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Description

Great moderate to hard sport climbing on a deceptively steep and sustained wall. A good apprenticeship for 'Jailhouse Rock'.

This crag is on private property, and the Access Fund have negotiated access provided climbers strictly adhere to these rules:

  • No music and keep all noise to a minimum
  • Respect other users and consider climbing elsewhere to avoid overcrowding
  • No fires – high fire danger area
  • No overnight use
  • No littering – pack in, pack out

Note that excessive noise (shouting) was the primary reason the land owner became concerned about climbing in the first place, so please be especially diligent about the first rule.

Also due to the particular private property sensitivities please do not add topos to this crag.

Access issues

Gold Wall is on private property. Climber access is fragile. If you visit this area please do your best to limit noise levels, pack out trash and no fires. Access Fund and local climbers are actively working with the land owners on this project. Please keep a low profile and be respectful.

History

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Discovered and developed through the early to mid 2000s.

Routes

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Grade Route

The wall to the right of the vague right leaning arete, with a large oak at the base (shady belays).

Start on high ledge right of oak tree. Blocky climbing on dirty black rock trending slightly left to a double chain & fixed biner lower off.

Start at oak tree. More blocky climbing on that dirty black rock to double muzzy hook lower off.

Easily up the columns, then great climbing on gorgeous orange rock to double muzzy hook lower off.

Just left of 'Warm Up 3'. More great climbing to a double muzzy hook lower off just left of the lower off on 'Warm Up 3'.

It's possible to lead either 'Warm Up 3' or 'Warm Up 4' then reach sideways to set a top rope on the other.

Just left of 'Warm Up 4' - last route before the vague right-leaning arete. Easily up the columns, then a slightly dangerous crux (ledge fall potential) off the ledge past 2 close-spaced bolts - the sustained crux make them difficult to clip.

Getting off the ledge is desperate if you're short - make sure you clip the oddly placed low bolt to prevent a ground fall if you can't reach the first "real" bolt. Double muzzy hook lower off.

It's possible to set a top-rope on this route by lowering off from 'Warm Up 4' and moving left on the obvious ledge to the anchors.

The sweeping orange wall in the middle of the crag. Many of the harder routes here sport fixed "permadraws", and some of the routes require a 70m rope to safely lower off.

The right trending corner. Apparently a bit weird.

The access track reaches the cliff here.

Activity

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