Routes in Middle Brother

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Showing all 48 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Rixon's Pinnacle
5.11 A1 Far West
5.10c West Face
Unknown 150m
5.11d A1 Direct South Face
5.11d South Face
5.10a East Chimney
5.10c Lkemens Variation
5.11b Final Decision
The Folly
5.9 A3 The Folly, Left
5.11c Disconnected
5.10d R Frosted Flakes
5.11a Childhood's End
5.11c Follying
5.12c Follywood
5.10c Wild Thing
5.11b Pink Torpedo
5.10d R The Good Book (aka Right Side of The Folly)
Unknown 220m
5.11b X Preface
Camp 4 Wall
5.10b Chicken's Choice

FFA: Sigrid Anderson & Jerry Anderson, 1986

Mixed 18m, 4
5.10c Young and the Restless

Pro to 6".

FFA: Werner Braun, Rick Cashner, Grant Hiskes, Scott Cole & Dimitri Barton, 1982

Trad 43m
5.10c Cost of Living

FFA: Rick Cashner & Don Reid, 1979

Mixed 1
5.10c Space Doubt

FFA: Alan Nelson & Y. Matsumoto, 1980

Unknown 3
5.10d Santa Barbara

Pro to 1.5".

FFA: Brian Knight & Rondo Powell, 1992

Mixed 18m, 1
5.11c R General Hospital

FFA: Rick Rieder, Phil Gleason & Chris Wegener, 1972

Trad 30m
5.10c Chopper

Pro to 6" with doubles 3"-6". Rappel descent. A single 60m barely reaches if you keep to the far right.

FFA: Mead Hargis & Rick Sylvester, 1971

Trad 35m
5.11c No Love-Chump Sucker

FFA: Cade Loyd, Jordy Margana & Ray Munoz, 1989

Unknown 5
5.11a Days of our Lives

FFA: Walt Shipley & et al.

Mixed 18m, 2
5.12a Sample the Dog

FFA: Cade Loyd, Ray Munoz & Pete Takeda, 1989

Unknown 18m, 5
5.10c Edge of Night

Pro 1"-6", 2 ea. 2"-4.5".

FFA: Chris Fredericks, Rich Doleman & Jim Bridwell, Oct 2067

Trad 55m, 2
5.10a Secret Storm

Pro to 4".

FFA: Peter Haan & Roger Breedlove, 1971

Trad 76m, 2
5.11b Out on a Limb

FFA: Eric Kohl & et al.

Mixed 2
5.8 Tweedle Dee

Pro to 4.5".

FFA: Frank Sacherer & Jim Baldwin, Jun 2063

Trad 110m, 3
5.10a Doggie Do

Pro to 7". Usually top-roped.

FFA: Chris Fredericks

Trad 12m
5.9 Doggie Diversions
1 5.7 40ft
2 5.9 60ft
3 5.8 180ft

Pro to 5" for every pitch. P1 and P2 can be linked.

  1. 40ft (5.7) Excellent chimney is difficult to protect.

  2. 60ft (5.9) Sustained hands to fists crack. Follow the right crack to finish at the Doggie Deviations anchor, or follow the left crack to P3.

  3. 180ft (5.8) Flaring crack leads around a bulge to a pair of thin cracks. Continue up a chimney to top out and build an anchor at boulders and a 1"-2" crack.

Descend by walking NE and looking for rappel slings. Rappel, then continue east around The Buttocks.

FFA: Joe Faint & Yvon Chouinard, Jun 2067

Trad 85m, 3
5.9 Doggie Deviations

Pro to 3", optional to 4". Crux finger crack leads to sustained 5.8 hand jams and liebacking. Finish at slings and rap rings on a tree.

FFA: Kim Schmitz & Jim Bridwell, 1968

Mixed 30m, 1
5.11d Bottom Line

FFA: Bill Price & Dimitri Barton, 1983

Trad 46m
5.11d Rock Bottom

Pro to 2.5".

FA: Kevin Worral & George Meyers, 1974

FFA: John Long & et al., 1980

Trad 2
5.9 The Buttocks

Pro to 3.5".

FFA: Kim Schmitz & Don Peterson, 1969

Trad 30m
5.10d R Cheek

FFA: Jim Bridwell, 1972

Trad 30m
5.11b Cristina
1 5.10a 70ft
2 5.11b 70ft

Doubles of wide pro to 4"-7" for P1. Top anchor shared with Henley Quits.

FA: Mead Hargis & Dave Davis, 1971

FFA: John Long & et al., 1980

Mixed 43m, 2, 5
5.10b Henley Quits

Pro to 7".

FFA: Mark Klemens & Rick Sylvester, 1970

Trad 43m
5.8 Cid's Embrace

Pro to 4". Rappel anchor at 60ft allows single rope rappels. Top anchor shared with Lancelot.

FFA: Rick Sylvester & Mark Klemens, 1970

Trad 34m
5.9 Lancelot

Pro to 4". Descend by rappelling Cid's Embrace.

FFA: Rick Sylvester & Mark Klemens, 1970

Trad 35m
5.11d Dynamo Hum

Pro to 2".

FA: Mort Hempel & Bob Kamps, 1960

FFA: Tobin Sorenson & John Long, 1975

Trad 30m
5.10 Gillette

Pro to 3.5".

FFA: Pete Livesey & Ron Fawcett, 1974

Trad 5
5.10+ Mudflaps

FFA: Tucker Tech & Troy Johnson

Mixed 2
5.10c Fallout

Pro 2 ea. 3"-3.5".

FFA: Jim Donini & Steve Wunsch, 1972

Trad 2
5.9 Jolly Green Giant

FFA: John Bragg & Rab Carrington, 1972

5.10a Apple Seeds

Pro to 3".

FFA: Bob Sullivan & Jim Beyer, 1978


Showing all 48 routes.