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Grade Route
{AU} V3 *** Stump Pump Boulder 16ft

Climb the obvious crack splitting the overhang with the wall to the left.

{AU} V5 Tyrannosaurus Rex Boulder 16ft

The Waimea testpiece. Start on a couple of opposing flat shelves and climb up on good pockets until you hit the overhang. Tricky footwork and a couple of small crimps allow a big move to a painful diagonal pocket. (There's another, smaller pocket to the left of it for your other hand.) Pull up and left to gain some good, sharp jugs. Top out.

{AU} V7 T-Rex Direc Boulder 16ft

Takes the direct line up the center of the overhang, keeping off of the jugs on the left arete. Moving up from the painful diagonal slot, aim for a scooped-out sloper and try to locate a small crimp directly to the right of it. It's not over yet: get your feet up and do one more hard move to gain a good two- to three-finger scoop.

{AU} V5 *** Dub Step Boulder 16ft

Climbs the same as Southpaw until you reach the large crack that tapers off as it goes up and left. Do some fun technical moves, following the crack, on hidden and small, but surprisingly positive, crimps. Link up with T-Rex Direct and top it out.

{AU} V2 *** Finger Machine Traverse Boulder 23ft

Start next to the Buried Treasure block and traverse right using mostly easy holds, staying around mid-face.

V2 *** Shoulders Boulder 16ft

Start low with a big, flat jug and move upward on good holds to reach a crack. Do big moves upward on holds that get smaller and muddier the higher you go, keeping left to stay off the easy slab.

{AU} V0 Kitty Cat Boulder 16ft

Most of the year, the sand level makes this climb begin as a sit start from the big pocket, dead center, at the bottom of the blunt arete. Good holds and fun moves. Do a blind reach up and around a big, slanted step to find a good crack to pull over it onto an easy top out / down climb slab.

{AU} V4 Crococat Boulder 16ft

Start on the same big pocket that begins Kitty Cat and do a big lockoff up and right to a thin, sharp crimp. Slide your feet over and cross your left hand into a sloper that brings you into Crocodile.

{AU} V2 Crocodile Boulder 16ft

Stand start and find one of many different ways to climb up to a good rail with plenty of room to shuffle both hands around. Adjust your feet and pull up and over using a sloping ledge and good pocket. Get your feet onto the rail and top out.

{AU} V4 Da Mento Boiz Boulder 16ft

Make your way out left to a pair of deep pockets just around the arete. The block sticking out to your left is off. Getting by it without dabbing is awkward and could be the crux.

{AU} V3 Bird Cage Boulder 16ft

An sweet little problem. Start low and right and climb left on good ledges then pull up to a R hand gaston and do a big move up and left to a small but good ledge. There is also a very small crimp mid-face that can be used. Top out can be tricky.

{AU} V3 Crazy Box Boulder 16ft

Climb directly up the slab with small holds. A healhook and mantle usually does the trick. An easy hand-free rest is possible standing on the start holds. Top it out directly without traversing left for a challenge.

{AU} V2 EDC Boulder 16ft

Start low and climb up and left on decent crimps until you reach a jug. Have a spotter lest you fall onto boulder directly behind you. Stand up and balance & crimp your way up to the lip for the top out.

{AU} V1 *** Southpaw Boulder 16ft

Start directly beneath the overhang and climb up and right to gain a good, baseball-shaped jug. Pull up to the sloping rail and follow good holds and cracks up and over.

V2 *** Southpaw direct Boulder 16ft

Same as above, except, from the sloping rail, climb straight up using small holds and a two-finger pocket.

{AU} V0 Groove Tube Boulder 16ft

Climb the obvious tube-crack above a large block that juts out below it. A crash pad would be a good idea. One of the best climbs to be had at the Bay.


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