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Access issues inherited from Tennessee Wall

Beware of theft from carpark and campsite. There is camping, but it is primitive, no toilets, shower water.

Approach

When the trail hits the waterfall, follow it to the right. Everything to the right of the waterfall is T Wall East. Climbs for this area are listed starting from this area, ascending as you move further away from the waterfall.

Ethic inherited from Tennessee Wall

Primarily trad with good quality bolts for belays. Some of the harder (5.11+ ) climbs are bolted.

Routes

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Grade Route

Strenuous Crack

One of the best sport routes in the South

Follow a pretty white dihedral then traverse right to an insecure stance. Follow airy finger crack left out roof to its end.

A classic climb!!! Quite easy climbing, very easy pro, but strenuous around the roof sections. Its an awesome feeling swinging out over the air around the various roofs. Hard to find it when its dry or open.

Highly Recommended!

Right around the corner from Art. Follows an easy dihedral corner, has hand jamming, face climbing, pulling a small roof. Good climb, good for a beginner leader. Bolted anchor is bit set back on the ledge, better to rap down if you care about your rope.

Same bolted anchor as Plastic Toys.

FA: Jack Noonan, Tim Williams & Curtis Sharp

FA: J. Noonan, T. Williams & C. Sharp

A face climb with a fun start straight off the obvious boulder that you see as you walk down the path. Good pro, good beginner lead. Bolted anchor.

FA: Bear Thurman & Fritz Lovingood

Start 10ft right of Platic Toys / Wild Hair. Climb a corner to a small roof. Continue up a crack and another roof to the top.

Ascend the sweet finger crack up to the roof section. Hurly underclings then pop yourself out onto the face. Very fun but physical move. The only downside to this climb is that it is not sustained, but think of the easy romp to the top as a reward for all your hard work pulling the roof!!! The top section can be done on all passive gear.

FA: Marvin Webb

Great climb that starts with a challenging highball fingerlocking boulder problem - although it can be protected. The variation of jams, lie backs and face footers makes the top a great climb. Easy to protect with generally clean falls.

FA: B. Ordner, R. Britton & T. Bracken

FA: Steve Goins & Truly Bracken

FA: Forrest Gardner & Rob Robinson

FA: Curt Merchant

FA: Rob Robinson & Robyn Erbesfield

FA: Pat Perrin & Curt Merchant

FA: Oliver Muff & Mark Thompson

FA: Shannon Stegg, Robyn Erbesfield & Rob Robinson

Climb a wide crack with a wedged block. Move right and up the right face of an arete to the top.

Climb on good holds, but poort protection, trending right to a prominent arete. Climb the arete, step left and finish up Three Stars From God.

FA: R. Robinson & Tim Cumbo

An ok first pitch up to a tree with some decent jamming. The second pitch is a beauty, jam your way up to the roof and then strap in for the ride. A very fun lead with good protection.

FA: Ed & Karen Clark

Intense slabby face with a narrow finger crack midway up. Shares anchors with Passages.

Very sustained crack climb on a dihedral. Great jamming practice.

Mixed. Boulder into a scoop and up an arete over boulds. Go right around a block.

Difficult to protect and easy to fall off. Make the clip or take the trip.

Monkey out on break, then pull that roof baby. Follow the crack up the face.

FA: Robyn Ebersfield, Shannon Stegg & Rob Robinson

A classic at the grade. Very difficult lay back but a 5.9 jam. Very sustained. #4 helps to protect the crux.

FA: Bob Ordner, Roy Briton & Rob Robinson

Start 10 ft right of In Pursuit Of Excellence. Follow bolts over a bulge and up the orange face to anchors.

Death defying lead, but a popular toprope.

Super sustained and popular finger crack. A tricky start with intense finger locks. Very popular!

A good first crack climbing lead, but maybe not a first trad lead. Jamming with the option to layback.

Follows the crack just off from the wall which has another smaller finger crack.

FA: Jay Dautcher

Excellent hand jam crack for the aspiring leader. Climb a long, jagged crack and wanter to the top or step left and finish on Jay Walker.

FA: Bruce Rodgers & Mike Wright

Powerful jamming, steep rock and great protection. Pull low roofs and follow a hand and finger crack up a smooth wall to a ring anchor.

Difficult no feet on Boulder start to a ledge. Short corner crack, somewhere between hands width and something bigger. Pretty nice dihedral with a shallow crack after that.

Apelike climbing on good holds. It is best to stick clip the second bolt. It is possible to deck clipping the third bolt.

Pull two small roofs, then up a narrow right facing corner. Move right towards a large roof and finish up a long left facing corner to the top. Note: Small brass or steel nuts required.

Start 10ft right of Calves Of Steel. Scale a left facing corner to an imposing roof. Move right underneath to crack in the lip, then follow a long, left facing corner, pass a small tree to the top.

Traverse onto arete.

Start on the rock spike.

Follow thin parallel cracks, then step left to the arete. Move right near the top and finish in a small, right facing corner.

Follow a vertical crack past a pine tree, then up a tricky face. Traverse left (runout) into a hole/scoop.

Easy climbing up into the cave / cutout. Pull the move up over the roof into a rest stance on finger locks. Get amped up, protect well and go for it!!! Finger lock your way up to the crux section which can be done a variety of ways. Very cool climb!!! Slightly short though.

Excellent climbing with an exposed finish. Start to left with a short traverse, or directly to the right, either way ending up in a short chimney. Exit the chimney and following the left arching flake to the top. This is a great climb for someone entering the grade, well protected with good rests.

FA: P. Henley & R. Robinson

Fantastic, sustained finger crack. The start is fun, crux through the roof and then a brilliant finish. Have fun, but beware the lines! This climb, along with its neighbours to the left and right are very popular.

Mixed

One of the few hand cracks at T Wall that's on a face. A burly start to pull the overhang followed by very sustained and challenging hand crack. A must do.

Follow a long, discontinuous system of cracks to a 2' roof. Step left and finish on Golden Locks.

Despite a scrubbly start, it still gets 3 stars. A treasure worth searching for. Mountaineer to a small ledge. Proceed up a perfect corner/hand crack, stemming right at the top to a pine tree. Note that a 60m comes up too short on rappel.

Frequent flyer territory. Pull a roof and proceed up an arete to a pine tree.

Fantastic finger crack climbing on perfect rock. Pull a small overhang via a shallow crack. Step left and up a left facing corner. Jam a perfect crack to the top.

FA: nathan steele

Activity

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