Routes as ice in North Wasatch Region

NW facing gully formation near canyon mouth (41.066508, -111.898170). WI1 steps & slabs finish at ~10ft WI2 column when formed. Other lines go near M1/2 and up or moderate snow 45+.

Egress: Walk off west along ridge and gain trail.

WI2 ramps along left side lead to ~20ft WI3 step. Pine tree slung anchor atop (potentially buried in snow).

Near Davis Creek Trailhead at designated parking lot.

This line consists of 4 separated waterfalls along Davis Creek Trail. Expect a tight trail corridor, breaking trail, tree tunneling, & ~2+hrs hike time.

1. 30+ft (no topo). Unlikely to be formed. Could be mixed climbed for the truly initiated. Gear/ grade unknown. Bolted belays are said to exist on left and right side.

2. WI2, 80+ft. Hike along Davis Creek Trail to "2nd Waterfall" trail marker (1+miles, ~1hrs). Steepening moderate ice ramp on right side or ramp with varying sized step on left. Belay from trees above. Descend and return to trail or ramble up south hillside to intersect trail.

3. WI2/3, 40+ft. Continue along trail to 3rd waterfall(~30-45min). Expect short WI3 column with dry tooling potential on left or ramps & short steps on right (WI2/2+). Belay from trees above. A short walk upstream gains 4th waterfall.

4. WI2/2+, M3/4, 75-120ft. Moderate eggshell ice to rock slab (delamination hazard). Belay off tree cluster to left, or top out through single bolt protected rock step/roof (M3/4).Finish on moderate/steep snow to belay tree. Rappel with 60m rope to tree cluster anchor.

Egress: Rappel top two waterfalls & Hike Davis Creek Trail back to trailhead.

A mythical line said to exist supposedly in the vicinity of Gilbert & Upstairs.

Ogden's prolific ice climb originally lead by Greg Low in the 70's while pioneering what would later become the standard for ice climbing technique and equipment.

Approach:

Waterfall Canyon ~2.5 miles round trip and Ogden's best natural waterfall. This canyon also offers access to Malan's Peak and Mt Ogden trail for those seeking a mild mountaineering approach for either objective (41.200335, -111.920089).

1. WI4/4+. 150'. Vertical steps along center or right side of formation leads to bolted belay near tree. Variation- WI5. 180' Steeper left side to belay cave. Ice screws or piton belay.

2. WI5. 190'. Move left then climb moderate section aiming for the vertical/overhanging crux. Belay at pool with ice screws or pitons.

3. WI3. 50'. Continue up ice formation to gully.

Egress- Repel the line using 2 ropes and pitch 1 belay. Opt. 2: Top out gully and continue along ridge gaining climber's trail. Head southward to base.

Steep drip formation through multiple steps on south end of Schoolroom Alcove. V-thread or natural anchor for egress. Hike through lower boulderfield and talus field at base of Alcove aiming for (41.2213786, -111.9246142).

One of the State's top rated Ice/Mixed climbs when it forms. Follow features up the obvious recessed amphitheater located at the southern end of Mezzanine Cliff band, (41.2613999, -111.9330353).

Rack: Singles to #3 Egress: Hike off South as for Mezzanine South Buttress or North as for The Nose.

Located on the Mezzanines between The Nose & Timex, (41.2633059, -111.9370301).

Hike Jumpoff Canyon trail, passing the boulder blockage. Begin route on north side of canyon, ~(41.2713372, -111.9374157).

North of Macabre Wall near, (41.275128, -111.944080). Follows Gulley to steeper section, finishes on low angle terrain. Hike off.

Ice formation near (41.357507, -111.959398)

Descend: Natural anchor to base

Ice/mixed climb through left facing dihedral. Located on cliff near (41.318261, -111.921228), 2hr approach.

~150ft south of Rope Drag Nightmare. Moderate scoop feature leads to a thin, steep face. When formed these will be visible from North Ogden Canyon Rd.

A misleading name, this gully ice is found low on the Holmes Canyon approach to London Spire.

Approach: Pearson Canyon 60-90min

Route follows chute in south side of canyon. Leadning to over hanging corner. W4 verglas forms ~50 right of corner.

Egress: V-thread, bollard, down climb.

Continue up Pearson Canyon staying right. This route follows thin verglas ice through bulging rock staircase. Little to no protection potential delamination.

Egress: natural anchor rappel

~100ft further from the top of Number 2. Verglas/ mixed apron to 2-tiered 35ft upper curtain/column. Runout & difficult to protect.

Egress: Natural anchor rappel

Approach: Head into canyon south of Pearson Canyon (41.3774121, -112.0142261) either following canyon or staying higher on ridge.

Route follows vertical ice broken with a ramp section.

Additional WI2-5 lines have been done further above.

Ice gully more than waterfall. Multiple steps of various sizes connected by snow ramp. Slung tree anchors and potential exposed rock. After headwall find exit to the north through a section of small shrubs.

Direct finish exists through broken rock/ ice ramp instead of heading right toward ice headwall (M2+, 1-2pitches). This finishes at walk-off trail.

Willard Canyon Trailhead

Approach: Hike access road & Willard Canyon Trail to switchbacks leading to (41.4153753, -112.0108737).

Egress: Continue ~20' past upper head wall & walk off north across open slope. Continue heading down & south/west gaining "YCC" trail cut into cliff.

Rack: Screws, potential rock pro

A mostly non-existent route, multiple bulges & moderate steps.

Approach: Continue on Willard Canyon Trail past switchbacks leading to Willard Canyon Fall. Begins atop a talus embankment and recognized by the black varnished streak on cliff.

Egress: Walk off south gaining descent trail to base.

Vertical ice leads to overhanging bulge when fully formed.

Alternative: Near vertical ice (W3/4) leads to mixed climbing finish at roof (M3), (fixed pin anchor under roof). Left Exit: (~M3) exit left to fixed anchor.

Approach: Continue walking up stream from Black Streak, weaving between stream and north bank. Access climb either by fording stream to base of route or hike/scramble left of climb and rappel in. Piton anchor exists mid route.

Egress: Rap trees.

Water Farmed mixed with scarce protection. Thin, delicate, vertical curtains. (~W5)?

Short warm up pitch far left at bottom of drainage, finishes at trees.