Unknown
5.11+ * Bird Brain Unknown
Pain Strain Unknown
Road Warrior Unknown
** Slime Time Unknown
The Boy From Above Unknown
** To Be, Or Not To Be Unknown
5.12 ** Boogey Man Unknown
El Kabong Unknown
* Eraserhead Unknown
Farewell To Fingers Unknown
Forbidden Zone Unknown
Infinite Space (aka Hyperspace) Unknown
** Kansas City Unknown
** Requiem Unknown
Slammin' The Salmon Unknown
* Squat Thrust Unknown
*** To Have Or Have Not Unknown
5.12+ Iron Cross Unknown