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Description

A short cliff right beside the road with some excellent crack climbing.

Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

It is a national park.

Approach

Jump on 120 heading out of Yosemite Village. Park in the turnoff just past the very first tunnel, you may have to go down the road a bit to turn around. Look for the post with a picture of a carabena on it and make the arduous 3 minute approach. The most prominent climb on the wall that you can't miss is 'Lunatic Fringe'.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.10d Danger Will Robinson Unknown
2
5.10c Anal Tongue Darts Unknown
3
5.10d * Olga's Trick Unknown
4
5.10c Crazy Train Unknown
5
5.11d Isotope Unknown
6
5.10a * Chingando Unknown
7
5.5 * The Iota Unknown
8
5.10a * The Tooth Unknown
9
5.13a * Crossroads Unknown
10
5.13a R * Phantom Unknown
11
5.11b Micron Unknown
12
5.10b The Remnant Left Side Unknown
16
5.10c Goosebumps Unknown
17
5.9 *** Reed's Direct Trad 240ft, 3

FA: Wally Reed, Frank Sacerer, Mark Powell, Gary Colliver & Andy Lichman, 1964

18
5.9 ** Reed's Regular Route Trad 300ft, 4

FA: Herb Swedlund & Wally Reed, 1957

19
5.9 Blaxing Buckets Unknown
20
5.8 ** Bong's Away Left Unknown
21
5.10a Bong's Away Center Unknown
22
5.9 Bong's Away Right Unknown
23
5.10a * Magical Mystery Tour Unknown
24
5.11 X Duck and Cover Unknown
25
5.10d R * Old Five Ten Unknown
26
5.10a R Midnight Rampest Unknown
27
5.10c *** Lunatic Fringe Trad 140ft

Yosemite's best 5.10 crack apparently!!! It is outstanding, but very challenging, it will test all of your crack climbing skills and is a very difficult onsight. There is finger locks, ring locks, double finger locks, hands, fists, o/w, laybacks. An awesome climb.

28
5.10c Beyond the Fringe Unknown
29
5.9 * Flatus Unknown
30
5.7 * The Rorp Unknown
31
5.11b * Tooth or Consequence Unknown
32
5.10b *** Stone Groove Trad 59ft
33
5.10b * Independent Route Unknown
34
5.8 The Gray Bullet Unknown
35
5.11c ** Rocket in my Pocket Unknown
36
5.10d * Center Route Unknown
39
5.10d ** Steppin' Out Unknown
40
5.11a Cosmic Ray Unknown
41
5.8 ** Ejesta Trad 60ft

The first pitch is ok with some finger cracks. The top pitches is the money with an amazing hand crack in a dihedral leading up to an easy o/w section - bring a C4 #4 to lower the spice, but you can do without. An easy albeit airy traverse is your finish.

42
5.10a Porter's Pout Unknown
43
5.11a Sylvester's Meao Unknown
44
5.9 ** Regular Route Unknown
45
5.10b X * Fasten your Seat Belte Unknown
46
5.10a X * Free Ride Unknown
47
5.11d R * Magic Carpet Unknown
48
5.11b * Cro-Magnon Capers Unknown
49
50
5.11b * Spring Fever Unknown
51
5.9 *** Reeds Regular Route (p1+p2) Unknown 190ft

Activity

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