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Description

A short cliff right beside the road with some excellent crack climbing.

Approach

Jump on 120 heading out of Yosemite Village. Park in the turnoff just past the very first tunnel, you may have to go down the road a bit to turn around. Look for the post with a picture of a carabena on it and make the arduous 3 minute approach. The most prominent climb on the wall that you can't miss is 'Lunatic Fringe'.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10d Danger Will Robinson Unknown
2
5.10c Anal Tongue Darts Unknown
3
5.10d * Olga's Trick Unknown
4
5.10c Crazy Train Unknown
5
5.11d Isotope Unknown
6
5.10a * Chingando Unknown
7
5.5 * The Iota Unknown
8
5.10a The Tooth Unknown
9
5.13a * Crossroads Unknown
10
5.13a R * Phantom Unknown
11
5.11b Micron Unknown
12
5.10b The Remnant Left Side Unknown
16
5.10c Goosebumps Unknown
17
5.9 *** Reed's Direct Trad 240ft

FA: Wally Reed, Frank Sacerer, Mark Powell, Gary Colliver & Andy Lichman, 1964

18
5.9 ** Reed's Regular Route Trad 300ft

FA: Herb Swedlund & Wally Reed, 1957

19
5.9 Blaxing Buckets Unknown
20
5.8 * Bong's Away Left Unknown
21
5.10a Bong's Away Center Unknown
22
5.9 Bong's Away Right Unknown
23
5.10a * Magical Mystery Tour Unknown
24
5.11 X Duck and Cover Unknown
25
5.10d R * Old Five Ten Unknown
26
5.10a R Midnight Rampest Unknown
27
5.10c *** Lunatic Fringe Trad 140ft

Yosemite's best 5.10 crack apparently!!! It is outstanding, but very challenging, it will test all of your crack climbing skills and is a very difficult onsight. There is finger locks, ring locks, double finger locks, hands, fists, o/w, laybacks. An awesome climb.

28
5.10c Beyond the Fringe Unknown
29
5.9 * Flatus Unknown
30
5.7 * The Rorp Unknown
31
5.11b * Tooth or Consequence Unknown
32
US 5.10b ** Stone Groove Unknown 59ft
33
5.10b * Independent Route Unknown
34
5.8 The Gray Bullet Unknown
35
5.11c * Rocket in my Pocket Unknown
36
5.10d * Center Route Unknown
38
US 5.10a *** Direct Route Unknown 180ft
39
5.10d ** Steppin' Out Unknown
40
5.11a Cosmic Ray Unknown
41
5.8 ** Ejesta Unknown

The first pitch is ok with some finger cracks. The top pitches is the money with an amazing hand crack in a dihedral leading up to an easy o/w section - bring a C4 #4 to lower the spice, but you can do without. An easy albeit airy traverse is your finish.

42
5.10a Porter's Pout Unknown
43
5.11a Sylvester's Meao Unknown
44
5.9 ** Regular Route Unknown
45
5.10b X * Fasten your Seat Belte Unknown
46
5.10a X * Free Ride Unknown
47
5.11d R * Magic Carpet Unknown
48
5.11b * Cro-Magnon Capers Unknown
49
50
5.11b * Spring Fever Unknown
51
5.9 *** Reeds Regular Route (p1+p2) Unknown 190ft