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Summary

Emigrant Lake offers sunny single pitch cragging up sandstone cliffs overlooking the reservoir.

Description

With an unobstructed SSW aspect and a short approach, the 30ft to 80ft cliffs at Emigrant Lake offer easy, year-round climbing. The cliff band is located within the county park recreation area featuring overnight camping and a water park. Most routes are bolted for lead climbing, with only a handful requiring trad gear. The top anchors are bolted, and with an easy scramble to the top of the cliff, most routes are easily top-roped. Note that Aqua Wall is seasonally under water as the reservoir level fluctuates. Watch out for poison oak!

Access issues

Day use fee is $4 (as of 2013). No day use is allowed after sunset, including climbing.

Approach

The cliff band is located at the north end of the reservoir. Follow driving directions to Emigrant Lake County Park. Once inside the park, cross the bridge over the spillway and park at the trailhead at the far end of the RV park. A 10 minute walk down the trail brings you to the cliff band. When the water is low, you can also just walk along the beach, which may lessen your exposure to poison oak along the trail.

Where to stay

RV camping is available within the park year-round. Tent camping is only available during the summer months. Check the county park webpage for specific dates and fees: http://www.co.jackson.or.us/page.asp?navid=3555

History

The reservoir was constructed in 1924 and expanded in 1960. The cliff saw active development during the early 1990s by a small cadre of local climbers and was for a while home of the hardest sport climb in southern Oregon.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
11
10
36ft
1
Ren Wall Sector
8
3
52ft
1
1
1
30ft

Open trips

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