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Table of contents

1. Tennessee Wall 135 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -85.416133, 35.071168

Unique Features And Strengths:

Crack climbing.

Description:

Crack climbing heaven! Is this the Indian Creek of the East? Well maybe not, but bring your tape because this is almost exclusively sustained crack climbing.

Access Issues:

Beware of theft from carpark and campsite. There is camping, but it is primitive, no toilets, shower water.

Approach:

About a 20-30 min walk up a moderate incline to the base of the cliffs. Once you hit the waterfall at the cliffline the climbs start straight away.

Ethic:

Primarily trad with good quality bolts for belays. Some of the harder (5.11 + ) climbs are bolted.

1.1. T Wall South 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Where Lizards go to Die 5.10a Unknown 80ft
2 ** Circus Circus 5.8 Unknown 110ft
3 *** Talon 5.8 Unknown 130ft
4 A Turn of the Page 5.10b Sport
5 sole searcher 5.6 Trad 60ft

1.2. T Wall North 130 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -85.403757, 35.070337

Approach:

When the trail hits the waterfall, follow it to the right. Everything to the right of the waterfall is T Wall North. Climbs for this area are listed starting from this area, ascending as you move further away from the waterfall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Hands Across America

Strenuous Crack

5.12c Trad 80ft
2 * Abortion Contortion 5.13a Sport 80ft
3 *** Twistin' In The Wind

One of the best sport routes in the South

5.12c Sport 60ft, 8
4 Meeker Rat 5.12d Sport 70ft
5 * Paleface 5.12c Sport 70ft
6 * Turbo Zone 5.11c Trad 100ft
7 ** Grand Contusion

Follow a pretty white dihedral then traverse right to an insecure stance. Follow airy finger crack left out roof to its end.

5.13b Trad 60ft
8 Swiss Family Robinson 5.13b Sport 80ft
9 ** Squatter's Rites 5.10d Trad 90ft
10 * All Rites Reserved 5.11a Trad 80ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 ** Art

A classic climb!!! Quite easy climbing, very easy pro, but strenuous around the roof sections. Its an awesome feeling swinging out over the air around the various roofs. Hard to find it when its dry or open.

5.8 Trad 90ft
12 * Ruby Fruit Jungle 5.13a Sport 80ft
13 *** Sugar In The Raw

Highly Recommended!

5.11a Trad 85ft
14 History Of My Heart 5.12b Trad 85ft
15 * Curb Sandwich 5.12a Sport 50ft
16 * Sly Willie Snores 5.11a Trad 80ft
17 * Changnurdle 5.11a Trad 90ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 ** Tweeter And The Monkey Man 5.10c Trad 90ft
19 Nappy

Right around the corner from Art. Follows an easy dihedral corner, has hand jamming, face climbing, pulling a small roof. Good climb, good for a beginner leader.

5.7 Trad 82ft
20 New Beginnings 5.5 Trad 89ft
21 Ain't So Eazy

FA: Jack Noonan, Tim Williams, Curtis Sharp

FA: J. Noonan, T. Williams and C. Sharp

5.9 Trad 82ft
22 Plastic Toys

A face climb with a fun start straight off the obvious boulder that you see as you walk down the path. Good pro, good beginner lead.

5.7 Trad 80ft
23 Wild Hair

FA: Bear Thurman and Fritz Lovingood

5.9 Trad 82ft
24 Bin Laden Been Fooled

Start 10ft right of Platic Toys / Wild Hair. Climb a corner to a small roof. Continue up a crack and another roof to the top.

5.10b Trad 80ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 * March Hare

Ascend the sweet finger crack up to the roof section. Hurly underclings then pop yourself out onto the face. Very fun but physical move. The only downside to this climb is that it is not sustained, but think of the easy romp to the top as a reward for all your hard work pulling the roof!!! The top section can be done on all passive gear.

5.10a Trad 82ft
26 Afghanistan Goat Man 5.9 Trad 80ft
27 * Multiple Use Area

FA: Marvin Webb

5.9 Trad 82ft
28 *** Prerequisite for Excellence

Great climb that starts with a challenging highball fingerlocking boulder problem - although it can be protected. The variation of jams, lie backs and face footers makes the top a great climb. Easy to protect with generally clean falls.

FA: B. Ordner, R. Britton and T. Bracken

5.8 Trad 82ft
29 *** Love Handle 5.10b Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 ** Short Arm Inspection

FA: Steve Goins and Truly Bracken

5.11b Trad 92ft
31 ** No More Tiers

FA: Forrest Gardner and Rob Robinson

5.11 Trad 92ft
32 ** Morning Sickness

FA: Curt Merchant

5.11 Trad 92ft
33 *** Infinite Pursuit

FA: Rob Robinson and Robyn Erbesfield

5.10 Trad 82ft
34 ** Standard Deviation

FA: Pat Perrin and Curt Merchant

5.10 Trad 82ft
35 * Sunday Gardening

FA: Oliver Muff and Mark Thompson

5.8 Trad 82ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
36 * Totem Pole

FA: Shannon Stegg, Robyn Erbesfield and Rob Robinson

5.9 Trad 82ft
37 * Contents Under Pressure

Climb a wide crack with a wedged block. Move right and up the right face of an arete to the top.

5.9 Trad 80ft
38 * True Colors 5.8 Trad 80ft
39 ** Three Stars From God 5.11a Trad 100ft
40 * Kid Fears

Climb on good holds, but poort protection, trending right to a prominent arete. Climb the arete, step left and finish up Three Stars From God.

5.9 Trad 100ft
41 * Creaky Tweaks 5.10b Mixed 100ft, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
42 * Wing and a Prayer

FA: R. Robinson and Tim Cumbo

5.10d Trad 30ft
43 * Let's Face It

An ok first pitch up to a tree with some decent jamming. The second pitch is a beauty, jam your way up to the roof and then strap in for the ride. A very fun lead with good protection.

FA: Ed and Karen Clark

5.7 Trad 100ft 2
44 ** Steeplechase 5.11c Trad
45 *** Superslide

Intense slabby face with a narrow finger crack midway up. Shares anchors with Passages.

5.10b Trad 100ft
46 ** The Sweep 5.10a Trad
47 *** Passages

Very sustained crack climb on a dihedral. Great jamming practice.

5.8 Trad 100ft
48 ** Don't Tell A Soul

Mixed. Boulder into a scoop and up an arete over boulds. Go right around a block.

5.10d Trad 100ft
49 * Shiva's Last Dance 5.9 Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
50 * Seam Like Nothing 5.12a Trad 50ft
51 False Alarm 5.9 Trad 100ft
52 * Sanscrit 5.8 Trad 60ft
53 ** Day's Work 5.10b Trad 90ft
54 Night Shift 5.10d Trad 90ft
55 ** Proof Of Purchase 5.11 Trad 60ft
56 Pinga Boys 5.9 Trad 80ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
57 ** Clip And Trip

Difficult to protect and easy to fall off. Make the clip or take the trip.

5.11b Trad 100ft
58 * Finagle

Monkey out on break, then pull that roof baby. Follow the crack up the face.

FA: Robyn Ebersfield, Shannon Stegg and Rob Robinson

5.9 Trad 50ft
59 My Lost China Doll 5.9 Trad 90ft
60 * Dirt Bag 5.8 Trad 89ft
61 *** In Pursuit of Excellence

A classic at the grade. Very difficult lay back but a 5.9 jam. Very sustained. #4 helps to protect the crux.

FA: Bob Ordner, Roy Briton and Rob Robinson

5.9 Trad 90ft
62 ** The Litto

Start 10 ft right of In Pursuit Of Excellence. Follow bolts over a bulge and up the orange face to anchors.

5.12b Sport 60ft
63 ** Guardian Of The Gate 5.10c Trad 90ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
64 *** Scamper Proof 5.12b Trad 66ft
65 ** Points O' Contact 5.10c Trad 89ft
66 ** Slay Ride

Death defying lead, but a popular toprope.

5.11b Trad 90ft
67 *** Finger Lockin' Good

Super sustained and popular finger crack. A tricky start with intense finger locks. Very popular!

5.10c Trad 50ft
68 * Jay Walker

A good first crack climbing lead, but maybe not a first trad lead. Jamming with the option to layback.

Follows the crack just off from the wall which has another smaller finger crack.

FA: Jay Dautcher

5.7 Trad 90ft
69 * Restless Pedestrian

Excellent hand jam crack for the aspiring leader. Climb a long, jagged crack and wanter to the top or step left and finish on Jay Walker.

5.8 Trad 90ft
70 * Exposed Aggregate

FA: Bruce Rodgers, Mike Wright

5.7 Trad 89ft
71 * Digital Delight 5.9 Trad
72 * Frenzy 5.11c Trad 100ft
73 ** Fear On Ice 5.12c Trad 50ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
74 *** Fly With The Falcon

Powerful jamming, steep rock and great protection. Pull low roofs and follow a hand and finger crack up a smooth wall to a ring anchor.

5.11b Trad 50ft
75 ** The Heaven Of Animals 5.11a Trad 100ft
76 ** Puppy Ride

Difficult no feet on Boulder start to a ledge. Short corner crack, somewhere between hands width and something bigger. Pretty nice dihedral with a shallow crack after that.

5.9 Trad 100ft
77 * Steel Puppies 5.10d Trad 100ft
78 Chocolate Puppies 5.10a Trad 110ft
79 *** Gift Of Power

Apelike climbing on good holds. It is best to stick clip the second bolt. It is possible to deck clipping the third bolt.

5.12a Sport 100ft
80 ** Calves Of Steel

Pull two small roofs, then up a narrow right facing corner. Move right towards a large roof and finish up a long left facing corner to the top. Note: Small brass or steel nuts required.

5.11c Trad 100ft
81 ** Reptile Analysis

Start 10ft right of Calves Of Steel. Scale a left facing corner to an imposing roof. Move right underneath to crack in the lip, then follow a long, left facing corner, pass a small tree to the top.

5.10b Trad 100ft
82 Reptile Paralysis

Traverse onto arete.

5.10c Trad 120ft
83 * Hold Your Horses! 5.11b Trad 100ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
84 *** Stone Wave 5.11b Trad
85 * Molly And Rocket

Start on the rock spike.

5.8 Trad 100ft
86 * Who Needs A Thnead? 5.10a Trad 100ft
87 A Tension Span 5.9 Trad 90ft
88 *** Surf's Up 5.11d Sport 80ft
89 ** Crash Position 5.9 Trad
90 ** Defcon Five

Follow thin parallel cracks, then step left to the arete. Move right near the top and finish in a small, right facing corner.

5.11a Trad 90ft
91 ** Mean Cuisine

Follow a vertical crack past a pine tree, then up a tricky face. Traverse left (runout) into a hole/scoop.

5.10b Trad 100ft
92 * Over The Hills And Far Away 5.9 Trad 90ft
93 Blind Date 5.7 Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
94 *** Digital Macabre

Easy climbing up into the cave / cutout. Pull the move up over the roof into a rest stance on finger locks. Get amped up, protect well and go for it!!! Finger lock your way up to the crux section which can be done a variety of ways. Very cool climb!!! Slightly short though.

5.10b Trad 75ft
95 ** Fill In The Blanks 5.10a Trad 100ft
96 *** Razor Worm

Excellent climbing with an exposed finish. Start to left with a short traverse, or directly to the right, either way ending up in a short chimney. Exit the chimney and following the left arching flake to the top. This is a great climb for someone entering the grade, well protected with good rests.

FA: P. Henley and R. Robinson

5.9 Trad 100ft
97 *** Cakewalk

Fantastic, sustained finger crack. The start is fun, crux through the roof and then a brilliant finish. Have fun, but beware the lines! This climb, along with its neighbours to the left and right are very popular.

5.10a Trad 100ft
98 * Fingernails On A Chalk Board 5.12a Trad 100ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
99 ** Competitive Edge

Mixed

5.11c Mixed 100ft, 5
100 *** Golden Locks

One of the few hand cracks at T Wall that's on a face. A burly start to pull the overhang followed by very sustained and challenging hand crack. A must do.

5.8 Trad 100ft
101 ** Gravity Creeps

Follow a long, discontinuous system of cracks to a 2' roof. Step left and finish on Golden Locks.

5.10c Trad 100ft
102 Greenwich Graden Party 5.9 Trad 100ft
103 ** Some Girls 5.12b Trad 85ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
104 ** Nutrasweet 5.7 Trad 98ft
105 ** Sun King 5.12a Sport 80ft
106 *** Margin of Profit 5.9 Trad
107 *** Hidden Assets

Despite a scrubbly start, it still gets 3 stars. A treasure worth searching for. Mountaineer to a small ledge. Proceed up a perfect corner/hand crack, stemming right at the top to a pine tree. Note that a 60m comes up too short on rappel.

5.10a Trad 110ft
108 ** Point Of Departure

Frequent flyer territory. Pull a roof and proceed up an arete to a pine tree.

5.10d Trad 70ft
109 *** Steepopolis 5.12a Trad 100ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
110 *** Mrs. Socrates 5.12b Trad 110ft
111 *** Defender Of The Crown 5.13a Sport 90ft
112 ** Electric Rats 5.10c Trad
113 ** Bugs From Hell 5.11c Trad 110ft
114 * Motor Booty 5.9 Trad 110ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
115 ** Grandma's Couch 5.11a Trad 100ft 2
116 * Time Takes A Cigarette 5.9 Trad 80ft
117 * Saint Valentines Day Massacre 5.11d Trad 60ft
118 * Exodus 5.10c Trad 60ft
119 * Genesis 5.10c Trad 60ft
120 * Slug Trail 5.8 Trad 50ft
121 Full Belly In Hell 5.10b Trad 80ft
122 *** Hungry For Heaven

Fantastic finger crack climbing on perfect rock. Pull a small overhang via a shallow crack. Step left and up a left facing corner. Jam a perfect crack to the top.

5.10d Trad 80ft
123 * Board Walk 5.10c Trad 70ft
124 The Garden 5.7 Trad 79ft
125 Crazy Hooker (Matt's Mom) 5.9 Trad 70ft
126 * Corner Pockets 5.10a Trad 40ft
127 *** Precious Orr 5.10a Trad 79ft
128 *** Golden Gloves 5.10c Trad
129 I'm Late 5.7 Trad
130 ** friends of the family

FA: nathan steele

V4 Trad 33ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.5 New Beginnings Trad 89ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.6 sole searcher Trad 60ft 1.1. T Wall South
5.7 Blind Date Trad 1.2. T Wall North
* Exposed Aggregate Trad 89ft 1.2. T Wall North
I'm Late Trad 1.2. T Wall North
* Jay Walker Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Let's Face It Trad 100ft 2 1.2. T Wall North
Nappy Trad 82ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Nutrasweet Trad 98ft 1.2. T Wall North
Plastic Toys Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
The Garden Trad 79ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.8 ** Circus Circus Unknown 110ft 1.1. T Wall South
*** Talon Unknown 130ft 1.1. T Wall South
** Art Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Dirt Bag Trad 89ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Golden Locks Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Molly And Rocket Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Passages Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Prerequisite for Excellence Trad 82ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Restless Pedestrian Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Sanscrit Trad 60ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Slug Trail Trad 50ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Sunday Gardening Trad 82ft 1.2. T Wall North
* True Colors Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.9 A Tension Span Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
Afghanistan Goat Man Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
Ain't So Eazy Trad 82ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Contents Under Pressure Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Crash Position Trad 1.2. T Wall North
Crazy Hooker (Matt's Mom) Trad 70ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Digital Delight Trad 1.2. T Wall North
False Alarm Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Finagle Trad 50ft 1.2. T Wall North
Greenwich Graden Party Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** In Pursuit of Excellence Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Kid Fears Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Margin of Profit Trad 1.2. T Wall North
* Motor Booty Trad 110ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Multiple Use Area Trad 82ft 1.2. T Wall North
My Lost China Doll Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Over The Hills And Far Away Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
Pinga Boys Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Puppy Ride Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Razor Worm Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Shiva's Last Dance Trad 1.2. T Wall North
* Time Takes A Cigarette Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Totem Pole Trad 82ft 1.2. T Wall North
Wild Hair Trad 82ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.10a *** Where Lizards go to Die Unknown 80ft 1.1. T Wall South
*** Cakewalk Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
Chocolate Puppies Trad 110ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Corner Pockets Trad 40ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Fill In The Blanks Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Hidden Assets Trad 110ft 1.2. T Wall North
* March Hare Trad 82ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Precious Orr Trad 79ft 1.2. T Wall North
** The Sweep Trad 1.2. T Wall North
* Who Needs A Thnead? Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.10b A Turn of the Page Sport 1.1. T Wall South
Bin Laden Been Fooled Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Creaky Tweaks Mixed 100ft, 4 1.2. T Wall North
** Day's Work Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Digital Macabre Trad 75ft 1.2. T Wall North
Full Belly In Hell Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Love Handle Trad 1.2. T Wall North
** Mean Cuisine Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Reptile Analysis Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Superslide Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.10c * Board Walk Trad 70ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Electric Rats Trad 1.2. T Wall North
* Exodus Trad 60ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Finger Lockin' Good Trad 50ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Genesis Trad 60ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Golden Gloves Trad 1.2. T Wall North
** Gravity Creeps Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Guardian Of The Gate Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Points O' Contact Trad 89ft 1.2. T Wall North
Reptile Paralysis Trad 120ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Tweeter And The Monkey Man Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.10 B ** Standard Deviation Trad 82ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.10 D *** Infinite Pursuit Trad 82ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.10d ** Don't Tell A Soul Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Hungry For Heaven Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
Night Shift Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Point Of Departure Trad 70ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Squatter's Rites Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Steel Puppies Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Wing and a Prayer Trad 30ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.11a * All Rites Reserved Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Changnurdle Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Defcon Five Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Grandma's Couch Trad 100ft 2 1.2. T Wall North
* Sly Willie Snores Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Sugar In The Raw Trad 85ft 1.2. T Wall North
** The Heaven Of Animals Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Three Stars From God Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.11b ** Clip And Trip Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Fly With The Falcon Trad 50ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Hold Your Horses! Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Short Arm Inspection Trad 92ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Slay Ride Trad 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Stone Wave Trad 1.2. T Wall North
5.11c ** Bugs From Hell Trad 110ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Calves Of Steel Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Competitive Edge Mixed 100ft, 5 1.2. T Wall North
* Frenzy Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Steeplechase Trad 1.2. T Wall North
* Turbo Zone Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.11 ** Proof Of Purchase Trad 60ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.11 A ** Morning Sickness Trad 92ft 1.2. T Wall North
** No More Tiers Trad 92ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.11d * Saint Valentines Day Massacre Trad 60ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Surf's Up Sport 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
V4 ** friends of the family Trad 33ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.12a * Curb Sandwich Sport 50ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Fingernails On A Chalk Board Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Gift Of Power Sport 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Seam Like Nothing Trad 50ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Steepopolis Trad 100ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Sun King Sport 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.12b History Of My Heart Trad 85ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Mrs. Socrates Trad 110ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Scamper Proof Trad 66ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Some Girls Trad 85ft 1.2. T Wall North
** The Litto Sport 60ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.12c ** Fear On Ice Trad 50ft 1.2. T Wall North
** Hands Across America Trad 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Paleface Sport 70ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Twistin' In The Wind Sport 60ft, 8 1.2. T Wall North
5.12d Meeker Rat Sport 70ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.13a * Abortion Contortion Sport 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
*** Defender Of The Crown Sport 90ft 1.2. T Wall North
* Ruby Fruit Jungle Sport 80ft 1.2. T Wall North
5.13b ** Grand Contusion Trad 60ft 1.2. T Wall North
Swiss Family Robinson Sport 80ft 1.2. T Wall North