Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Tennessee 907 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -86.681464, 35.857041

1.1. Tennessee Wall 135 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -85.416133, 35.071168

Unique Features And Strengths:

Crack climbing.

Description:

Crack climbing heaven! Is this the Indian Creek of the East? Well maybe not, but bring your tape because this is almost exclusively sustained crack climbing.

Access Issues:

Beware of theft from carpark and campsite. There is camping, but it is primitive, no toilets, shower water.

Approach:

About a 20-30 min walk up a moderate incline to the base of the cliffs. Once you hit the waterfall at the cliffline the climbs start straight away.

Ethic:

Primarily trad with good quality bolts for belays. Some of the harder (5.11 + ) climbs are bolted.

1.1.1. T Wall South 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

1.1.2. T Wall North 130 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -85.403757, 35.070337

Approach:

When the trail hits the waterfall, follow it to the right. Everything to the right of the waterfall is T Wall North. Climbs for this area are listed starting from this area, ascending as you move further away from the waterfall.

1.2. Obed National Park 131 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -84.651390, 36.066861

Unique Features And Strengths:

Characterized by tiered overhung sandstone roofs with great holds.

Where To Stay:

Del & Mar's primitive, but very warm and friendly campground, located near the intersection of Doc Howard Road and Ridge Road (see directions to South Clear Creek parking)

1.2.1. Lilly Bluff 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: -84.718570, 36.102045

1.2.2. Lilly Boulders 31 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.2.3. South Clear Creek 63 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -84.702763, 36.094046

Approach:

From Nashville: Take I-40 E towards Knoxville, take exit 320 for Genesis Road towards Crossville, go Left on Genesis Road, Sharp Right onto Potters Chapel Road, Left onto Hawn Road, Continue onto Ridge Road, Right onto Doc Howard Road, parking lot is on the right.

From Knoxville: Take I-40 W towards Nashville, take exit 376A to TN-162 N/Pellissippi Pkwy towards Oak Ridge/Maryville, Continue onto TN-62 / Oak Ridge Hwy, turn right and then eventually left to stay on TN-62 W / Nashville Hwy, Left onto Ridge Road, slight Right to stay on Ridge Road, Left onto Doc Howard Road, parking for crag is on the left.

Take the trail around and down about 2 miles to get to the rock. Once descended to the cliff, with your back to the cliff line, follow the rock to the left until you reach the fist wall of South Clear Creek, Image Wall.

1.2.4. Y12 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.2.5. Tierrany 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.2.6. Obed River 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3. Black Mountain 66 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope, Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: -84.892858, 35.866647

1.3.1. Graceland 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Top Rope

Long/Lat: -84.894881, 35.866578

1.3.2. The Maze 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Top Rope

1.3.3. Tityos Block 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.4. Candy Crack Block 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Top Rope

1.3.5. Overlook Area 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Top Rope

1.3.6. Punk Rock 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4. Nashville 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.1. Sunset Park 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5. Starr Mountain 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -84.506751, 35.236255

1.6. Foster Falls 154 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -85.681879, 35.178470

Description:

Foster Falls is a premier sport climbing destination in the South. The climbing is predominantly single pitch, bolted routes of varying styles. Slab, vertical, overhung, dihedrals and roof systems are all available here in a compact area close to camping. There is a small selection of trad climbs but beware of the fractured nature of the blocks, falls onto cams have dislodged large blocks before.

Approach:

Note: This area is still being updated and as such, the areas and climbs are not listed in the correct order.

From Chattanooga, head west on I-24 past Nickajack Lake and get off at exit 155 (about 20 miles). Head north following the signs to the town of Jasper. Passing through the town, follow the signs for TN150/US41 north toward Tracy City. A landmark (at least for now, since its out of business) is the Mountain Mart on the left as you continue on TN150. The entrance to Foster Falls is on the left about three miles past the Mountain Mart.

From the campsite, walk down the path located behind campsite number 8.

1.6.1. First Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -85.677076, 35.180229

Description:

This is the first part of the cliff that you will run to as you walk past the falls down the cliffline.

1.6.2. The White Wall 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -85.677712, 35.179682

Description:

200 foot past (to the left) the First Wall area which has 4 climbs on it. A beautiful looking, tall section of slightly overhanging cliff. Very impressive and slightly intimidating wall!

Note: Climbs are listed Right to Left looking at the wall.

1.6.3. So What Area 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -85.678171, 35.179348

Description:

At the extreme right end of the Crime Buttress. Four nice and short climbs up a smooth face with some cracks, pulling the rooflets.

Climbs listed from Right to Left looking at the wall.

1.6.4. Crime Buttress 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: -85.678570, 35.179189

1.6.5. Right Bunker 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -85.679037, 35.179286

Description:

Routes listed right to left looking at the wall.

1.6.6. Left Bunker 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -85.679437, 35.179184

1.6.7. Dihedrals 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -85.680378, 35.178954

Description:

Climbs listed right to left looking at the wall.

1.6.8. Jimmywood 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -85.682659, 35.177403

Description:

Short face climbing with some good but challenging climbs for a solid 5.9 climber. Also features some very tall climbs on a ledge system and the odd trad piece.

Approach:

'Bear Mountain Picnic' marks the start of this area when walking the low road from the waterfall. Take a short, well marked path up to the arete.

The rest of Jimmy Wood is along the bottom path and features a ledge with a few climbs above.

1.6.9. Gutbuster Area 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -85.683585, 35.176817

Description:

Routes listed Right to Left looking at cliff.

1.6.10. Sanford Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -85.683871, 35.176838

Description:

A great looking, orange, vertical wall with some classic routes.

Climbs listed from Right to Left looking at cliff.

1.6.11. Rocket Slab 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -85.684293, 35.176865

Description:

A small grey slab very popular with beginners. 'Gravity Boots' is a good beginner lead.

Climbs listed from right to left looking at the cliff.

Approach:

Best accessed from the high access path. Descend down Climbers Access 2. Walk time 30 mins.

1.6.12. Rehab Slab 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -85.685299, 35.176700

1.6.13. Snatch Wall 0 routes in Area

1.6.14. Red Light District 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -85.686317, 35.176640

Description:

This is a popular area that starts with an obvious, elevated ledge with some great beginner/moderate climbs. The left most climb on this ledge is 'Cold Shoulder' which is on the arete. The rest of the climbs can be found by following the trail.

Climbs listed right to left looking at the cliff.

Approach:

Climbers Access 2.

1.6.15. Dog Boy Village 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

1.6.16. Music City 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.17. Paradox Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.18. Wall of Useless Conflict 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

1.7. Sunset Park 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -85.358138, 34.994679

Approach:

Northern most approach to Sunset Park North is via Point Park. The trail that leads to the intersection of Sunset Park North and South is at the intersection of West Brow Road and Linden Road. If this carpark is full, park at the Commons and walk up, only takes about 10 mins.

1.8. Stone Door 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -85.650078, 35.439865

1.9. Grindstone 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.10. Little Rock City 79 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -85.206298, 35.248794

1.10.1. Wave Area 8 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.2. Slabs Area 13 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.3. Diesel Power Area 10 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.4. Jerry's Kids Area 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.5. Front Corridor 12 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.6. The Pinch Area 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.7. Super Mario Area 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.8. 45 Degree Boulder 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10.9. Back Nine 13 routes in Area

Summary:

1.11. Cherokee Bluffs 0 routes in Crag

1.12. King's Bluff 176 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: -87.322983, 36.501035

Unique Features And Strengths:

Good cooler weather crag as the cliffs get plenty of sun.

Description:

Short to medium height limestone walls displaying a range of limestone characteristics from crimpy sharp edges to rounded pipes. Not the most epic spot, but easy to get to.

Access Issues:

King's Bluff is owned and maintained by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition.

Approach:

This crag is actually in Clarksville, TN right above the Cumberland River. The entrance is located near the Max Court culdesac. It is a very short approach from the parking lot to the base of the cliffs. (A few minutes hike). From Max Ct go through the gate. Parking is at the end of the road where you can find the trail left of the bulletin board.

History:

Emmanuel "Eman" Lacoste published his 3rd Edition of "Little Crimpers, A Rock Climber's Guide To Clarksville, Tennessee. Vertasia: Lexington, KY, September 25, 2013.

1.12.1. Quiet Zone 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.12.2. The Alley 24 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.12.3. Lonesome Wall 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.12.4. Main Headwall Area 17 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.5. Walt's Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.12.6. Cake Walk Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.7. Dynamic Wall 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.8. The Orchard 28 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.9. High Water Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.10. The Beach 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.11. Politician Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.12. Horror Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12.13. Navigator Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.13. Student Park 0 routes in Crag

1.14. Leda 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -85.226902, 35.235531

1.14.1. Lower Leda 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

Lower Leda is located between the first big switchback going up the mountain. You can park in the Bowater Pocket Wilderness on the left.

1.14.2. Leda Main Area - Right 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -85.227510, 35.235751

1.14.3. Leda Main Area - Left 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: -85.230041, 35.236456

1.15. Lost Wall 0 routes in Crag

1.16. Green Way's Boulders 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -87.680154, 36.598451

1.17. Pot Point 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.17.1. Sandtown 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.17.2. Precious 3 routes in Area

Summary:

1.17.3. Twister 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.17.4. Alpha 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.18. The Big South Fork 0 routes in Crag

1.19. The Palisades 0 routes in Crag

1.20. Ozone Falls 0 routes in Crag