Showing all 50 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
West Face | |||||
{AU} YDS:5.11c COM:V | ★★★ West Face
FA: TM Herbert & Royal Robbins, 1967 FFA: Ray Jardine & Bill Price, 1979 | 550m, 20 | |||
Southwest Face | |||||
5.14a | Magic Mushroom (free)
The route shares the first 5 pitches of Muir Wall, then continues straight up to the Mammoth Ledges. After the Gray Ledge, it shares 3 pitches with El Corazon and rejoins the original aid line. The final 4 pitches follow the old aid route Jolly Roger. The route to the left of The Nose was first ascended with the use of aid in 1972 by Hugh Burton and Steve Sutton and freed in June 2008 by Tommy Caldwell and Justen Sjong. with difficulties up to VI 5.14a / 8b+. A month later, drawing on a moment of utter inspiration, Caldwell then led all pitches free in a sub 24 hour push. FFA: Tommy Caldwell & Justen Sjong, 2012 | 880m, 30 | |||
5.13c/d | PreMuir
A variation of 'Muir Wall'. It takes a line up the centre of El Cap following parts of the 'Muir Wall', 'The Shaft' and 'The Shield', but also includes some 5.13 climbing of its own. FA: Rob Miller & Justen Sjong, 2007 | 33 | |||
5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider
The route follows complex crack systems up the southwest face of El Capitan. Essentially it is the Salathe wall with a few variations used (pioneered by Alex Huber) to avoid the numerous 5.13 crux pitches first freed by Paul Piana and Todd Skinner in the mid 80's. The first 10 pitches of this route are often independently completed as a separate route and is known as Freeblast 5.11. The Free Rider technically climbs the 5.13a boulder problem pitch but it is also an option to do the Salathe’s Teflon Corner at 5.12d. *June 3, 2017 - First free solo ascent on El Capitan, and world's hardest multi-pitch free solo by Alex Honnold. Time: 3 hours, 56 minutes
| 880m, 32 | |||
5.13a | Golden Gate | 1000m, 41 | |||
5.13b | ★★★ El Corazón
'El Corazón' is a combination of 'Salathé Wall', Albatross, 'Son of Heart' and 'Heart Route' plus some new established variations to link the freeable sections of the existing routes. Besides placing some new bolts on belay stations, no single bolt was placed for the new route. Pitons and Bird Beaks, which were placed during the first ascent for the necessary new variations, were left as protection for the free climb. FA: Alexander Huber & Max Reichel, 2001 FFA: Alexander Huber, 2001 | 1000m, 35 | |||
Southeast Face | |||||
5.14d | ★★★ The Dawn Wall
1
5.12b
2
5.13a
3
5.13c
4
5.12b
5
5.12d
6
5.13c
7
5.14a
8
5.13d
9
5.13c
10
5.14a
11
5.13c
12
5.14b
13
5.13b
14
5.14d
15
5.14d
16
5.14a
17
5.14c
18
5.14a
19
5.13c
20
5.13b
21
5.13d
22
5.13d
23
5.10
24
5.11
25
5.11
26
5.11d
27
5.11c
28
5.12c
29
5.12b
30
5.12b
31
5.13a
32
5.12b
Pitch 5 : Anchorage Ledge Pitch 14 : protected by fixed gear Pitch 15 : The Traverse Pitch 16 : The Dyno Pitch 22 : Wino Tower Pitch 28 : Ship's Bow FFA: Tommy Caldwell & Kevin Jorgeson, 14 Jan 2015 | 920m, 32, 35 | |||
5.13c | Pineapple Express
A free variation to 'North America Wall' that links with 'El Niño' and avoids the rappel completely. FFA: Sonnie Trotter & Tommy Caldwell, 19 Nov 2018 | 730m | |||
5.13c | El Niño
Free variation of 'North America Wall' with one short rappel down a completely black eight-meter blank section. FFA: Thomas Huber & Alexander Huber, 1994 | 30 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress
1
5.9
160ft
2
5.10b
70ft
3
5.6
55ft
4
5.6
125ft
5
Class 3
80ft
6
5.8
155ft
7
5.8
130ft
8
5.9
65ft
9
5.9
130ft
10
5.5
100ft
11
5.8
160ft
12
5.7
150ft
13
5.6
70ft
For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark. After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short) Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree. After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road FA: Allen Steck, Wili Siri, Bill Long & Willi Unsoeld, 1953 | 440m | |||
West Buttress Base Area | |||||
5.10a | ★★ West Buttress
1
5.9
2
5.10a
| 91m, 2 | |||
5.9 | ★ Peter Pan
| 91m, 3 | |||
5.7 | Captain Hook Left
| 18m | |||
5.9 | Captain Hook Right
| 18m | |||
Southwest Base Area | |||||
5.11b | ★★★ La Escuela
Pro to 2.5". FA: Yvon Chouinard & TM Herbert, 1962 FFA: Steve Wuncsh & Mark Chapman, 1973 | 67m, 3 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Mr. Dash
Alternate P3 finish for La Escuela named after the late Micah Dash. Pro to 3" with extra 2" cams. FFA: James Selvidge & Melissa Michelitsch, 2010 | 18m | |||
5.10b | ★★ The Slack, Left
Pro to 6", 2 ea. 2"-5". FA: Chuck Pratt & Royal Robbins, 1965 FFA: Pat Ament & Larry Dalke, 1967 | 110m, 3 | |||
5.10d | ★★ The Slack, Center
Pro to 6". P2 and P3 often linked. FA: Charlie Raymond & Wally Reed, 1958 FFA: Pat Ament & Larry Dalke, 1967 | 120m, 4 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker
Fabulous steep jam crack from narrow hand to offwidth. Pro to 6" with doubles to 3". Two rope rappel. FFA: Frank Sacherer & Mike Sherrick, 1964 | 46m | |||
5.10d | ★★★ The Mark of Art
Pro to 3", 2-3 ea. 0.75"-1.5". FFA: Mark Chapman & Art Higbee, 1974 | 55m | |||
5.11b | ★ Short But Thin
Small pro. Usually top-roped by climbing the first 40ft of Sacherer Cracker to the bolts. FFA: Tobin Sorenson & John Bachar, 1974 | 12m | |||
5.9 | ★ Fifteen Seconds of Fame
Pro to 4". FA: unknown FFA: Clint Cummins, 1988 | 2, 1 | |||
5.9 | ★★ La Cosita, Left Variation
Offwidth/lieback/chimney variation up the large flake on the left. FFA: Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell, Dan Doody & Wally Upton, 1962 | 18m | |||
5.8 | ★★ La Cosita, Left
Pro to 4". Stem, jam, chimney, and mantel your way up this surprisingly steep pitch. FFA: Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell, Dan Doody & Wally Upton, 1962 | 18m | |||
5.11a | ★★ Sparkling Give-away
Pro to 3.5". Traverse right along the horizontal crack (and a piton), then mantel your way up the bolted blunt arête. FFA: Pete Takeda & Eric Kohl, 1991 | 18m, 2 | |||
5.10c | ★ La Arista
Start on La Cosita right, then move up the bolted arête to the shared chain top anchor. Pro to 2". FFA: Chris Craig & Mike Creel, 1988 | 27m, 2 | |||
5.9 | ★★ La Cosita, Right
Pro to 2". FA: TM Herbert & Steve Roper, 1963 | 27m | |||
5.8 | ★ Little John, Left
Pro to 4". FFA: Dan Doody, Bob Kamps, Galen Rowell & Wally Upton, 1962 | 24m | |||
5.10d | ★★ Hardly Pinnacle
Starts atop 'Little John, Left'[20691043]. Pro to 1.5". This route can be top-roped by ascending the Heart Ledges fixed lines and swinging over to the bolted top anchor. FFA: Dale Bard & et al., 1972 | 24m | |||
5.8 | ★★ Little John, Right
Pro to 3". FFA: Jack Turner & Royal Robbins, 1962 | 79m, 3 | |||
5.10b | Sunday Driver
FFA: Ken Ariza, Mark Carpenter & Dimitri Barton, 1985 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Moby Dick, Left
Pro 2 ea. to 4". FFA: Bob Kamps & Frank Sacherer, 1963 | 49m, 2 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center
Difficult fingers at the start leading to a sustained wide section. Beautiful climbing. Pro to 4.5", 2 ea. 4". FFA: Franch Sacherer & Steve Roper, 1963 FA: Herb Swedlund & Penny Carr, 1963 | 58m, 2 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Ahab
Pro to 6". FA: Frank Sacherer & Jim Bridwell, 1964 | 47m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Reed's Leads
Pro to 2". Bolted top anchor. Two rope rappel. FFA: Wally Reed & Mike Borghoff, 1963 | 46m, 2 | |||
5.11a | ★ Seedy Leads
Pro to 1". Bolted top anchor. Two rope rappel. FA: Mark Chapman & Rick Sylvester, 1971 FFA: Clint Cummins & John Lockhart, 1988 | 46m, 3 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Thread of Life
Face climbing left of the P1 of Salathé Wall. Pro to 2". Two rope rappel. FFA: Clint Cummins & Dan Nguyen, 1988 | 4 | |||
5.10a | ★ Pterodactyl Terrace, Left
Pro to 2.5". Bolted top anchor. Two rope rappel. FA: Jim Sims & Steve Roper, 1963 FFA: Chris Fredericks & Frank Sacherer, 1965 | 46m | |||
5.11b | ★ Pterodactyl Terrace, Right
Pro to 2". Bolted top anchor. FA: Glen Denny & Eric Beck, 1963 FFA: Vern Clevenger, 1975 | 34m | |||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line
Pro to 2". FFA: Jeff Schaffer & Greg Schaffer, 1966 | 21m | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Pine Stein
Climb directly after Pine Line leading to the base of the Nose. 3 bolts with great placement for trad gear. Lay back crack climb. | 11m, 3 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Salathé Base
P1 and P2 only of the Salathé Wall. Pro to 4". | 69m, 2 | |||
Southeast Base Area | |||||
5.4 | ★★ The Footstool, Right
| ||||
Schultz's Ridge East Side | |||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Moratorium
| 120m | |||
Schultz's Ridge Dan and Jerry's Playground | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Just do me
Pumpy, technical climbing. Take some cams for the bottom section and watch your rope on the sharp flake. Can be top roped by climbing the route to the left. | 26m, 7 | |||
5.10a | Second Thoughts
Fun, juggy climbing past a big hanging flake then contrived face climbing up the arete to the right of the dirty gully. A couple of 3 - 4" cams are useful. | 26m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★★ New Suede Shoes
Fun moves on thin holds to a tricky move on fingerlocks past the rooflet. One 2" cam for the top section. | 21m, 7 | |||
5.10a | ★ Warm up crack
Take a couple of 3" cams for the upper section. | 18m, 4 | |||
5.10b | Proud snapper
Bolted face leading to a stemming corner. Take cams up to 3.5". | 27m, 3 | |||
Loggerhead Buttress | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Loggerhead Ledge Route
Dirty, offwidth and chimney climbing to a 3 star view | 76m, 3 |
Showing all 50 routes.