Access issues inherited from Yosemite National Park

It is a national park.



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Grade Route

An exceptionally popular easy route up the central buttress between the two arch features. For such a popular route the climbing isn't actually that great, with lots of rambly 4th class pitches to start, an unavoidable aid move, and some mungy bits as well. The climb is also quite linear, especially up high, so passing slower parties or climbing parallel to them isn't particularly easy.

  1. 5.6 100ft Chimney. There are several variant starts, most of which are better than this pitch.

  2. 5.4 200ft Walk right along ledge to short crack (5.4).

  3. 4th 200ft Continue right along ledge.

  4. 5.6 100ft Crack on face.

  5. 3rd 200ft Continue right along ledge until it ends.

  6. 5.6 or 5.7 100ft Up cracks (5.7), or the exposed corner further right (5.6) to dead pine tree (lots of belay options).

  7. 5.6 150ft Up cracks and blocks (optional belay) then up sandy pin-scarred groove.

  8. 5.6 100ft Sustained jamming to tree.

  9. 5.6 100ft Easy offwidth trench to lovely cracks.

  10. 5.4 100ft Blocks to A0 pendulum (goes free at 5.10c - slick water polished slab). Move left along ledge system to base of next corner.

  11. 5.7 100ft Flake and tree, then step left around major arete.

  12. 5.6 165ft 2 corners to belay at tree.

  13. 5.5 100ft Angle up and left with tricky pro.

  14. 4th 100ft Continue angling up and left on slab to rappel bolts. The rappel route starts here.

  15. 5.4 150ft Exposed horizontal slabbing left to trees. Rim is 300ft above here.

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