Section navigation

Description:

Near the left side of the slabs are a pair of slowly converging dikes running up the slab. This routes starts up the right-most of the dikes.

Pitch 0: friction the slab to the large sloping ledge. (Most climbers rope up on this ledge.) Guide says to belay from pin at right side of ledge, but pin did not seem to be present as of August/2012.

  1. 125' (5.2) Climb the easy but poorly protected dike to a cozy belay pocket with two bolt anchor.

  2. 150' (5.2) Follow the dike past a double-ring bolt anchor (top of pitch one of "Pathfinder" to a large tree ledge. Scramble up and left to the high point and belay.

  3. 60' (5.6) Continue up to the base of a narrow right-rising arch. Belay on a natural thread and gear.

  4. 75' (5.6, crux) Layback part way up the arch (to a couple of in-situ nuts) then pull up left over the arch onto slab then up to a double ring-bolt anchor below the huge upper roofs.

  5. 80' (5.5) Traverse right below the big roofs to a double ring-bolt anchor on a small ledge.

  6. 65' (5.6) Continue right around the corner, and climb the final overlap by way of shallow right-facing corner to a big pine.

  7. (5.2) Up and right through 4th class terrain, the occasional slab and treed ledges.

  8. (5.2) Up and right through 4th class terrain, the occasional slab and treed ledges, to finish near the end of "Standard Route".

A rappel descent can be made from the end of pitch 4 on a single 70m rope. (Barely, 5 rappels, using the "Pathfinder" pitch 1 anchors.) A rappel descent can be made from the end of pitch 5 with double-rope rappels (2 50m ropes).

Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Whitehorse Ledge approx:
Long/Lat: -71.167251,44.054417

Route Grade Citations

5.6 Principal

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard good fun traverse

Learn about creating circuits.