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Routes

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2
5.9 God's Creation Trad

Pro to 3".

3
5.10a PG13 ** Hayley's Comet Sport 70ft, 4

Four bolts lead up the arête to the left of After Six. Keep a close belay for the first 2 bolts, and don't fall.

To set a top-rope, scramble up left on 4th class terrain to the P2 anchor of Jump for Joy, then rappel down to the P1 anchor.

FFA: Lance Alred, Jason Torlano

4
5.9 R * Jump for Joy Trad 150ft
  1. 70ft (5.9 R) Start between Haley's Comet and After Six. Face climbing up broken cracks leads past some new and old bolts. Continue left to the bolted anchor shared with Haley's Comet.

  2. 80ft Continue up cracks to a ledge and bolted anchor. To descend from here, rappel the route or 4th class scramble left.

Pitches 3 to 5 are seldom climbed, but continue up faces, cracks, and dihedrals to the top of the buttress while staying left of After Six.

Pro to 0.75" for the first 2 pitches. Pro to 2" for the full route.

FFA: Yvon Chouinard, Joy Herron, 1967

5
5.10a R Beer Pressure Unknown
6
5.7 * After Six Trad 600ft
  1. 130ft (5.7) Jam up the right-facing dihedral with insecure footholds on slick, polished rock. Belay at the tree.

  2. 50ft (3rd class) Scramble up 3rd class to a large manzanita at the base of a wide crack.

  3. 80ft (5.6) Wide crack climbing leads to face climbing. Continue up and right to belay at an alcove on a ledge.

  4. 130ft (5.5) Easy slab climbing leads to a large ledge.

  5. 80ft (5.6) Easy slab climbing on knobs leads to crux liebacking up a flake. Continue up to another large ledge and belay at the tree.

  6. 90ft (5.6) Follow the crack up and right. Belay from cracks atop the buttress. A fun 5.8 alternate finish follows the thin flakes and broken cracks up left before traversing back right across the steepest rock directly below the summit.

Walk off descent with short 3rd and 4th class exposure. Retreat earlier by rappelling with 2 ropes or escaping left atop pitch 4.

Pro to 2".

FFA: Yvon Chouinard, Ruth Schneider, 1965

7
5.8 ** After Seven Trad 260ft

An excellent alternate start to After Six with committing crack climbing and much less polish.

  1. 120ft (5.8) Hand and finger crack climbing leads to face climbing at the crux. Belay near the large manzanita.

  2. 140ft (5.7) A hand crack leads to low angle scrambling to gain the ledge.

Rappel with 2 ropes (a single 70m rope may or may not suffice), or join up with pitch 3 of After Six.

Pro to 2".

FFA: unknown

8
5.10a * Just Do-Do It Mixed 60ft, 2

Thin face climbing past 2 bolts leads up to a protectable crack. Pro to 1.5".

FFA: unknown

9
5.8 R * C.S. Concerto Trad 470ft
  1. 120ft (5.6) Follow the 3" crack up and right to face climbing through broken vertical cracks. Continue up left to belay from the tree on the ledge. Alternatively, climb P1 of Fecophilia (5.9 R) before cutting left to the belay.

  2. 100ft (5.8) Head straight up the crack, pull the crux mantle, and belay from the large ledge.

  3. 140ft (5.7 R) Follow broken cracks and flakes through bulges and runout face climbing. Belay from the pod.

  4. 110ft (5.4) Follow the cracks up to the large ledge.

Walk off left or continue up the last 2 pitches of After Six. Pro to 3".

FFA: Yvon Chouinard, Chuck Pratt, Mort Hempel, 1967

10
5.9 R * Fecophilia Mixed 400ft, 1

Most parties just top-rope pitch 1. The second pitch is dirty, and the rest of the route is seldom climbed. To top-rope, climb pitch 1 of C.S. Concerto, or scramble up the 3rd class slope to the right.

Pro to 2".

FFA: Yvon Chouinard, Chuck Pratt, Mort Hempel, 1967

11
5.9 R Easy Wind Unknown
12
5.9 R The Mouse King Unknown
13
5.10a R * Renus Wrinkle Mixed 110ft, 5

This route ascends the bolted face below Nutcracker between 'standard start' and 'the 5.9 variation'. Three good bolts protect the crux face moves before the route moves right on pro. Two old 1/4" bolts protect the next face moves. Either traverse right to the P1 anchor for the '5.9 Nutcracker variation', or continue up, build a gear anchor, and climb another short 5.8 pitch before joining Nutcracker.

Pro to 2.5".

FFA: Eric Mayo, Brian Bennett, Bob Ost, 1988

14
5.9 * Dynamic Doubles Unknown
15
5.10d Flexible Flyer Unknown
16

FFA: Royal Robbins, Liz Robbins, 1967

17
5.9 *** Nutcracker Right Start Trad 200ft

FFA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Bridwell, Cliff Jennings, 1969

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