Routes as sport in Smith Rock State Park

1. (5.7) 9 bolts. Climb 'King Nothing'[301845909] to the bolted belay.

2. (5.10b) 10 bolts. Continue up edges on the face to a 2 bolt anchor.

Rappel the route to descend.

First pitch

Up and right around bulges, to a step hard right under the small roof to anchors above. Has a 5.10 bolted extension which makes for a nice, long 35m pitch. Tie a knot in the end of your 70m rope to lower

Great climbing on good quality rock. Sustained 5.10 climbing with a cryptic crux.

1. (5.6) 10 bolts.

2. (5.10c) 6 bolts.

3. (5.10b) 10 bolts.

4. (5.9) 10 bolts. Frightening rock quality.

Descend by hiking down the 3rd class gully to the last 3 rappels of 'Wherever I May Roam'[19225615].

The start is good but the rock then turns to rubbish. It's nice and steep and long but most of the climb might eventually fall down bit by bit.

Best route on the wall but that's not saying much

Short highly bolted original route on the wall

Shares the first two bolts of Wannabe Llamas

Optional 3" cam protects moves below the first bolt.

This variant of 'When Llamas Bolt'[19224721] climbs the right side of the arête (8 bolts) before traversing right to join 'Scary Llamas'[19224613] (2 bolts).

Aptly named. Generously bolted route, tough stemming in the afternoon shaded corner. Overhang and smooth wall with a lack of positive handholds in the crux makes this a tough route on lead.

Approach via the first 2 pitches of 'Wherever I May Roam'[19225615]. Ascend the crack and arête past 8 bolts to the bolted anchors. Rappel with 2 ropes to descend.

All belay anchors are bolted.

1. (5.8) 7 bolts. Climb P1 of 'Adventurous 9904'[301696386].

2. (5.9) 9 bolts. Clip a bolt and step across the top of a leaning chimney. Follow the bolts traversing up and left.

3. (5.9) 9 bolts. Continue traversing left around an exposed face, ignoring the bolts leading up for 'The Unforgiven'[16799941] and 'Tears of Rage'[19225339]. Top anchor is also the top of rappel #3.

4. (5.9) 10 bolts. Follow bolts up and right past a tricky arête to easy slab.

5. (5.9) 5 bolts. Easy slab leads straight up to jugs on a headwall and anchors up on top.

Descend with 60m rope in 4 rappels.

1. Rappel off the back (east) side above a 3rd class gully and walk over to chains above the west face.

2. Rappel to anchors at the top of pitch 3.

3. Rappel most of the length of the rope and look for anchors to the right.

4. Rappel to the ground.

Consult a topo (e.g., Watts guide) and know the descent before you start. Climbers have been injured and rescued after rappelling this route from the wrong anchors.

The hardest sections are well-protected with bolts, but elsewhere there are long run-outs across the sharp arete.

America's first 8c+.

A particularly long slab (140 feet, 18 bolts) plenty of tricky moves, with small holds, hardly visible from the ground. This kind of classic routes is considered to be particularly difficult to onsight.

November 12, 2018 - First ascended onsight by Adam Ondra.

This is the route that climbs out of the Monkey's mouth and traverses right then up, to the summit.

A great 5.11b on the far left end of Shipwreck. Slightly overhanging but with good holds and fun movement.

A very fun and bouldery route that starts and finishes just right of Blue Light Special. This is the second route from the left on the Shiprock.

A fun thin climb that starts just to the right of Liquid Jade and Blue Light Special on the lower portion of the wall. Plenty of classic Smith crimps.

Be wary of some loose rock left of the anchors.

A near continuously challenging route from beginning to end. The crux hits at the 3rd bolt with bulge moves using two odd hueco-like features with cracks inset in them. Finish with another hard (11-) move near the top.

This short route has one committing hard sequence just after the second bolt, launching into tricky bulge moves from an undercling. After this, a much easier challenge gets you to the anchors.

Quality challenging climbing in the first 10m lead to an easy finish on poorer rock. Start in the left side of a large dish and move up and right with thin moves.

A decent mid-5.10. While not a particularly inspiring line it's not too bad either.

It's on the upper (right) end of the wall, just to the left of the obvious overhang.

A short and thuggy route that climbs like a long boulder problem, with very dynamic movement. Expect to step high and go big. If your looking for a steep and powerful line, this is a good one.

This route follows the obvious natural feature that can be seen from the parking lot (left trending roof system). It starts with easy slab for three bolts then climbs a short steep part to position under the roof system. The forth bolt is located up high near the roof due to the quality of rock. Use a long sling on this one. Undercling, lieback, head/shoulder scum, or whatever it takes to traverse left under the blocky roof (two more bolts, probably the crux). Turn over up into the left facing corner to clip the 7th bolt. Keep traversing to the left under the small roof on the face to clip the last bolt. Move left to the right facing crack system, which leads to the anchor.

Climb a tricky bulge at the start (11-) to easy ground and an anchor. Continue on fun jugs for a few bolts until the holds shrink for the obvious crux section. Keep your cool and fight the pump to the upper anchor. Lower with a 70m rope or lower to the first anchor with a 60m and re-thread.

Sitting right next to the classic Bolt From the Blue, this neglected line deserves more traffic. Possible crux at the third bolt clearing a bulge, then veer left to avoid the worst rock in the easy middle section. The upper wall offers fun pulls between good pockets and jugs, culminating with a pumpy crux at the top. Moving up to the anchors on small knobs adds just a bit of spice. Lower off with a 70m.

The Stoney Surfer features hard arete climbing (the first crux) followed by a powerful crux on good holds. The ending bit is probably in the low 5.11 range, but it can sustain a good pump. Although this is a new route, the rock quality is remarkable. The hard climbing has perfect rock with beautiful streaks running down it. The climbing after the cruxes is still good, but not as perfect as at the crux.

It shares the first two bolts with Rising Tides and then branches out left. Start of on some chossy rock that is surprisingly solid. Large blocks are held in place creating jugs that lead to the clipping stance for the 2nd bolt. Looks scarier than it really is! Don't be shy because of the intimidating start.

Traverse into the perfect rock out left and begin the first crux after clipping the 3rd bolt. The first crux is both powerful and delicate but good body positioning makes it doable. The rock on the arete passing the 3rd bolt is as good as any rock in the park! Get a decent rest and begin the 2nd crux passing the 4th bolt. The crux is outright powerful but at least features decent holds. After the cruxes, work your way up the last 3 bolts of 5.11- climbing.

A unique experience. After tiptoeing past the bottom 20ft of "shattered rubble"(stick clip highly recomended as I think you could spend all day pulling 10 lb to 50 lb chunks out of the start), the rock turns solid as you enter a long section of liebacking. At the end of the lieback make a long reach to another crack system, this is potentially the hardest move on a redpoint burn. The technical crux comes higher, after a complete rest on the flake move up and right to good huecos just below the roof, clip the last bolt and find a good pocket out left and finish it out.

One of the most aesthetic lines at smith. The only fitting description is, MEGA! Starts in a somewhat awkward corner before clearing the first roof on good holds. Rest up before the second roof and the technical crux, sequential pockety crimps to a decent rest below the third roof. Traverse using either face holds or underclinging the roof, whichever feels better to you and prepare yourself for the redpoint crux, the massive pump generated while cranking good holds to the chains.

While obviously not as classic as Tsunami, this variation is a great option if your looking for a slightly easier tick.

Begin on Riptide, clipping the first three bolts. Traverse hard left into the final roof of Tsunami. The traverse is not trivial and requires an attentive belay. This part is fairly reachy and will probably require some crappy intermediates if you don't have the wingspan. Finish on Tsunami; this is the section that makes the climb 5.12.

Punchy little bouldery route on the far right end of Shipwreck Wall. Scramble up to belay platform with a fixed hanger. Swing your way up weird pockets and flakes before a hard throw right at the chains.

The aesthetic left facing flake at the very top of the gully. Awesome climbing in a great position. Classic.

Fun climbing on mostly jugs with a corner and a bulge to keep things interesting. Newish route for Smith. Belayer should wear a helmut.

Starts up a ramp then step left around the arete (crux) to an easier hanging slab. Bolts leads to the anchors

First pitch of Time to Power. Added as a separate single pitch because that's how most people climb it. Fun 5.9 climbing on mostly jugs. First bolt is a bit high - stick clip it.

Shipwreck Wall River Face - just uphill and to the right of Time to Power. Short slab with a small bulge.

Start on Badman and end on White Wedding.

Same start as White Wedding.