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Table of contents

1. Center Section 90 routes in Area

All Unknown
Access Issues: inherited from Shawangunks

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

Ethic: inherited from Shawangunks

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above. a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent) black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes) blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent) #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent) 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings) 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners) A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent) a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent) a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor. larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5) medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tulip Muscle Garden 5.10+ G Unknown
2 Corporate Conglomerate 5.10 PG Unknown
3 Grey Gully 5.7 PG Unknown
4 Princess Leia 5.9 Unknown 80ft
5 Lonely Challenge 5.5 PG Unknown
6 Horney 5.7 PG Unknown
7 Hornet Rocks 5.5 PG Unknown
8 Bee Bite 5.7 G Unknown
9 *** Elder Cleavage

FA: Ivan Rezucha

5.10 PG Unknown 250ft
10 Carlos Buhler's Day Off 5.12 Unknown
11 ** Up Yours

FA: John Weichsel and Bill Goldner

5.7 G Unknown 150ft
12 Loose Goose 5.5 G Unknown 280ft
13 Swiss Air 5.9 PG Unknown
14 Ain't Dis Yab Yum? 5.5 PG Unknown
15 Where The Wild Things Are 5.10+ PG Unknown
16 Vultures Know 5.10 R Unknown
17 After You 5.7 PG Unknown
18 Yum Yum Yab Yum

FA: Art Gran & Al DeMaria

5.3 G Unknown
19 Yum Yum Yab Yum Variant 5.8 Unknown
20 B. Werewolf 5.8 PG Unknown
21 Eenie Meenie 5.6 PG Unknown
22 * My-Knee Moe 5.8 G Unknown
23 Catch A Tiger 5.9 PG Unknown
24 Catch A Tiger Top Rop Variant 5.11+ Unknown
25 By The Toe 5.9 PG Unknown
26 Nazgul 5.10 X Unknown
27 Wrong Place, Right Time 5.10 PG13 Unknown
28 You're In The Wrong Place, My Friend 5.6 PG Unknown
29 You're In The Wrong Place, My Friend Variant 5.8 G Unknown
30 Tooth And Nail 5.10 PG Unknown
31 * Elf Stone 5.10 R Unknown
32 Orc Stone 5.5 PG Unknown
33 Cherry's Climb 5.5 PG Unknown
34 Lost World 5.11 R Unknown
35 Fellatio 5.6 PG Unknown
36 Gold Rush 5.9 G Unknown
37 Vulga-Tits 5.6 PG Unknown
38 Three Generations 5.5 G Unknown
39 Nowhereland 5.8 PG Unknown
40 * Zachariah 5.8 PG Unknown
41 International Harvesters 5.9 PG Unknown
42 Between A Rock And A Hard Place 5.8 R Unknown
43 ** Good Friday Climb 5.9 PG Unknown
44 * Eastertime Too 5.8 G Unknown 120ft
45 Wooly Clam Taco 5.10 PG Unknown
46 Boston Tree Party 5.9 R Unknown 120ft
47 Day Tripper 5.8 G Unknown
48 Day Tripper Variant 5.11 G Unknown
49 As The Cliff Turns 5.8 G Unknown
50 Scuttlebutt 5.5 G Unknown
51 Peyton Paltz 5.9 G Unknown
52 Gold Flakes 5.7 PG Unknown
53 Energy Crunch 5.8 R Unknown
54 Deception 5.7 PG Unknown
55 Wolf And The Swine 5.9 PG Unknown
56 Animal Farm 5.6 G Unknown
57 * Raven And The Cat 5.11 PG13 Unknown
58 Cherokee 5.9 PG Unknown
59 BM 5.8 PG Unknown
60 Slab Shtick 5.8 PG Unknown
61 Eat Here And Get Gas 5.8 G Unknown
62 Pump Ethyl 5.11+ Unknown
63 3,4,5,6, Over And Out Porkypine 5.9 PG Unknown
64 Mighty White Of Us 5.11+ Unknown
65 Bush League 5.8 G Unknown
66 Drohascadamfubast 5.8 PG Unknown
67 Drohascadamfubast Direct Start 5.8 PG Unknown
68 * Moxie 5.8 PG Unknown
69 * Giddah 5.6 G Unknown
70 Rock Around The Clock 5.6 R Unknown
71 Flake, Rattle And Roll 5.6 PG13 Unknown
72 Just Allow Me One More Chance 5.6 PG Unknown
73 She's The Boss 5.9 X Unknown
74 ** Honky Tonk Woman 5.9 PG Unknown
75 * White Pillar 5.7 PG Unknown
76 ** Harvest Moon 5.11 G Unknown
77 * The Mincer 5.12 R Unknown
78 Shootin' The Curl 5.10 PG Unknown
79 Hang Ten 5.10 G Unknown
80 Tree Filled Chimney 5.1 PG Unknown
81 Boogey Bored 5.11 R Unknown
82 Far Trapps 5.4 PG Unknown
83 The Far Side Trapps 5.10+ Unknown
84 Just For The Record 5.7 PG Unknown
85 We've Got To Stop Meeting Like This 5.8 G Unknown
86 Across From The Fruitstand 5.4 PG Unknown
87 To Come Or Become 5.5 G Unknown
88 Roman's Climb Next To Across From The Fruitstand 5.6 PG Unknown
89 Roman's Climb Next To Across From The Fruitstand Variant 5.8 PG13 Unknown
90 Parsifal And Potato Chips 5.7 PG13 Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.1 Tree Filled Chimney Unknown
5.3 Yum Yum Yab Yum Unknown
5.4 Across From The Fruitstand Unknown
Far Trapps Unknown
5.5 Ain't Dis Yab Yum? Unknown
Cherry's Climb Unknown
Hornet Rocks Unknown
Lonely Challenge Unknown
Loose Goose Unknown 280ft
Orc Stone Unknown
Scuttlebutt Unknown
Three Generations Unknown
To Come Or Become Unknown
5.6 Animal Farm Unknown
Eenie Meenie Unknown
Fellatio Unknown
Flake, Rattle And Roll Unknown
* Giddah Unknown
Just Allow Me One More Chance Unknown
Rock Around The Clock Unknown
Roman's Climb Next To Across From The Fruitstand Unknown
Vulga-Tits Unknown
You're In The Wrong Place, My Friend Unknown
5.7 After You Unknown
Bee Bite Unknown
Deception Unknown
Gold Flakes Unknown
Grey Gully Unknown
Horney Unknown
Just For The Record Unknown
Parsifal And Potato Chips Unknown
** Up Yours Unknown 150ft
* White Pillar Unknown
5.8 As The Cliff Turns Unknown
B. Werewolf Unknown
BM Unknown
Between A Rock And A Hard Place Unknown
Bush League Unknown
Day Tripper Unknown
Drohascadamfubast Unknown
Drohascadamfubast Direct Start Unknown
* Eastertime Too Unknown 120ft
Eat Here And Get Gas Unknown
Energy Crunch Unknown
* Moxie Unknown
* My-Knee Moe Unknown
Nowhereland Unknown
Roman's Climb Next To Across From The Fruitstand Variant Unknown
Slab Shtick Unknown
We've Got To Stop Meeting Like This Unknown
You're In The Wrong Place, My Friend Variant Unknown
Yum Yum Yab Yum Variant Unknown
* Zachariah Unknown
5.9 3,4,5,6, Over And Out Porkypine Unknown
Boston Tree Party Unknown 120ft
By The Toe Unknown
Catch A Tiger Unknown
Cherokee Unknown
Gold Rush Unknown
** Good Friday Climb Unknown
** Honky Tonk Woman Unknown
International Harvesters Unknown
Peyton Paltz Unknown
Princess Leia Unknown 80ft
She's The Boss Unknown
Swiss Air Unknown
Wolf And The Swine Unknown
5.10 Corporate Conglomerate Unknown
*** Elder Cleavage Unknown 250ft
* Elf Stone Unknown
Hang Ten Unknown
Nazgul Unknown
Shootin' The Curl Unknown
Tooth And Nail Unknown
Vultures Know Unknown
Wooly Clam Taco Unknown
Wrong Place, Right Time Unknown
5.10+ The Far Side Trapps Unknown
Tulip Muscle Garden Unknown
Where The Wild Things Are Unknown
5.11 Boogey Bored Unknown
Day Tripper Variant Unknown
** Harvest Moon Unknown
Lost World Unknown
* Raven And The Cat Unknown
5.11+ Catch A Tiger Top Rop Variant Unknown
Mighty White Of Us Unknown
Pump Ethyl Unknown
5.12 Carlos Buhler's Day Off Unknown
* The Mincer Unknown