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Description

A short cliff right beside the road with some excellent crack climbing.

Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

It is a national park.

Approach

Jump on 120 heading out of Yosemite Village. Park in the turnoff just past the very first tunnel, you may have to go down the road a bit to turn around. Look for the post with a picture of a carabena on it and make the arduous 3 minute approach. The most prominent climb on the wall that you can't miss is 'Lunatic Fringe'.

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Grade Route

FA: Wally Reed, Frank Sacerer, Mark Powell, Gary Colliver & Andy Lichman, 1964

FA: Herb Swedlund & Wally Reed, 1957

Yosemite's best 5.10 crack apparently!!! It is outstanding, but very challenging, it will test all of your crack climbing skills and is a very difficult onsight. There is finger locks, ring locks, double finger locks, hands, fists, o/w, laybacks. An awesome climb.

The first pitch is ok with some finger cracks. The top pitches is the money with an amazing hand crack in a dihedral leading up to an easy o/w section - bring a C4 #4 to lower the spice, but you can do without. An easy albeit airy traverse is your finish.

Activity

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