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Description:
  1. From a small clearing with slopping blocky section which includes a small semi-detached pillar, aim for the fixed 3x bong anchor.

  2. Traverse right to the bolted belay/rap anchor, the bigger horizontal crack holds gear, but it's also the best thing to use as a ramp for your feet... can be very spooky/exposed/run-out.

  3. Head straight up the face, pulling the large flakes, up the corner with the tree, belay with natural pro on the ledge.

  4. Go straight up from the little cave and do a balancy move to the left flake, head up the easiest path, past a 2 tree doulble ledge and up a ramp to the left up to the base of aireation buttress.

For a safer second traverse: trail a second rope or use doubles and merge pitch 2 and 3 together, only using a single rope after passing the last piece of pro at the beginning of the traverse, run this rope on the left side of the tree when climbing the chimney on pitch 3, this way, you can better protect your second across the traverse.

Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Cathedral Ledge approx:
Long/Lat: -71.165896,44.064171

Route Grade Citations

5.6 Rock Climbing New England
5.6 Principal
II 5.6 *** Justus Zimmerman

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard good fun traverse

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