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Table of contents

1. Trinity Arêtes 70 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -123.503099, 40.770151

1.1. Shooting Gallery 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -123.503132, 40.770199

1.1.1. The Boardwalk 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: -123.502692, 40.770497

Description:

The left-most section of the 'Shooting Gallery' cliff band, this area offers shorter, easier routes with a wide belay platform.

Approach:

Follow the steep trail left from the base of the 'Tower of Babble' until you reach the Boardwalk on your right.

If you're already at the 'Upper Shooting Gallery', follow the trail and fixed ropes to the left around the base of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Girly Man

Top anchor is a pair of open cold shuts shared with 'Wussy Boy'.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2005

5.8Sport 35ft, 4
2 * Wussy Boy

Top anchor is a pair of open cold shuts shared with 'Girly Man'.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2005

5.8Sport 35ft, 4
3 She Male

2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2005

5.10bSport 65ft, 9
4 Cedar's Dihedral

Top anchor is a large oak tree. Walk off descent.

FFA: Cedar Wright, 1997

5.10 RTrad 70ft
5 Cross Dresser

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Freak Show'.

Unknown Project 70ft
6 Freak Show

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Cross Dresser'.

Unknown Project 70ft

1.1.2. Upper Shooting Gallery 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: -123.503176, 40.770113

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Epic In A Bottle

Left-most route of Upper Shooting Gallery. Hidden holds and hidden bolts require some patient route-finding. Top anchor is a pair of Metolius rap hangers.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, Chris Wilson, 1997

5.10a PG13Sport 70ft, 6
2 Stumble in My Footsteps

Last bolt and 2-bolt top anchor are shared with 'Limestone Cowboy'.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1997

5.10cSport 70ft, 7
3 Limestone Cowboy

Last bolt and 2-bolt top anchor are shared with 'Stumble in My Footsteps'.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, Cedar Wright, 1997

5.10dSport 80ft, 9
4 Left for Dead

2-bolt top anchor. Pro to 2".

FFA: Eric Chemello, Adam Bowers, 1998

5.10cMixed 80ft, 6
5 Snakeshot

2-bolt top anchor with chains is shared with 'Goldrush'.

FFA: Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey, 1997

5.10dSport 90ft, 12
6 ** Goldrush

Manage the pump as you search for holds on this slightly overhanging sustained 90' route up varied limestone.

Start left of Bambi Slayer. The first three bolts take you to a ledge.

The crux is low, below the third bolt. Continue up left of the flake, and ascend left of the large flake following the yellow streak of limestone. 2-bolt top anchor with chains is shared with 'Snakeshot'.

FFA: Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey, 1996

5.11aSport 90ft, 14
7 Bambi Slayer

The last 4 bolts and the 2-bolt top anchor are shared with 'Rapture'.

FFA: Sean Leary, Cedar Wright, 1996

5.10dSport 70ft, 11
8 Side Effects

Start on 'Bambi Slayer'. After the 6th bolt, traverse right along the thin crack, ending at the 3-bolt top anchor shared with 'Blitzkrieg' and 'Mob Rules'. Small pro.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, Travis Klawin, 1997

5.11aMixed 120ft, 6

1.1.3. Lower Shooting Gallery 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -123.503442, 40.770046

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rapture

The left-most route of 'Lower Shooting Gallery'. Crux moves can be found between the 7th and 9th bolts. After the 10th bolt, the route follows 'Bambi Slayer' to the shared 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2004

5.12cMixed 130ft, 17
2 Open Season

Climb past the first 3 bolts of 'Rapture', then traverse right to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Blew It'.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, Eric Chemello, Cedar Wright, 1996

5.10bMixed 40ft, 3
3 Blew It

Climb the first 40 ft of 'Whiplash', stopping at the first 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Dave Manheimer, 1996

5.10aMixed 40ft, 2
4 Whiplash

Start to the right of 'Rapture'. Follow the right-leaning crack up to the first two bolts, then continue past the 2-bolt top anchor for 'Open Season' and 'Blew It' to the steeper, harder moves above. 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 1997

5.12bMixed 120ft, 12
5 Mob Rules

3-bolt top anchor. Small pro.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2005

5.12aMixed 120ft, 13
6 Blitzkrieg

3-bolt top anchor shared with 'Mob Rules' and 'Side Effects'.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 1997

5.11dMixed 120ft, 11
7 Flake Surfer

2-bolt top anchor.

FA: Paul Humphrey, 1997

5.10bTop rope 25ft
8 Smack Daddy

The right-most route along the 'Shooting Gallery' starts on a ledge at a pair of bolts for top-roping 'Flake Surfer'. Follow the line of bolts up the left side of the arête to the 3-bolt top anchor. For a longer variation, traverse left to follow 'Blitzkrieg' up to the higher 3-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1997

5.12bMixed 70ft, 6

1.2. Tower of Babble 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -123.503298, 40.770173

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tongue Twister

2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, Andre Oullette, 2002

5.7Mixed 40ft, 2
2 Babble-On

2-bolt top anchor. Clip the top anchor for 'Tongue Twister'[] after the 4th bolt and keep heading up.

FFA: Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey, 2003

5.12aSport 150ft, 18
3 Speaking in Tongues

8 half-inch removable bolts. 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2001

5.11cTrad 70ft
4 Gullible

2-bolt top anchor. This short route links the lower and upper sections of 'Shooting Gallery'. For easier foot access to the Upper Shooting Gallery, follow the trail clockwise around the base of the Tower of Babble to the 'Boardwalk'.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 1996

5.3 XTrad 50ft
5 * Shard / The Shard

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Bumbling Babbler'. Pro to 2". For a shorter (70 ft) sport variation, traverse right after the last bolt to the ledge and top anchor for 'Gullible'. For a longer (150 ft) sport variation, from there continue right up 'Bambi Slayer'.

FFA: Tom Ogden, 2001

5.9Mixed 90ft, 6
6 Bumbling Babbler

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Shard'. Start from the ledge at the top of 'Shard'[]. Descend in two 90 ft rappels.

FFA: Tom Ogden, 2001

5.10a RTrad 90ft
7 Naveless

FFA: Adam Wanden, 2001

5.7 XTrad 90ft
8 Wanderlust

No bolted top anchor. Descend by rappelling from the top anchor of 'Shard'.

FFA: Adam Wanden, 1998

5.7 XTrad 90ft
9 The Wright Stuff

2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Cedar Wright, Paul Humphrey, 1997

5.10 XMixed 150ft, 1

1.3. Visions Wall 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -123.503547, 40.769953

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Super Smack

2-bolt top anchor

FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1996

5.12bMixed 150ft, 14
2 *** Visions of Impalement

3-bolt top anchor shared with 'Indian Summer'. Pro: 2.5" cam between the 4th and 5th bolts.

FFA: Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey, 1996

5.11d RMixed 100ft, 11
3 ** Indian Summer

3-bolt top anchor shared with 'Visions of Impalement'. Pro: 2" cam for the hueco between 6th and 7th bolts, 1.5" cam along the traverse to the top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey, 1997

5.11bMixed 100ft, 12
4 Natural Selection

2-bolt top anchor

FFA: Eric Chemello, 1997

5.11a RMixed 90ft, 8
5 Survival of the Fittest

2-bolt top anchor

FFA: Paul Humphrey, Eric Chemello, Travis Klawin, Sharylin Clark, 1997

5.11bMixed 90ft, 6
6 *** Gooseberry

3-bolt top anchor shared with 'Karma-Kazi'.

FFA: Sean Leary, Justin Sommers, 1997

5.11cSport 80ft, 9
7 ** Karma-Kazi

3-bolt top anchor shared with 'Gooseberry'.

FFA: Eric Chemello, Sharilyn Clark, 1997

5.11aMixed 80ft, 6
8 ** 420 Shadow

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Chasing Vapors'.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, Eric Chemello, 1997

5.11cMixed 70ft, 6
9 ** 420 Karma

Easier link up variation. Climb past the first 4 bolts on '420 Shadow', then traverse left on thin gear to reach the upper portion of 'Karma-Kazi'. Climb past 2 more bolts to the 2-bolt top anchor.

5.10dMixed 80ft, 6
10 Chasing Vapors

2-bolt top anchor shared with '420 Shadow'.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, Travis Klawin, 1997

5.12bMixed 70ft, 8
11 * Trinity Traverse

Long traverse across the entire base of 'Visions Wall'. Start at the bottom of 'Visions of Impalement' and traverse right.

FFA: Chris Summit

V3Boulder

1.4. Paisano Buttress 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: -123.503567, 40.769758

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Undiscovered Country

2-bolt top anchor. Standard rack, plus some larger pieces.

This route provides access to 'High Voltage' or 'High Country' on the 'High Country Headwall' which start from the top anchor.

FA: Paul Humphrey, Eric Chemello, 1996

FFA: Sean Leary, 1997

5.11cTrad 80ft
2 If

2-bolt top anchor. This route provides access to 'High Thing' on the 'High Country Headwall' which starts from the top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey, Chris Wilson, 1997

5.13bSport 80ft, 10
3 Spliff

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Mean Streak'. From there, 'High Times' is an optional second pitch up the 'High Country Headwall'.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 1997

5.13bSport 80ft, 11
4 Mean Streak

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Spliff'. Still not pumped? Continue up 'High Times' as an optional second pitch on the 'High Country Headwall'.

FFA: Chris Lindner, Eric Chemello, 2004

5.14aSport 80ft, 10
5 Paisano Direct

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Thunderbird'.

FFA: Sean Leary, Justin Sommers, 1997

5.12dSport 80ft, 10
6 Deep Throat

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Burnt Offering II'. You can, from here, continue up 'Put Up Or Shut Up' as an optional second pitch on the 'High Country Headwall'.

FFA: Dave Holodiloff, Eric Chemello, 2006

5.13dSport 80ft, 13
7 Thunderbird

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Paisano Direct'.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2000

5.12cSport 80ft, 9
8 Burnt Offering I

Crux moves come right before the 2-bolt top anchor. From there, 'Burnt Offering II' continues up left and 'Burn Victim' continues up right.

FFA: Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey, 2001

5.12dSport 40ft, 6
9 Burnt Offering II

2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Deep Throat'. You can, from here, continue up 'Put Up Or Shut Up' as an optional second pitch on the 'High Country Headwall'.

FFA: Eric Chemello, Paul Humphrey, 2001

5.14aSport 80ft, 11
10 Burn Victim

Climb all of 'Burnt Offering I', then follow the bolt line right to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Choke Chain'.

FFA: Chris Lindner, Eric Chemello, 2006

5.13dSport 70ft, 10
11 Choke Chain

Climb past the first 3 bolts of 'Burnt Offering I', then follow the bolt line right to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Burn Victim'.

5.14Sport Project 80ft, 10
12 Smoke Signals

2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2000

5.13cSport 50ft, 6
13 Cro-Magnon

2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 1999

5.12dSport 40ft, 6
14 Splat

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2001

V4Boulder

1.4.1. High Country Headwall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -123.503531, 40.769802

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 High Voltage

Accessible as a second pitch after 'Undiscovered Country'. Route follows 6 bolts, then an optional 2-bolt top anchor where 'High Country' leads right, followed by 4 half-inch removable bolts and a 1.75" cam placement, ending at a 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2000

5.12bMixed 90ft, 6
2 High Country

Accessible as a second pitch after 'Undiscovered Country'. Climb the first 6 bolts shared with 'High Voltage' to the 2-bolt anchor, then traverse right along the overhanging flake to a 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'High Times' and 'Put Up Or Shut Up'.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1997

5.10aMixed 90ft, 6
3 High Thing

Accessible as a second pitch after 'If'. 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 1999

5.12c RMixed 120ft, 11
4 High Times

Accessible as a second pitch after 'Spliff' or 'Mean Streak'. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'High Country', and 'Put Up Or Shut Up'. Pro: a few small cams below the top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2001

5.13cMixed 120ft, 14
5 Put Up Or Shut Up
  1. 90 ft. Climb past the 5 bolts on the bottom half of the 'Safari Wall' before traversing left past gear placements and 2 more bolts to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Deep Throat' and 'Burnt Offering II'.

  2. 120 ft. Continue up the 'High Country Headwall' past 6 bolts and gear placements to a 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'High Country' and 'High Times'.

200 ft rappel back to the ground.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1997

5.10dMixed 210ft, 13

1.4.2. Safari Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -123.503580, 40.769686

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 On Safari

Climb past 5 bolts, place some pro as you traverse left to a 6th bolt, then head up the crack, past the tree, to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'El Niño' and 'La Niña'.

FFA: Randy Adrian, 1997

5.9Mixed 100ft, 6
2 El Niño

Climb past 5 bolts, then continue straight up, placing gear as you pass by 2 more bolts to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'On Safari' and 'La Niña'.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1997

5.9Mixed 100ft, 7
3 La Niña

Climb past 5 bolts, then traverse right to face climbing protected by 6 half-inch removable bolts ending at the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'On Safari' and 'El Niño'.

FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1999

5.9Mixed 100ft, 5

1.5. NIMBY Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -123.503437, 40.769626

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sargasso

2-bolt anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2001

5.9 RTrad 50ft
2 Slum Dweller

5 half-inch removable bolts. 2-bolt anchor.

FFA: Adam Wanden, Eric Chemello, 2001

5.10bTrad 50ft
3 Congo

7 half-inch removable bolts. 2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Adam Wanden, Eric Chemello, 2001

5.11bTrad 50ft
4 Drug Lord

2-bolt top anchor.

FFA: Eric Chemello, 2001

5.12bSport 50ft, 7
5 Moss Vein

FFA: Adam Wanden, 2001

5.7 XTrad 40ft
6 Vain Moss

FFA: Adam Wanden, 2001

5.7 XTrad 40ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.3 Gullible Trad 50ft 1.2. Tower of Babble
5.7 Naveless Trad 90ft 1.2. Tower of Babble
Tongue Twister Mixed 40ft, 2 1.2. Tower of Babble
Wanderlust Trad 90ft 1.2. Tower of Babble
Moss Vein Trad 40ft 1.5. NIMBY Wall
Vain Moss Trad 40ft 1.5. NIMBY Wall
5.8 * Girly Man Sport 35ft, 4 1.1.1. The Boardwalk
* Wussy Boy Sport 35ft, 4 1.1.1. The Boardwalk
5.9 * Shard Mixed 90ft, 6 1.2. Tower of Babble
El Niño Mixed 100ft, 7 1.4.2. Safari Wall
La Niña Mixed 100ft, 5 1.4.2. Safari Wall
On Safari Mixed 100ft, 6 1.4.2. Safari Wall
Sargasso Trad 50ft 1.5. NIMBY Wall
5.10a * Epic In A Bottle Sport 70ft, 6 1.1.2. Upper Shooting Gallery
Blew It Mixed 40ft, 2 1.1.3. Lower Shooting Gallery
Bumbling Babbler Trad 90ft 1.2. Tower of Babble
High Country Mixed 90ft, 6 1.4.1. High Country Headwall
5.10b She Male Sport 65ft, 9 1.1.1. The Boardwalk
Flake Surfer Top rope 25ft 1.1.3. Lower Shooting Gallery
Open Season Mixed 40ft, 3 1.1.3. Lower Shooting Gallery
Slum Dweller Trad 50ft 1.5. NIMBY Wall
5.10c Left for Dead Mixed 80ft, 6 1.1.2. Upper Shooting Gallery
Stumble in My Footsteps Sport 70ft, 7 1.1.2. Upper Shooting Gallery
5.10 Cedar's Dihedral Trad 70ft 1.1.1. The Boardwalk
The Wright Stuff Mixed 150ft, 1 1.2. Tower of Babble
5.10d Bambi Slayer Sport 70ft, 11 1.1.2. Upper Shooting Gallery
Limestone Cowboy Sport 80ft, 9 1.1.2. Upper Shooting Gallery
Snakeshot Sport 90ft, 12 1.1.2. Upper Shooting Gallery
** 420 Karma Mixed 80ft, 6 1.3. Visions Wall
Put Up Or Shut Up Mixed 210ft, 13 1.4.1. High Country Headwall
5.11a ** Goldrush Sport 90ft, 14 1.1.2. Upper Shooting Gallery
Side Effects Mixed 120ft, 6 1.1.2. Upper Shooting Gallery
** Karma-Kazi Mixed 80ft, 6 1.3. Visions Wall
Natural Selection Mixed 90ft, 8 1.3. Visions Wall
5.11b ** Indian Summer Mixed 100ft, 12 1.3. Visions Wall
Survival of the Fittest Mixed 90ft, 6 1.3. Visions Wall
Congo Trad 50ft 1.5. NIMBY Wall
V3 * Trinity Traverse Boulder 1.3. Visions Wall
5.11c Speaking in Tongues Trad 70ft 1.2. Tower of Babble
** 420 Shadow Mixed 70ft, 6 1.3. Visions Wall
*** Gooseberry Sport 80ft, 9 1.3. Visions Wall
Undiscovered Country Trad 80ft 1.4. Paisano Buttress
5.11d Blitzkrieg Mixed 120ft, 11 1.1.3. Lower Shooting Gallery
*** Visions of Impalement Mixed 100ft, 11 1.3. Visions Wall
V4 Splat Boulder 1.4. Paisano Buttress
5.12a Mob Rules Mixed 120ft, 13 1.1.3. Lower Shooting Gallery
Babble-On Sport 150ft, 18 1.2. Tower of Babble
5.12b Smack Daddy Mixed 70ft, 6 1.1.3. Lower Shooting Gallery
Whiplash Mixed 120ft, 12 1.1.3. Lower Shooting Gallery
Chasing Vapors Mixed 70ft, 8 1.3. Visions Wall
Super Smack Mixed 150ft, 14 1.3. Visions Wall
High Voltage Mixed 90ft, 6 1.4.1. High Country Headwall
Drug Lord Sport 50ft, 7 1.5. NIMBY Wall
5.12c Rapture Mixed 130ft, 17 1.1.3. Lower Shooting Gallery
Thunderbird Sport 80ft, 9 1.4. Paisano Buttress
High Thing Mixed 120ft, 11 1.4.1. High Country Headwall
5.12d Burnt Offering I Sport 40ft, 6 1.4. Paisano Buttress
Cro-Magnon Sport 40ft, 6 1.4. Paisano Buttress
Paisano Direct Sport 80ft, 10 1.4. Paisano Buttress
5.13b If Sport 80ft, 10 1.4. Paisano Buttress
Spliff Sport 80ft, 11 1.4. Paisano Buttress
5.13c Smoke Signals Sport 50ft, 6 1.4. Paisano Buttress
High Times Mixed 120ft, 14 1.4.1. High Country Headwall
5.13d Burn Victim Sport 70ft, 10 1.4. Paisano Buttress
Deep Throat Sport 80ft, 13 1.4. Paisano Buttress
5.14a Burnt Offering II Sport 80ft, 11 1.4. Paisano Buttress
Mean Streak Sport 80ft, 10 1.4. Paisano Buttress
5.14 Choke Chain Sport Project 80ft, 10 1.4. Paisano Buttress
? Cross Dresser Unknown Project 70ft 1.1.1. The Boardwalk
Freak Show Unknown Project 70ft 1.1.1. The Boardwalk