Routes as sport in West Ship

fun moderate slab

Short easy sport route. Good for new leaders.

the access pitch to power

Route to the left of Caffeine Free. Starts with a lie back pinch and then climbs much like Caffeine Free. Plenty of nubbins on the face with jugs at the top.

Cool route above Caffeine Free or Covid-5.10 Rock quality is not perfect but good enough. Lots of stemming and good rests along the way. Fun movement. Can be linked with either Caffeine Free or Covid-5.10 as a single pitch with an 80m rope and approximately 22 draws (prepare for a little rope drag).

Short bouldery route just before you enter Cocaine Gulley (below and opposite Slit Your Wrists). If you start low, it's 12a, if you start high on the obvious and easier holds, it's 11b.

A diverse route that starts with a hard boulder sequence (crux) on edges, and finishes on knobs, pockets and arete moves.

Just uphill from Freebase, this route is great fun on little pinchers. If you enjoyed Chicken McNuggets, you'll enjoy this one. It's a nice test of strategic resting - bad rhythm will get you all pumped out. Expect it to be pleasantly stiff for the grade.

A Smith classic with bomber, vertical stone and excellent, consistently engaging and committing climbing. After a mid-height technical crux this route turns to sweet reaches between incut crimps. The good climbing seems to go on forever!

Stick clip the first, a fall from here would be a catastrophic tumble down a rocky gully.

There is a bolt in the wall for the belayer to clip into - strongly recommended (a couple extra slings and carabiners will make this a bit easier)

A classic 5.11 pump-a-thon. A stick-clip is recommended to clip the first bolt to protect the insecure and overhanging first moves. The climbing is steep and consistent with a crux coming in the middle, but the pump combined with an odd finger-crack sequence will send many climbers for a ride near the top.

Tough lie back to start then soe excellent Smith Rock nubbin climbing. There is a loose hold below the first bolt, so be careful if you have not stick clipped.

Classic Smith Rock nubbin climbing. Very similar to Chicken McNuggets to the left.

deserves more attention than it gets.

Three large moves to a pockety traverse out left, then pull up to thin delicate edges to the anchors

Steep, blunt arete to the right of Bloodshot. Steep bouldery jugging, unique for Smith!