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Access issues inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.10+ G Tulip Muscle Garden Unknown
2
5.10 PG Corporate Conglomerate Unknown
3
5.7 PG Grey Gully Unknown
4
5.9 Princess Leia Unknown 80ft
5
5.5 PG Lonely Challenge Unknown
6
5.7 PG Horney Unknown
7
5.5 PG Hornet Rocks Unknown
8
5.7 G Bee Bite Unknown
9
5.10 PG *** Elder Cleavage Unknown 250ft

FA: Ivan Rezucha

11
5.7 G ** Up Yours Unknown 150ft

FA: John Weichsel & Bill Goldner

12
5.5 G Loose Goose Unknown 280ft
13
5.9 PG Swiss Air Unknown
14
5.5 PG Ain't Dis Yab Yum? Unknown
15
5.10+ PG Where The Wild Things Are Unknown
16
5.10 R Vultures Know Unknown
17
5.7 PG After You Unknown
18
5.3 G Yum Yum Yab Yum Unknown

FA: Art Gran & Al DeMaria

20
5.8 PG B. Werewolf Unknown
21
5.6 PG Eenie Meenie Unknown
22
5.8 G * My-Knee Moe Unknown
23
5.9 PG Catch A Tiger Unknown
25
5.9 PG By The Toe Unknown
26
5.10 X Nazgul Unknown
27
5.10 PG13 Wrong Place, Right Time Unknown
30
5.10 PG Tooth And Nail Unknown
31
5.10 R * Elf Stone Unknown
32
5.5 PG Orc Stone Unknown
33
5.5 PG Cherry's Climb Unknown
34
5.11 R Lost World Unknown
35
5.6 PG Fellatio Unknown
36
5.9 G Gold Rush Unknown
37
5.6 PG Vulga-Tits Unknown
38
5.5 G Three Generations Unknown
39
5.8 PG Nowhereland Unknown
40
5.8 PG * Zachariah Unknown
41
43
5.9 PG ** Good Friday Climb Unknown
44
5.8 G * Eastertime Too Unknown 120ft
45
5.10 PG Wooly Clam Taco Unknown
46
5.9 R Boston Tree Party Unknown 120ft
47
5.8 G Day Tripper Unknown
48
5.11 G Day Tripper Variant Unknown
49
5.8 G As The Cliff Turns Unknown
50
5.5 G Scuttlebutt Unknown
51
5.9 G Peyton Paltz Unknown
52
5.7 PG Gold Flakes Unknown
53
5.8 R Energy Crunch Unknown
54
5.7 PG Deception Unknown
55
5.9 PG Wolf And The Swine Unknown
56
5.6 G Animal Farm Unknown
57
5.11 PG13 * Raven And The Cat Unknown
58
5.9 PG Cherokee Unknown
59
5.8 PG BM Unknown
60
5.8 PG Slab Shtick Unknown
61
5.8 G Eat Here And Get Gas Unknown
62
5.11+ Pump Ethyl Unknown
64
5.11+ Mighty White Of Us Unknown
65
5.8 G Bush League Unknown
66
5.8 PG Drohascadamfubast Unknown
68
5.8 PG * Moxie Unknown
69
5.6 G * Giddah Unknown
70
5.6 R Rock Around The Clock Unknown
71
5.6 PG13 Flake, Rattle And Roll Unknown
73
5.9 X She's The Boss Unknown
74
5.9 PG ** Honky Tonk Woman Unknown
75
5.7 PG * White Pillar Unknown
76
5.11 G ** Harvest Moon Unknown
77
5.12 R * The Mincer Unknown
78
5.10 PG Shootin' The Curl Unknown
79
5.10 G Hang Ten Unknown
80
5.1 PG Tree Filled Chimney Unknown
81
5.11 R Boogey Bored Unknown
82
5.4 PG Far Trapps Unknown
83
5.10+ The Far Side Trapps Unknown
84
5.7 PG Just For The Record Unknown
87
5.5 G To Come Or Become Unknown
90
5.7 PG13 Parsifal And Potato Chips Unknown