Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

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Grade Route

(SuperTopo description is incorrect.) Rap with 2 ropes or walk off 4th class left. Pro to 2".

FFA: Kim Schmitz & Frank Trummel, 1966


FFA: Walt Shipley

Often TR'ed with directionals after Uncle Fanny. Pro to 3".

FFA: Jim Beyer & Misa Giesey, 1978

Pro to 3". Descend with 80' rappel.

FA: Bruce Price & Michael McLean, 1970

4th class approach. Descend via 100' rappel. Pro to 1".

FFA: unknown, 1987

Descend carefully via 100' rappel followed by 4th class downclimbing.

FFA: John Harpole & et al.

Descend via two rope rappel, or careful 100' rappel and 4th class downclimbing. Pro to 1.5".

FFA: unknown, 1982

Garden your way through munge and moss, starting in the dirty dihedral somewhere above Pole Position.

FFA: Clint Cummins & Joel Ager, 1989

Pro to 2.5". Natural top anchor.

FFA: Mark Carpenter & et al.

Pro to 3".

FA: Sheridan Anderson & Leo LebBon, 1965

Pro to 3".

FFA: Mark Carpenter & Jeff Hornibrook

Starts above Aunt Fanny's Pantry.

FFA: Walk Shipley & et al., 1989

Starts above Aunt Fanny's Pantry. P1 only. Two addtional pitches (5.10) continue up on poor quality rock and are seldom climbed.

FFA: Bill Russell, Walt Shipley & Eric Kohl, 1990

  1. 80' (5.10d) Climb the right leaning hand crack, traverse right, then follow the pinscarred crack. Traverse right to belay at the tree.

  2. 60' (5.11a) This and higher pitches are seldom climbed.

Pro to 2.5" with offsets.

FA: Gordon Webster & Chuck Ostin, 1965

FFA: Bob Finn & Chris Falkenstein, 1974

  1. 60' (5.10b) Climb the pin-scarred right-leaning crack. Great clean aid practice.

  2. Seldom climbed. Rivet and bolt ladder leads to tree with rap rings.

FA: Tom Rohr

FA: Mike Jefferson & Dave Collins, 1970

FFA: unknown, 1982

FA: Dana Brown, 1980

Pro to 3.5". To descend, walk right and rap 90' from bolts.

FFA: unknown

FFA: Dan McDevitt & Sue McDevitt, 1990

FFA: Dave Bengston, 1990

Pro to 3".

FFA: Jim Bridwell & Hamish Mutch, 1965

FFA: Walt Shipley & Eric Kohl, 1990

  1. 100' (5.7) Up the finger crack making your way up to the obvious hand crack. Gear belay (pro 1"-1.5"). A large flake takes a nice sling but puts you in a semi hanging belay.

  2. 80' (5.8) Follow the awesome hand crack up to the dual crack system, move to the righthand system to finish out.

Pro to 4". 60m rap. This can be done as one long pitch.

FA: Russ Warne, Dave McFadden & Steve Roper, 1959

FFA: Chuck Pratt & Herb Swedlund, 1960

FFA: Stephanie McCormack & Walt Shipley

FFA: Walt Shipley & Tucker Tech, 1987

FFA: Walt Shipley & Tucker Tech, 1987

Poor rock quality.

FFA: Walt Shipley & Tucker Tech, 1987

FA: Dimitri Barton

  1. (5.5) Approach the balcony via ramp on the right.

  2. (A3) Follow crack up and over the roof.

Rap down via Bishop's Terrace.

FA: Frank Sacherer & Gary Colliver, 1962

Pro to 2".

FFA: Walt Shipley & Eric Kohl, 1990

Pro to 2.5".

FFA: Mark Carpenter, 1988

Gear optional.

FFA: Mark Carpenter & Scott Stow, 1988

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