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Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

It is a national park.

Approach

Drive to the "El Cap" parking area where the Bear Bins are. Walk towards the face of "El Cap" and pick up the obvious climbers trail. A short 10 mins later and you will be walking directly up to the start of "The Nose", the first climb you come too.

Descent notes

Do not underestimate the difficulty of the descent from the top of El Capitan, prepare appropriately with water and food. The Yosemite Falls Trail took me 10 hours (approx 9 miles) to complete as a big wall party with a single haul bag, portaledge and rack and 2 ropes. It was gruelling. I haven't tried the Eastern Ledges Descent but highly recommend it, it can't be worst than the Yosemite Falls Trail.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.10 A3+ VI Lost World Aid
2
5.10 A3+ VI Squeeze Play Aid
3
5.10 A4 VI Hole World Aid
4
5.9 A3 VI West Buttress Aid 2000ft, 20
6
5.7 A3 VI Never Never Land Aid 2000ft, 20
7
5.7 A3 VI Aquarian Wall Aid 2000ft, 20
8
5.10 A5 VI Winds of Change Aid
9
5.10+ A4 VI Wings of Steel Aid
10
5.7 A3 VI ** Horse Chute Aid 2000ft, 20
11
5.9 A3 VI Horse Play Aid
12
5.8 A3 VI ** Dihedral Wall Aid 2400ft, 26
13
5.7 A4 VI ** Cosmos Aid 2400ft, 24
14
5.8 A3 VI ** Excalibur Aid 2700ft, 28
15
5.11c A4+ VI Bermuda Dunes Aid
16
5.9 A4 VI The Heart Route Aid
17
5.9 A4 VI Pacemaker Aid
18
5.8 A3+ VI ** Son of Heart (aka Heart Woute) Aid 2700ft, 29
19
5.8 A3 VI Sunkist Aid 2900ft, 31
20
5.10 A5 VI Jolly Roger Aid
21
5.7 A3 VI Magic Mushroom Aid 2900ft, 31
22
{AU} YDS:5.9 AID:A3+ NCCS:VI *** The Shield Aid 2900ft, 30
23
5.9 A4 VI Dorn Direct Aid
24
5.9 A2 VI ** Muir Wall Aid 2900ft, 33
25
{AU} YDS:5.9 AIDC:C4 NCCS:VI *** Muir Wall (All Clean) Aid 2900ft, 33
26
5.12d VI *** Freerider Trad 2900ft, 35

FA: Alex Huber

27
5.9 C2 VI *** Salathe Wall Aid 2900ft, 35

FA: Royal Robbins, Tom Frost & Chuck Pratt, 1961

FFA: Todd Skinner & Paul Piana, 1988

28
{AU} YDS:5.8 AIDC:C2 NCCS:VI *** Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) Aid 2900ft, 30
29
5.9 A2 VI Grape Race Aid 1400ft, 12
30
5.9 C2 VI *** The Nose Aid 3400ft, 31

On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style.

The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick.

FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore, 1958

FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993

Activity

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