Grade / ascent band
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It is a national park.
(SuperTopo description is incorrect.) Rap with 2 ropes or walk off 4th class left. Pro to 2".
FFA: Kim Schmitz & Frank Trummel, 1966
FFA: Walt Shipley
Often TR'ed with directionals after Uncle Fanny. Pro to 3".
FFA: Jim Beyer & Misa Giesey, 1978
Pro to 3".
Descend with 80' rappel.
FA: Bruce Price & Michael McLean, 1970
4th class approach. Descend via 100' rappel. Pro to 1".
FFA: unknown, 1987
Descend carefully via 100' rappel followed by 4th class downclimbing.
FFA: John Harpole & et al.
Descend via two rope rappel, or careful 100' rappel and 4th class downclimbing. Pro to 1.5".
FFA: unknown, 1982
Garden your way through munge and moss, starting in the dirty dihedral somewhere above Pole Position.
FFA: Clint Cummins & Joel Ager, 1989
Pro to 2.5". Natural top anchor.
FFA: Mark Carpenter & et al.
Pro to 3".
FA: Sheridan Anderson & Leo LebBon, 1965
FFA: Mark Carpenter & Jeff Hornibrook
Starts above Aunt Fanny's Pantry.
FFA: Walk Shipley & et al., 1989
Starts above Aunt Fanny's Pantry. P1 only. Two addtional pitches (5.10) continue up on poor quality rock and are seldom climbed.
FFA: Bill Russell, Walt Shipley & Eric Kohl, 1990
80' (5.10d) Climb the right leaning hand crack, traverse right, then follow the pinscarred crack. Traverse right to belay at the tree.
60' (5.11a) This and higher pitches are seldom climbed.
Pro to 2.5" with offsets.
FA: Gordon Webster & Chuck Ostin, 1965
FFA: Bob Finn & Chris Falkenstein, 1974
60' (5.10b) Climb the pin-scarred right-leaning crack. Great clean aid practice.
Seldom climbed. Rivet and bolt ladder leads to tree with rap rings.
FA: Tom Rohr
FA: Mike Jefferson & Dave Collins, 1970
FA: Dana Brown, 1980
Pro to 3.5". To descend, walk right and rap 90' from bolts.
FFA: Dan McDevitt & Sue McDevitt, 1990
FFA: Dave Bengston, 1990
FFA: Jim Bridwell & Hamish Mutch, 1965
FFA: Walt Shipley & Eric Kohl, 1990
100' (5.7) Up the finger crack making your way up to the obvious hand crack. Gear belay (pro 1"-1.5"). A large flake takes a nice sling but puts you in a semi hanging belay.
80' (5.8) Follow the awesome hand crack up to the dual crack system, move to the righthand system to finish out.
Pro to 4". 60m rap. This can be done as one long pitch.
FA: Russ Warne, Dave McFadden & Steve Roper, 1959
FFA: Chuck Pratt & Herb Swedlund, 1960
FFA: Stephanie McCormack & Walt Shipley
FFA: Walt Shipley & Tucker Tech, 1987
Poor rock quality.
FA: Dimitri Barton
(5.5) Approach the balcony via ramp on the right.
(A3) Follow crack up and over the roof.
Rap down via Bishop's Terrace.
FA: Frank Sacherer & Gary Colliver, 1962
Pro to 2".
Pro to 2.5".
FFA: Mark Carpenter, 1988
FFA: Mark Carpenter & Scott Stow, 1988
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