A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: -85.416133, 35.071168
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Crack climbing heaven! Is this the Indian Creek of the East? Well maybe not, but bring your tape because this is almost exclusively sustained crack climbing.
- Access Issues:
Beware of theft from carpark and campsite. There is camping, but it is primitive, no toilets, shower water.
About a 20-30 min walk up a moderate incline to the base of the cliffs. Once you hit the waterfall at the cliffline the climbs start straight away.
Primarily trad with good quality bolts for belays. Some of the harder (5.11 + ) climbs are bolted.
Unknown, Trad and Sport
|1||Where Lizards go to Die||5.10a||80ft|
|4||A Turn of the Page||5.10b|
Long/Lat: -85.403757, 35.070337
When the trail hits the waterfall, follow it to the right. Everything to the right of the waterfall is T Wall North. Climbs for this area are listed starting from this area, ascending as you move further away from the waterfall.
Hands Across America
Twistin' In The Wind
One of the best sport routes in the South
Follow a pretty white dihedral then traverse right to an insecure stance. Follow airy finger crack left out roof to its end.
|8||Swiss Family Robinson||5.13b||80ft|
|10||All Rites Reserved||5.11a||80ft|
A classic climb!!! Quite easy climbing, very easy pro, but strenuous around the roof sections. Its an awesome feeling swinging out over the air around the various roofs. Hard to find it when its dry or open.
|12||Ruby Fruit Jungle||5.13a||80ft|
Sugar In The Raw
|14||History Of My Heart||5.12b||85ft|
|16||Sly Willie Snores||5.11a||80ft|
|18||Tweeter And The Monkey Man||5.10c||90ft|
Right around the corner from Art. Follows an easy dihedral corner, has hand jamming, face climbing, pulling a small roof. Good climb, good for a beginner leader.
Ain't So Eazy
FA: Jack Noonan, Tim Williams, Curtis Sharp
FA: J. Noonan, T. Williams and C. Sharp
A face climb with a fun start straight off the obvious boulder that you see as you walk down the path. Good pro, good beginner lead.
FA: Bear Thurman and Fritz Lovingood
Bin Laden Been Fooled
Start 10ft right of Platic Toys / Wild Hair. Climb a corner to a small roof. Continue up a crack and another roof to the top.
Ascend the sweet finger crack up to the roof section. Hurly underclings then pop yourself out onto the face. Very fun but physical move. The only downside to this climb is that it is not sustained, but think of the easy romp to the top as a reward for all your hard work pulling the roof!!! The top section can be done on all passive gear.
|26||Afghanistan Goat Man||5.9||80ft|
Multiple Use Area
FA: Marvin Webb
Prerequisite for Excellence
Great climb that starts with a challenging highball fingerlocking boulder problem - although it can be protected. The variation of jams, lie backs and face footers makes the top a great climb. Easy to protect with generally clean falls.
FA: B. Ordner, R. Britton and T. Bracken
Short Arm Inspection
FA: Steve Goins and Truly Bracken
No More Tiers
FA: Forrest Gardner and Rob Robinson
FA: Curt Merchant
FA: Rob Robinson and Robyn Erbesfield
FA: Pat Perrin and Curt Merchant
FA: Oliver Muff and Mark Thompson
FA: Shannon Stegg, Robyn Erbesfield and Rob Robinson
Contents Under Pressure
Climb a wide crack with a wedged block. Move right and up the right face of an arete to the top.
|39||Three Stars From God||5.11a||100ft|
Climb on good holds, but poort protection, trending right to a prominent arete. Climb the arete, step left and finish up Three Stars From God.
Wing and a Prayer
FA: R. Robinson and Tim Cumbo
Let's Face It
An ok first pitch up to a tree with some decent jamming. The second pitch is a beauty, jam your way up to the roof and then strap in for the ride. A very fun lead with good protection.
FA: Ed and Karen Clark
Very sustained crack climb on a dihedral. Great jamming practice.
Don't Tell A Soul
Mixed. Boulder into a scoop and up an arete over boulds. Go right around a block.
|49||Shiva's Last Dance||5.9|
|50||Seam Like Nothing||5.12a||50ft|
|55||Proof Of Purchase||5.11||60ft|
Clip And Trip
Difficult to protect and easy to fall off. Make the clip or take the trip.
Monkey out on break, then pull that roof baby. Follow the crack up the face.
FA: Robyn Ebersfield, Shannon Stegg and Rob Robinson
|59||My Lost China Doll||5.9||90ft|
In Pursuit of Excellence
A classic at the grade. Very difficult lay back but a 5.9 jam. Very sustained. #4 helps to protect the crux.
FA: Bob Ordner, Roy Briton and Rob Robinson
Start 10 ft right of In Pursuit Of Excellence. Follow bolts over a bulge and up the orange face to anchors.
|63||Guardian Of The Gate||5.10c||90ft|
|65||Points O' Contact||5.10c||89ft|
Death defying lead, but a popular toprope.
Finger Lockin' Good
Super sustained and popular finger crack. A tricky start with intense finger locks. Very popular!
A good first crack climbing lead, but maybe not a first trad lead. Jamming with the option to layback.
Follows the crack just off from the wall which has another smaller finger crack.
FA: Jay Dautcher
Excellent hand jam crack for the aspiring leader. Climb a long, jagged crack and wanter to the top or step left and finish on Jay Walker.
FA: Bruce Rodgers, Mike Wright
|73||Fear On Ice||5.12c||50ft|
Fly With The Falcon
Powerful jamming, steep rock and great protection. Pull low roofs and follow a hand and finger crack up a smooth wall to a ring anchor.
|75||The Heaven Of Animals||5.11a||100ft|
Gift Of Power
Apelike climbing on good holds. It is best to stick clip the second bolt. It is possible to deck clipping the third bolt.
Calves Of Steel
Pull two small roofs, then up a narrow right facing corner. Move right towards a large roof and finish up a long left facing corner to the top. Note: Small brass or steel nuts required.
Start 10ft right of Calves Of Steel. Scale a left facing corner to an imposing roof. Move right underneath to crack in the lip, then follow a long, left facing corner, pass a small tree to the top.
Traverse onto arete.
|83||Hold Your Horses!||5.11b||100ft|
Molly And Rocket
Start on the rock spike.
|86||Who Needs A Thnead?||5.10a||100ft|
|87||A Tension Span||5.9||90ft|
Follow thin parallel cracks, then step left to the arete. Move right near the top and finish in a small, right facing corner.
Follow a vertical crack past a pine tree, then up a tricky face. Traverse left (runout) into a hole/scoop.
|92||Over The Hills And Far Away||5.9||90ft|
Easy climbing up into the cave / cutout. Pull the move up over the roof into a rest stance on finger locks. Get amped up, protect well and go for it!!! Finger lock your way up to the crux section which can be done a variety of ways. Very cool climb!!! Slightly short though.
|95||Fill In The Blanks||5.10a||100ft|
Excellent climbing with an exposed finish. Start to left with a short traverse, or directly to the right, either way ending up in a short chimney. Exit the chimney and following the left arching flake to the top. This is a great climb for someone entering the grade, well protected with good rests.
FA: P. Henley and R. Robinson
Fantastic, sustained finger crack. The start is fun, crux through the roof and then a brilliant finish. Have fun, but beware the lines! This climb, along with its neighbours to the left and right are very popular.
|98||Fingernails On A Chalk Board||5.12a||100ft|
One of the few hand cracks at T Wall that's on a face. A burly start to pull the overhang followed by very sustained and challenging hand crack. A must do.
Follow a long, discontinuous system of cracks to a 2' roof. Step left and finish on Golden Locks.
|102||Greenwich Graden Party||5.9||100ft|
|106||Margin of Profit||5.9|
Despite a scrubbly start, it still gets 3 stars. A treasure worth searching for. Mountaineer to a small ledge. Proceed up a perfect corner/hand crack, stemming right at the top to a pine tree. Note that a 60m comes up too short on rappel.
Point Of Departure
Frequent flyer territory. Pull a roof and proceed up an arete to a pine tree.
|111||Defender Of The Crown||5.13a||90ft|
|113||Bugs From Hell||5.11c||110ft|
|116||Time Takes A Cigarette||5.9||80ft|
|117||Saint Valentines Day Massacre||5.11d||60ft|
|121||Full Belly In Hell||5.10b||80ft|
Hungry For Heaven
Fantastic finger crack climbing on perfect rock. Pull a small overhang via a shallow crack. Step left and up a left facing corner. Jam a perfect crack to the top.
|125||Crazy Hooker (Matt's Mom)||5.9||70ft|
friends of the family
FA: nathan steele