Eagle Creek Area Guide

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Table of contents

1. Eagle Creek Area 22 routes in Area



Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Long/Lat: -119.618864, 37.731114

Access Issues

It is a national park.

inherited from Yosemite National Park

1.1. Manure Pile Buttress 17 routes in Crag

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Long/Lat: -119.618913, 37.731022

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chairman Ted Scraps the Time Machine 5.10a Unknown
2 God's Creation

Pro to 3".

5.9 Trad 100ft
3 Hayley's Comet

Four bolts lead up the arĂȘte to the left of After Six. Keep a close belay for the first 2 bolts, and don't fall.

To set a top-rope, scramble up left on 4th class terrain to the P2 anchor of Jump for Joy, then rappel down to the P1 anchor.

FFA: Lance Alred & Jason Torlano

5.10a PG13 Sport 70ft, 4
4 Jump for Joy
  1. 70ft (5.9 R) Start between Haley's Comet and After Six. Face climbing up broken cracks leads past some new and old bolts. Continue left to the bolted anchor shared with Haley's Comet.

  2. 80ft Continue up cracks to a ledge and bolted anchor. To descend from here, rappel the route or 4th class scramble left.

Pitches 3 to 5 are seldom climbed, but continue up faces, cracks, and dihedrals to the top of the buttress while staying left of After Six.

Pro to 0.75" for the first 2 pitches. Pro to 2" for the full route.

FFA: Yvon Chouinard & Joy Herron, 1967

5.9 R Trad 150ft, 5
5 Beer Pressure 5.10a R Unknown
6 After Six
  1. 130ft (5.7) Jam up the right-facing dihedral with insecure footholds on slick, polished rock. Belay at the tree.

  2. 50ft (3rd class) Scramble up 3rd class to a large manzanita at the base of a wide crack.

  3. 80ft (5.6) Wide crack climbing leads to face climbing. Continue up and right to belay at an alcove on a ledge.

  4. 130ft (5.5) Easy slab climbing leads to a large ledge.

  5. 80ft (5.6) Easy slab climbing on knobs leads to crux liebacking up a flake. Continue up to another large ledge and belay at the tree.

  6. 90ft (5.6) Follow the crack up and right. Belay from cracks atop the buttress. A fun 5.8 alternate finish follows the thin flakes and broken cracks up left before traversing back right across the steepest rock directly below the summit.

Walk off descent with short 3rd and 4th class exposure. Retreat earlier by rappelling with 2 ropes or escaping left atop pitch 4.

Pro to 2".

FFA: Yvon Chouinard & Ruth Schneider, Jun 2065

5.7 Trad 600ft, 6
7 After Seven

An excellent alternate start to After Six with committing crack climbing and much less polish.

  1. 120ft (5.8) Hand and finger crack climbing leads to face climbing at the crux. Belay near the large manzanita.

  2. 140ft (5.7) A hand crack leads to low angle scrambling to gain the ledge.

Rappel with 2 ropes (a single 70m rope may or may not suffice), or join up with pitch 3 of After Six.

Pro to 2".

FFA: unknown

5.8 Trad 260ft, 2
8 Just Do-Do It

Thin face climbing past 2 bolts leads up to a protectable crack. Pro to 1.5".

FFA: unknown

5.10a Mixed 60ft, 2
9 C.S. Concerto
  1. 120ft (5.6) Follow the 3" crack up and right to face climbing through broken vertical cracks. Continue up left to belay from the tree on the ledge. Alternatively, climb P1 of Fecophilia (5.9 R) before cutting left to the belay.

  2. 100ft (5.8) Head straight up the crack, pull the crux mantle, and belay from the large ledge.

  3. 140ft (5.7 R) Follow broken cracks and flakes through bulges and runout face climbing. Belay from the pod.

  4. 110ft (5.4) Follow the cracks up to the large ledge.

Walk off left or continue up the last 2 pitches of After Six. Pro to 3".

FFA: Yvon Chouinard, Chuck Pratt & Mort Hempel, 1967

5.8 R Trad 470ft, 4
10 Fecophilia

Most parties just top-rope pitch 1. The second pitch is dirty, and the rest of the route is seldom climbed. To top-rope, climb pitch 1 of C.S. Concerto, or scramble up the 3rd class slope to the right.

Pro to 2".

FFA: Yvon Chouinard, Chuck Pratt & Mort Hempel, 1967

5.9 R Mixed 400ft, 4, 1
11 Easy Wind 5.9 R Unknown
12 The Mouse King 5.9 R Unknown
13 Renus Wrinkle

This route ascends the bolted face below Nutcracker between 'standard start' and 'the 5.9 variation'. Three good bolts protect the crux face moves before the route moves right on pro. Two old 1/4" bolts protect the next face moves. Either traverse right to the P1 anchor for the '5.9 Nutcracker variation', or continue up, build a gear anchor, and climb another short 5.8 pitch before joining Nutcracker.

Pro to 2.5".

FFA: Eric Mayo, Brian Bennett & Bob Ost, 1988

5.10a R Mixed 110ft, 5
14 Dynamic Doubles 5.9 Unknown
15 Flexible Flyer 5.10d Unknown
16 Nutcracker / The Nutcracker Sweet

FFA: Royal Robbins & Liz Robbins, May 2067

5.8 Trad 600ft, 5
17 Nutcracker Right Start

The splitter right trending crack to the right of 'Nutcracker'. Solo 30' up to the top of the shield, then dubious gear to get started in the incipient crack (take great care here - this is the crux and it's poorly protected). The crack widens as it goes right, offering bomber gear, but the slab underneath is very polished, making this a long and sustained pitch at the grade.

FFA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Bridwell & Cliff Jennings, 1969

5.9 Trad 200ft, 2

1.2. Commissioner Buttress 3 routes in Area

All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 After Five 5.7 Unknown
2 The Illusion 5.10d R Unknown
3 Commissioner Buttress 5.9 Unknown

1.3. Upper 2 routes in Area

All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Essence 5.11b Unknown
2 Split Pinnacle, East Arete 5.10c Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.7 After Six Trad 600ft, 6 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
After Five Unknown 1.2. Commissioner Buttress
5.8 After Seven Trad 260ft, 2 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
Nutcracker Trad 600ft, 5 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
5.8 R C.S. Concerto Trad 470ft, 4 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
5.9 Dynamic Doubles Unknown 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
Easy Wind Unknown 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
Fecophilia Mixed 400ft, 4, 1 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
God's Creation Trad 100ft 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
Nutcracker Right Start Trad 200ft, 2 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
The Mouse King Unknown 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
Commissioner Buttress Unknown 1.2. Commissioner Buttress
5.9 R Jump for Joy Trad 150ft, 5 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
5.10a Beer Pressure Unknown 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
Chairman Ted Scraps the Time Machine Unknown 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
Just Do-Do It Mixed 60ft, 2 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
5.10a PG13 Hayley's Comet Sport 70ft, 4 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
5.10a R Renus Wrinkle Mixed 110ft, 5 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
5.10c Split Pinnacle, East Arete Unknown 1.3. Upper
5.10d Flexible Flyer Unknown 1.1. Manure Pile Buttress
The Illusion Unknown 1.2. Commissioner Buttress
5.11b Essence Unknown 1.3. Upper