Region Guide for West Virginia

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. West Virginia 3,132 routes in Region

789456213

1 New River Gorge, 2 Summersville Lake, 3 Bozoo, 4 Seneca, 5 Nelson Rocks, 6 Franklin Gorge, 7 Coopers Rock State Forest, 8 Morgantown, 9 Harper's Ferry

seasonality

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -80.470194, 38.684023

1.1. New River Gorge 1,828 routes in Crag

531

1 Bridge Area Crags, 3 Junkyard Wall, 5 Bubba City

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -81.004221, 37.870484

1.1.1. Bridge Area Crags 201 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: -81.078910, 38.074344

1.1.2. Ambassador Buttress 26 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.1.3. Junkyard Wall 74 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: -81.080343, 38.084261

1.1.4. Animal Escarpments 27 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.5. Bubba City 395 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: -81.091332, 38.091610

1.1.6. Endless Wall 722 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

1.1.7. Beauty Mountain 158 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport and Aid

1.1.8. Keeneys Buttress 12 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.9. Sunshine Wall 24 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,?

1.1.10. Kaymoor 116 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,?

1.1.11. Burnwood 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.1.12. Hawk's Nest 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.1.13. Cotton Hill 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.1.14. Meadow River 58 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.1.15. Cotton Top 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport

1.2. Summersville Lake 126 routes in Crag

1

1 The Coliseum

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: -80.867339, 38.240778

1.2.1. The Coliseum 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: -80.845315, 38.241670

1.2.2. Perot Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.2.3. D.C. Memorial Boulder 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.2.4. Long Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.2.5. Satisfaction Area 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.2.6. Narcissus Cave 11 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport

1.2.7. Orange Oswald Wall 18 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.2.8. Perot Wall (to be merged) 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.2.9. Rats Hole 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.2.10. Whipperwill 22 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.2.11. Whipperwill Left 15 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,Trad and ?

1.3. Bozoo 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: -80.867874, 37.477367

1.3.1. White Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.2. Iceberg Area 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.3. Necro Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.4. Bond Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.5. Bovine Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.6. Simpson's Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:

1.4. Seneca 422 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: -79.367611, 38.833914

Unique Features And Strengths:

Idyllic setting in the gorgeous West Virgina hill country. Secluded, yet popular, this crag leaves a lasting impression with all its climbing visitors.

Description:

Steep routes on great rock. One to four-pitch (most routes are 2-3 pitches), predominantly trad-protected climbs. Climbing varies, but typically includes 90-degree right/left facing corners with crack between face and corner, vertical finger-to-hand size cracks, and face climbing between ledges. Fore warned is fore armed! Seneca difficulty ratings ARE sandbagged. Understand that most 5.7 and above at Seneca requires significant trad experience, including good gear placement, rope management, and a cool head on steep, exposed rock. Some 5.8s and 5.9s at Seneca are rightfully considered quite serious, and are thought of as 5.10s relative to other crags.

Access Issues:

Access is free to the public and only restricted due to weather. April through October are typically warm enough, but frequent rain is an issue.

1.4.1. The Southern Pillar 43 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.2. The South End 46 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.4.3. South Peak 209 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.4.4. North Peak 93 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.4.5. Lower Slabs 31 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.5. Nelson Rocks 183 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: -79.464620, 38.696549

1.5.1. West Fin, West Face 15 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.5.2. The Pillar, South Face 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.5.3. West Fin, East Face 24 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.5.4. East Fin, West Face 27 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.5.5. Crescendo Wall Area 23 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.5.6. West Fin - ROUTES TO BE MERGED INTO THE AREAS ABOVE 33 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.5.7. East Fin - ROUTES TO BE MERGED INTO THE AREAS ABOVE 52 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.6. Franklin Gorge 98 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and Trad

Long/Lat: -79.322003, 38.666496

Description:

Located entirely on PRIVATE LAND, single pitch, mostly sport, some mixed & trad.

Access Issues:

All known routes at Franklin are located on PRIVATE LAND, and therefor, access should not be taken for granted. Keeping a low profile is of utmost importance. The landowner & his family hunt on the plateau above the routes, so please apprise yourself of the State & Local hunting seasons, and act accordingly.

Approach:

Your typical Potomac Highlands approach: Short & Steep. Staying on the trail is imperative, as even a slight mis-step causes a good bit of negative impact. Always remember that a hillside trail is much stronger on the uphill edge, and much weaker on the downhill edge. Approach times are from 10 seconds to about 15 minutes.

Where To Stay:

Brandywine Recreational Area, Thorn Springs Campground, Star Hotel, Thompson's Motel

Ethic:

Dogs are not welcome (PRIVATE LAND), Leave No Trace, stay on trails, you-damage-trail-you-fix-it-NOW, no trundling onto road, no Quick-Links, no tick marks, clean up your chalk, clean up your tape, no chipping, no theft, no defacement, use camouflaged hardware, inspect & replace worn carabiners, respect red tags, respect hunters & hunting seasons, no top-roping through fixed gear, etc., etc.

History:

Sport climbing is known to have come to Franklin in the early 1990's, by then Harrisonburg local John Burcham. Other key developers are believed to be: Eddie & Tracy Begoon, Howard Clark, George Powell, Darrel Hensley, & Mike Artz, along with various others. Later & continued development was brought by Michael Fisher & Michael Gray. Later development at the River's Bend area is believed to be by Matthew Fanning, Matthew Behrins, Sam Powell, et.al.

1.6.1. Parking Area Wall 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Description:

This is the cliff that is visible right above the main parking area, offering some very sustained climbing, and is home to the first sport routes at Franklin.

Approach:

Simply walk up the stone steps..."Two Blind Mice" is at the top of the steps, with the classic "Squeal Like A Pig" on your right, and more routes to the left.

1.6.2. Contact Zone 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport,? and Trad

Description:

Located on private land, mostly sport routes, 2-8 bolts, ring anchors, cold shuts, or chain top anchors.

Approach:

From the parking area, go up the stone steps, go right (upriver), follow the trail, less than 5 minutes.

1.6.3. Impact Zone 43 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport,? and Trad

Description:

Located on private land, this is the upper level at Franklin, with a good selection of sport climbs, mostly in the 5.10 range.

Approach:

5-10 minutes

1.6.4. River's Bend 25 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport

1.6.5. The Ivory Tower 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport

1.7. Coopers Rock State Forest 293 routes in Crag

Summary:

Boulder,? and other styles

Long/Lat: -79.790321, 39.666506

1.7.1. Rock City 82 routes in Area

Summary:

Boulder,?

1.7.2. Haystack Area 15 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Boulder

1.7.3. Roadside Rocks 82 routes in Area

Summary:

Boulder,?

1.7.4. Sunset Wall (Jimi Cliff) 24 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.7.5. Middle Rocks 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Boulder

1.7.6. Lower Middle 0 routes in Area

1.7.7. The Good Block 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.7.8. Raven Rock 0 routes in Area

1.7.9. Tilted Tree Alley Way 50 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Boulder

1.7.10. Roof Rocks 26 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.7.11. 2 Big Rocks 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport

1.8. Morgantown 87 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: -79.925139, 39.615026

1.8.1. Woodland Wall 55 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.8.2. Hole in the Wall 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,? and Trad

1.8.3. Secret Cliffs 15 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad,Sport

1.9. Harper's Ferry 0 routes in Crag

1.10. The Meadow 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.11. The G Spot 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.12. Charleston 0 routes in Crag

1.13. Riverton Rocks 0 routes in Crag

1.14. Judy Gap 0 routes in Crag

Description:

An often overlooked area, with excellent adventure climbing opportunities, as well as a few classic sport climbs. Climbing could be compared to Seneca, Nelson, & Champe Rocks. Some two pitch routes exist. Aging pitons, RURPS, etc. suggest a long history of climbing.

1.14.1. Spire 1 0 routes in Area

1.14.2. Spire 2 0 routes in Area

1.14.3. Spire 3 0 routes in Area

1.14.4. Spire 4 0 routes in Area

1.15. Reed's Creek 33 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Access Issues:

Minimal parking, with a short road hike, and a good High Speed Trail system. Located on public lands, in the National Forest. Generations of locals have hunted game here, so apprise yourself of hunting seasons & regulations, and be respectful of other user groups. Please note that the plateau above the routes is PRIVATE LAND, and the land owner does not permit encroachment of any sort.

Approach:

A typical Potomac Highlands approach, short & steep. Staying on the trail is imperative, as even a slight mis-step causes a good bit of negative impact. Always remember that a hillside trail is much stronger on the uphill edge, and much weaker on the downhill edge.

Ethic:

Leave No Trace, stay on trails, you-damage-trail-you-fix-it-NOW, no trundling onto road, no Quick-Links, no tick marks, clean up your chalk, clean up your tape, no chipping, no theft, no defacement, use camouflaged hardware, inspect & replace worn carabiners, respect red tags, walk on the left side of the road, respect hunters & hunting seasons, no top-roping through fixed gear, etc., etc.