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Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

It is a national park.



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Grade Route

From where the approach trail meets the cliff head up and left along the face for about 180 ft, passing one bolt line, looking for a left facing corner with blocky climbing up and right up the corner with a bolt line rising up and rightwards (for three bolts, then curving back left) on the face to the left of the corner.

  1. 140ft, 5.2, to a large ledge with thin crack in the back. (Supertopo guide shows three bolts -- they don't exist as of 2014, and no sign of their ever having existed.)

  2. 150ft 5.7. Climb up the thin crack, then up poorly protected face to a splitter crack, then crack/chimney system to a ledge and tree.

  3. 100ft. 5.7. Walk to the left edge of the ledge, then step left off the edge into a crack and flake system. Climb up this trending leftwards to a solid crack then up to a hanging belay (bolts). (Link P3 and P4 with a 70m rope to avoid hanging belay.)

  4. 5.8 110ft. Climb up the obvious crack system above the belay, step right as it peters out to another crack system, and up past a small roof to the belay on a small ledge (bolts).

  5. Climb up the cracks above to the wide-fingers steeper final section (5.9), then step left to the anchor (bolts).

Rap to the hanging belay, then from there off the left edge of the ramp to a tree, then to the ground.

FA: Gene Drake & Rex Spaith, 1971

FA: Glen Denny & Les Wilson, 1961

FFA: Tom Higgins & Chris Jones, 1967

This climb was the first free route up the buttress, it was done before the much better Sons, Sons was full of dirt and took months of cleaning with ice axes and thats why I chose this line, it isn't recommended at all, do Sons.

FA: Dimitri Barton-Steve Gerberding


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