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Summary

Hard climbing on overhanging rock with slopy holds. Great for training strength.

Description

One-pitch routes on limestone, characterized by overhanging and difficult sport routes on slopers and pinches. A few 5.8 to 5.10 routes here, but most are above 5.11.

Access issues

From Hwy 54 at Alamogordo, turn East on Hwy 82 and drive toward Cloudcroft 7 miles. You'll see the tunnel through the mountain, and there is parking on the north and south sides of the road.

The Sunny Side is climbable throughout winter and the Shady Side stays cooler in summer. Sometimes the area is closed due to fire hazard, so check with local forestry authorities.

Approach

From the south side parking lot, follow the obvious trail up to the base of the Shady Side - 3 minutes. From the north side parking lot, follow the obvious trail goes over and along the hill over to the Sunny Side and other smaller areas.

Do not try to climb above the cliffs to set up a top-rope, as it is not safe and mostly impossible anyway. You have have to lead the climbs ground-up

Activity

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