More than 1,000 Ascents in Yosemite National Park

 
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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 ascents

Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
Wed 20th Aug '14 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Wildcat Falls Area Knobby Wall
5.12c ** Meltdown - with Ryan Surface Very Good Unknown Yosemite National Park Ryan Surface
Wed 20th Aug '14
Wed 18th Nov '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Washington Column South Face
5.8 C1 V *** South Face

Came back to get retribution from our first barely send. Left the bivy gear and the rations on the ground and bagged an in a day winter ascent. We hit an amazing weather window and didn't see another party anywhere the entire day. Simuled first 3 and last 3 pitches and freed up to 5.10d.

Mega Classic Aid 370m Yosemite National Park Chris Ahlgren
Wed 18th Nov '15
5.8 C1 V *** South Face

Originally climbed this route as a proper big wall (2 days) and got spanked. Stuck behind a slow party in 90 degree full sun, used a few pitches of Southern Man to pass, ran out of water, took a mega whipper, and forced to bivy on top.

Mega Classic Aid 370m Yosemite National Park Chris Ahlgren
Sat 15th Sep '12
Sun 1st Nov '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face
5.9 C2 VI *** The Nose

At it again because we love it so much. Went lighter than last time and made it to Camp 4 on day 1. Cruised through to Camp 6 on day 2 then meandered to the summit by lunchtime day 3. Got to lead the Boot and Great Roof this time around with was pretty sweet. Definitely feeling more confident with this big wall thing second time around.

- with Trent,Ronan
Mega Classic Aid 1000m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Sun 1st Nov '15
Sun 1st Nov '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area
5.7 ** Pine Line Classic Trad 21m Yosemite National Park Karl Bromelow
Sun 1st Nov '15
Sun 1st Nov '15 - Yosemite National Park
Tuolumne Meadows Mariuolumne Area The Lamb West Face
5.10a * Little Sheba Classic Trad Yosemite National Park Karl Bromelow
Sun 1st Nov '15
Sat 31st Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches The Royal Arches Center
5.10a *** Royal Arches Route Good Trad 430m Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
Sat 31st Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress
5.8 *** Nutcracker Trad 180m Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
Sat 31st Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area
5.8 ** La Cosita, Left Trad 18m Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
Sat 31st Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Highway Star Bluff
5.10a * Highway Star Very Good Trad 18m Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
Sat 31st Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Five and Dime Cliff
5.8 Mockery Sport 9 Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
5.10c * Bijou Sport 18m, 6 Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
5.11d Nickel Bag Unknown Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
Sat 31st Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Knob Hill
5.8 * Movin' to Montana Unknown Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
Sat 31st Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Church Bowl
5.8 *** Bishop's Terrace Trad 55m Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
5.11b ** The Energizer Sport 21m, 10 Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
5.10a * Revival Trad 40m Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
5.8 ** Church Bowl Lieback Trad 37m Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
5.9 * Black is Brown Trad 44m Yosemite National Park Matthew Perrett
Sat 31st Oct '15
Sun 25th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face
5.10b *** East Buttress

Awesome day out. Only one 10b move on the second pitch and the rest of this route is just plain amazing. Exposed as anything with plenty enough technical climbing to keep you interested.

- with Ronan
Classic Trad 500m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Sun 25th Oct '15
Wed 28th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area
5.10a *** Sacherer Cracker

Best crack climb of my life!!! From thin finger jams to a spicy off width at the top with everything in between.

- with Ronan
Mega Classic Trad 46m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Wed 28th Oct '15
5.11b * Short But Thin

Great climb to do top rope laps on to practice some weird Yosemite flaring moves.

- with olly
Very Good Trad 12m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Sat 24th Oct '15
5.10a *** Moby Dick, Center

Absolutely gorgeous climbing. The first half was the money with cool fingers and thin hands. The second half was just pumping through a big off hands section to the anchors.

- with Ronan
Mega Classic Trad 58m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Sat 24th Oct '15
Wed 14th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Sunnyside Bench
5.9 ** Jamcrack Route Good Trad 53m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Wed 14th Oct '15
5.9 Lemon Very Good Trad Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Wed 14th Oct '15
Wed 14th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Church Bowl
5.8 *** Bishop's Terrace Mega Classic Trad 55m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Wed 14th Oct '15
Wed 21st Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face
5.9 C2 VI *** The Nose

Unbelievable!! Sieged it in a team of three with a heavy pig over three days. Made it to El Cap Tower on Day 1 after jamming my way through the awesome stove legs cracks. Day 2 we got held up a little on Texas flake before Olly smashed through the King swing and Trent led us through the Great Roof and up to Camp 5 in the dark. Day 3 was just a mission to the top trying to avoid a bunch of NIAD teams. Topped out at about 8.30 and had an awesome summit party with a few of the other teams.

- with Trent,Olly
Mega Classic Aid 1000m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Wed 21st Oct '15
Sat 17th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Washington Column Base Area
5.10b ** Jo Jo

Superb and hard crack.

- with Olly
Mega Classic Trad 26m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Sat 17th Oct '15
Sat 17th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area
5.10b ** Knuckleheads

Technical and scary mantles all the way. A great sport route.

- with Ronan
Classic Sport 27m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Sat 17th Oct '15
5.8 * Nurdle

Sweet and easy.

- with Ronan
Classic Trad 55m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Sat 17th Oct '15
5.10c ** Sherrie's Crack

Finger crack was super hard and hand crack was sensational.

- with Ronan
Classic Trad 24m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Sat 17th Oct '15
5.10b ** Knob Job

Sweet crack and knob hauling.

- with Ronan
  • 1: lead by Ronan
  • 2: lead by Adam
Classic Trad 61m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Sat 17th Oct '15
Sat 17th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff
5.11a *** Outer Limits

Best hand crack I've ever done. Sustained and awesome all the way. Lowered off the first pitch anchor.

- with Ronan
  • 1: lead by Adam
  • 2:
Mega Classic Trad 47m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Sat 17th Oct '15
Thu 15th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Base Area
5.10c *** Salathé Base

The twin cracks on the first pitch are unbelievable! Take more than 1 x #3 cam on the second pitch. I had to cam shuffle the whole thing.

- with Olly
  • 1: lead by Olly
  • 2: lead by Adam
Mega Classic Trad 69m Yosemite National Park Adam Straw
Thu 15th Oct '15
Fri 16th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Tuolumne Meadows Medlicott Area Medlicott Dome Center
5.11c X *** Bachar/Yerian

TRS the 5.6 access pitch, P1 and P2 as a giant 90m pitch. Would be true megaclassic with 3 more bolts in 90m (and only R-rated, instead of X-rated). It has some bolts to stop it being utter death, so why not be reasonable? I cruised the access pitch; clean P1 to the v5 crux (lots of falls to figure THAT out), then clean to the end; 1 fall off the belay on P2, then clean to anchors. An epic fight! Stunning, steep, hyper-technical thin knob climbing on an immaculate black streak. Truly stunning!

Classic Trad Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Fri 16th Oct '15
Thu 15th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley South Lower Merced Canyon Tutleback Dome The Rostrum North Face
5.11c *** The Regular North Face Route

Onsighting all the crux (graded) pitches on The Rostrum felt like I passed my final Yosemite test. Sure, we didnt top out (we stopped below the upper offwidths at P5, due to it raining the entire climb, my 2nd struggling to follow, and me getting tired from leading (and onsighting) every pitch) but it was an amazing battle in atrocious conditions. Every pitch on this feels hard at the grade (even by Yosemite sandbag-standards) but they are all immaculate and demanding. Best free route in Valley.

Mega Classic Unknown Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Thu 15th Oct '15
Mon 5th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face
5.7 R *** Snake Dike

Somehow I had never done this!?! It's really really good. Well protected where it counts.

Mega Classic Trad 550m Yosemite National Park Gareth Llewellin
Mon 5th Oct '15
Thu 8th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Tuolumne Meadows Mariuolumne Area Drug Dome
5.10d *** Oz

The 3rd pitch is pretty outstanding! No laybacking required contrary to what some say. Amazing rock and route overall.

Mega Classic Unknown Yosemite National Park Gareth Llewellin
Thu 8th Oct '15
Mon 12th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Tuolumne Meadows Daff Area Daff Dome West Face Left
5.9 *** West Crack Mega Classic Trad 210m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Mon 12th Oct '15
Sun 11th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Generator Station
5.10c ** Generator Crack Classic Trad 18m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Sun 11th Oct '15
Fri 9th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Lower Ampitheater
5.10a Guiding Light

Found the thin section up top spicy for the grade. Maybe 10b/c?

Classic Trad 24m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Fri 9th Oct '15
5.8 ** Ranger Crack Classic Mixed 21m, 2 Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Fri 9th Oct '15
Thu 8th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Church Bowl
5.8 ** Church Bowl Lieback Classic Trad 37m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Thu 8th Oct '15
Wed 7th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Glacier Point Glacier Point Apron Center
5.8 ** Harry Daley Classic Trad 70m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Wed 7th Oct '15
Mon 5th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Five Open Books
5.6 ** Munginella Classic Trad 110m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Mon 5th Oct '15
Wed 7th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab
5.6 * Oak Tree Flake Good Trad 30m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Wed 7th Oct '15
5.9 Grant's Crack Classic Trad 24m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Tue 6th Oct '15
5.10a * Penthouse Cracks (Left) Very Good Top rope 6m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Tue 6th Oct '15
5.8 ** Penthouse Cracks (Far Right) Good Trad 12m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Tue 6th Oct '15
5.11a * Penthouse Cracks (Right) Good Top rope 6m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Tue 6th Oct '15
5.11b * Aid Route

Got it free!

Very Good Mixed 55m, 3 Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Thu 1st Oct '15
5.6 Swan Slab Gully Average Trad 98m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Thu 1st Oct '15
5.7 Penelope's Problem Good Trad 18m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Thu 1st Oct '15
Sun 23rd Aug '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face
5.7 R *** Snake Dike - with Bin Zhu Classic Trad 550m Yosemite National Park Alon Albert
Sun 23rd Aug '15
Thu 15th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Wildcat Falls Area Knobby Wall
5.12c ** Meltdown

Despite a fair bit of effort, I never managed to make it through the opening steep boulder problem to the 1st bolt (at 4m, which I'd stick clipped). Farking steep and powerful bouldering on a rope.

Good Unknown Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Thu 15th Oct '15
5.10b ** The Flake

Sure, this is only about 10m high, but its also ALLl trad on a 30 degree overhang for 10m. I was on this for a surprising amount of time as I struggled to whipe dirt and moss off the mantle topout before committing. Very juggy, but bloody steep and pumpy.

Good Trad Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Thu 15th Oct '15
Wed 14th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Five Open Books
5.10a * Deaf, Dumb and Blind

Ended up on this by mistake (was aiming for The Surprise), and after realising our mistake we decided just to keep going. The first pitch of this climb (P2, total) had 1 bolt and 3 bits of dubious gear in 30m on some of the most fragile, defoliating, rubbish rock friction slab ive seen in Yosemite. After starting up P2 and finding that the only bolt on the pitch was broken (literally, the hanger had rusted and cracked open, no longer forming a complete loop) I backed off and climbed elsewhere.

Don't Bother Unknown Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Wed 14th Oct '15
5.9 *** Commitment

Onsight pitches 1 and 3, didnt climb P2 (tried a variant 5.10a +R out right). P1 and P3 are classic crack climbing pitches with a wide variety of moves on perfect rock. The moves through the roof are committing and tricky at the grade. A brilliant moderate trad lead for anyone new to the grade.

Classic Trad 100m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Wed 14th Oct '15
Tue 13th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Tuolumne Meadows Tenaya Peak Area Tenaya Peak Wall
5.5 *** Northwest Buttress

Its great to smash out 450m climbing over 14 pitches in just over an hour by free soloing it. I opted for the 5.6/5.7 steep crack finish to the last pitch to make it more exciting. Mostly this is low 5th class climbing with a very few moves at 5.4 and 5.5. I ended up ignoring the topo and making up my own harder pitches so I could do more climbing. An okay route, but too doddly to be a classic, and the unmarked descent from the top is terrible.

Very Good Alpine 460m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Tue 13th Oct '15
Mon 12th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley South Lower Merced Canyon Tutleback Dome The Rostrum North Face
5.11c *** The Regular North Face Route

After a nearby accident required my help to assist in the rescue, we were forced to bail before we could really get started. It looks stunning from the start of the climb, hopefully I can get back to it.

Unknown Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Mon 12th Oct '15
Sun 6th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face
5.7 R *** Snake Dike

Labour Day w/e... oops... very busy. Left the valley at 5.30am but reached the base of the route behind 3 groups that left at 4am. It was a slow day, but good views, and thankful we weren't one of the several groups stuck at the base watching!

The run-outs are big, but the climbing is straight-forward, keep a cool head.

Mega Classic Trad 550m Yosemite National Park Richard Pattison
Sun 6th Sep '15
5.7 R *** Snake Dike

A great day-out with spectacular views and the dike is such a unique feature. The chains/steps had been lowered/removed from the hiking route that week, so we were lucky to get on the route first, and even had an hour on the summit by ourselves. Fantastic.

The crux is maybe just-before (BD#1 cam) or just-after (bolt) P2 belay, both well protected. Or, half-way up P5 where the dike stops & starts again (BD#0.5? in finger crack).

Mega Classic Trad 550m Yosemite National Park Richard Pattison
Thu 16th Oct '14
Fri 4th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Dome
5.7 ** South Face

An excellent mountain adventure. We hiked-in from the Tioga road (Tuolumne) the night before and camped near the summit watching the sunset on Half Dome, magical.

P3 is the route-find crux, head right asap. P4 & P5 were pure fun, P6 is a serious strenuous layback, surely sandbagged at 5.7?

I was complacent on P8, striding up to the top and suddenly found myself in the middle of 5.6 friction with no idea where my last piece was... oo er... please don't fall...a nervy few moments...

Classic Trad 270m Yosemite National Park Richard Pattison
Fri 4th Sep '15
Sat 10th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon The Cookie Cliff
5.11a *** Outer Limits

Threw away the tick on this one, while cruising it above the crux in the steep jams, miles above my last piece of pro, contemplating where to put my one remaining cam that fitted... I had a random foot slip off my thin stance, and a big fall. Brilliant, varied steep crack climbing on immaculate rock, and with a funky, pumpy finish. Really annoyed at myself for punting this beauty.

Classic Trad 47m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Sat 10th Oct '15
5.11b ** Pringles

Took every trick I had to onsight this sustained vertical number. Working granite microflakes with friction-slab style footers, laybacks, iron-cross moves, and hand-foot matching all the way to the anchors. Amazing and improbable climbing for granite.

Classic Sport 30m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Sat 10th Oct '15
5.10d *** Catchy

Really varied crack climbing with a reachy sporty crux move right at the end. Didnt feel too hard for the grade.

Very Good Trad 30m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Sat 10th Oct '15
Fri 9th Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face
5.9 C2 VI *** The Nose

5.10c C1+ graded based on what I onsighted (though attempted to free up to 5.11c). Managed to climb free heaps of the route, with some french-free, and only a few pitches of actual aid, over 2.5 days hauling 45kgs. Reached pitch 21 on the first day after battling past a swarm of clueless climbers clogging up the lower pitches. So much immaculate rock and climbing in a stunning position, and at relatively tame grades. A dream come true! Pulling 5.10c over 1000m clean air... INSPIRING!

- with Stephen Varney
Mega Classic Aid 1000m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Fri 9th Oct '15
Mon 28th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face
5.9 *** Central Pillar of Frenzy Classic Trad 170m Yosemite National Park Stephen Varney
Mon 28th Sep '15
Sat 3rd Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area
5.10c ** Sherrie's Crack

Third shot. Still learning finger crack tech. But getting better!

- with Paul Thomson
Good Trad 24m Yosemite National Park Stephen Varney
Sat 3rd Oct '15
5.10b ** Knuckleheads

Second shot

Very Good Sport 27m Yosemite National Park Stephen Varney
Mon 28th Sep '15
Wed 30th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Washington Column South Face
5.8 C1 V *** South Face Very Good Aid 370m Yosemite National Park Stephen Varney
Wed 30th Sep '15
Fri 2nd Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face
5.7 R *** Snake Dike Classic Trad 550m Yosemite National Park Stephen Varney
Fri 2nd Oct '15
Sat 3rd Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area
5.10b ** Knob Job Classic Trad 61m Yosemite National Park Stephen Varney
Sat 3rd Oct '15
5.10b ** Boneheads Good Sport 24m Yosemite National Park Stephen Varney
Sat 3rd Oct '15
Sat 3rd Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area
5.10b ** Knob Job

Mostly easy-ish (but great) crack climbing with a gnarly short crux near the top. Definately worth a lap.

Very Good Trad 61m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Sat 3rd Oct '15
5.10d * Polymastia

Wandery, but varied and interesting. The trad-corner start is awkward but funky, the traverse and the arete are technical, and the remainder is consistent friction slabbing... but annoying to clean.

Very Good Unknown Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Sat 3rd Oct '15
5.10b ** Boneheads

A very hard start (relative to the rest of the climb - though probably easier than many yosemite 5.10b's), followed by easy fun knob-jugging up a hanging block. If you get to the 3rd bolt, its all cruisy to the end, but heaps of juggy fun. A good warmup.

Very Good Sport 24m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Sat 3rd Oct '15
Sat 3rd Oct '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face
5.7 R *** Snake Dike

A seriously long day, but a stellar climb. O/S odd pitches. Clean 2nd even pitches. No real hard moves, but so many pitches of juggy-dike friction slabbing with (literally) 20m runouts. Simply tonnes of fun. 2.5hrs to get to the start. 2.5hrs to climb it and 3 hours to descend back to the car. Glad we got a really early start, as by the time we were halfway to the top there were 10 groups queued at the base.

- with Stephen Varney
Classic Trad 550m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Sat 3rd Oct '15
Wed 30th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Washington Column South Face
5.8 C1 V *** South Face

Climbed this multi-day Big Wall route in a mega one-day push (car to car in 14 hours), made possible by attempting to freeclimb most of the pitches that are usually aided (I climbed 6 of 11 pitches free, all onsight to 5.10d... and together we only aided 3 pitches). I led (onsight) pitches 1, 2 & 3 (linked), 6, 8 and 9. A great moderately big Big wall, with great climbing on every pitch (except perhaps the last), and surprisingly enjoyable aid climbing. Great position.

- with Stephen Varney
Classic Aid 370m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Sep '15
Mon 28th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley North Lower Merced Canyon Pat and Jack Pinnacle Area
5.10c ** Sherrie's Crack

Burly fingercrack start on glassy footers, followed by easier thin-hands up a vague corner crack. Short and sweet, but not very sustained.

Very Good Trad 24m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Mon 28th Sep '15
5.10d *** Skinheads

2nd shot. Blew the onsight with it ALMOST in the bag, when I spooged off slippery sloper. A very hard start, then hard friction slab moves separated by easier climbing all the way to the anchors. There seems to be a tonne of bolts in this for a Yosemite route.

Very Good Unknown Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Mon 28th Sep '15
5.10b * Trough of Justice

Linked the lower (crux) section of Knuckleheads into the upper (crux) section of this climb, avoiding the doddly bits of both routes. I found the climbing and crux on this to be extremely balancy (almost hands-free), and more in line with other Valley 5.10b's, but the bolting means you do the crux above a runout and an unclean fall, somewhat ruining the experience.

Good Unknown 33m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Mon 28th Sep '15
5.10b ** Knuckleheads

Linked the lower (crux) section of this into the upper (crux) section of Trough of Justice, avoiding the doddly bits of both routes. I found the climbing and crux of this route perhaps a touch soft compared to other valley routes, but thoroughly enjoyable friction slab climbing on big slopers, and appropriately bolted.

Very Good Sport 27m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Mon 28th Sep '15
Mon 28th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face
5.9 *** Central Pillar of Frenzy

O/S P1, P3 and P5; 2nd Clean P3 & P4. Consistently brilliant and varied crack climbing the whole way. Possibly the best value for money i've found in The Valley so far. Sure P1 is the worst of the pitches by comparison but anywhere else it would still be a classic in its own right.

- with Stephen Varney
Classic Trad 170m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Mon 28th Sep '15
Sat 26th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face
5.11b *** The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe)

Lead pitches 6 7 8.

Aid 400m Yosemite National Park Jakob Kapelj
Sat 26th Sep '15
5.11b *** The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe)

Tried to do triple direct but didn't realize how small the gear was. Much thinner than the nose!

Aid 400m Yosemite National Park Jakob Kapelj
Sat 26th Sep '15
5.9 C2 VI *** The Nose

Lead and hauled each pitch. Fixed to Sickle, made it to dolt the second day before crashing for 2 hrs, then summed up the energy to get to El Cap Twr. Day three got a little held up but made it to the pitch below the great roof. Day 4 cruised the great roof in 45 mins and was at camp 6 by 3pm! Big wall chill time was great! Day 5 topped out by 12pm right beside Hans Florine doing his 100th ascent!

Rack-1 set x4 offsets, doubles in c4/x4 0.2 to #4. Triple red and #3. Set link cams. Offset nuts

- with Hannah Bowey
Mega Classic Aid 1000m Yosemite National Park Jakob Kapelj
Sat 26th Sep '15
Thu 24th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Tenaya Canyon Mt Watkins
5.9 A2 VI South Face Route

My 1st bigwall. Done over 3 days. 2 hour approach hike, 300m of jumaaring fixed ropes to get to the climb, 900m of climbing over 19 pitches, and a 4 hour descent. Absolutely epic and physically taxing. The climbing is hard at the grade, loose, untraffic'd and sketchy, with moments of brilliance. I freed what I could up to 5.10c then aided the rest. Bivvied on a 1m wide rock ledge next to the void. Finished the last pitches in the dark, and back to the car at 0200hrs. Mega and masochistic.

- with Stephen Varney
Very Good Aid 910m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Thu 24th Sep '15
Sat 5th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches The Royal Arches Center
5.10a *** Royal Arches Route Classic Trad 430m Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Sat 5th Sep '15
Fri 4th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Yosemite Falls Lower Yosemite Falls Swan Slab
5.11b * Aid Route Very Good Mixed 55m, 3 Yosemite National Park Philip Curry
Fri 4th Sep '15
Sun 20th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Church Bowl
5.10b * Church Bowl Tree

Aid practice for Mt Watkins next week... hooray. Also, multiple cam hooks in a row (for practice) are scary.

Very Good Trad 18m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Sun 20th Sep '15
Sat 19th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Serenity Crack Area
5.10a *** Sons of Yesterday

Witb Stephen. P1 only. Linked into P3 of Serenity Crack for a megapitch, because there were 5 bumblies on the rap cluster-f@#king the belay, and I didnt feel like dealing with them. An okay pitch with a few cool moves (and surprisingly little gear).

Very Good Trad 240m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Sat 19th Sep '15
5.10d *** Serenity Crack

With Stephen. OS P1, Clean 2nd P2, 1 fall at crux P3, then clean to top from below crux (with no extra gear). Mega, but felt HARD. The unprotected 8m greasy friction slab start on P1 had me working the headgames to keep calm in the sweaty sun, and leads to super-sustained thin seam-crack. P2 was easier fingers and ringlocks with an awesome friction step across and an insecure seam-crux. P3 was awesome steep jams to an insane fingercrack crux with no feet that felt like trad 24 for back home

Classic Trad 110m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Fri 18th Sep '15
Fri 18th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southeast Face
5.10b *** East Buttress

With Stephen. OS P2 & P3 (linked), P4, P6 & P7 (linked), P8 & P9 (linked), P11 and P13. 2nd Clean P1, P5, P10 and P12. Amazing position and involved climbing for my first route on El Capitan (sort of). Hard stemming finish on P1, Hard friction Slab start P2, and consistantly hard and runout climbing on P9 (I chose the offwidth variant and had no gear to protect it). Improbably mega climbing with surprisingly complex moves and some real boldness.

Classic Trad 500m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Fri 18th Sep '15
Wed 16th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley Three Brothers Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress
5.9 R * Jump for Joy

Not too sure why this gets an R-rating compared to other stuff i've done here... sure, its 7m to the first bit of gear, but its easy. And the crux has spaced fiddly gear on thin slab, but there gear IS there. An enjoyable, featured gear route.

Very Good Trad 46m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Wed 16th Sep '15
5.10a PG13 ** Hayley's Comet

Exciting in the sweaty sun. Very runout, but not consistantly dangerous... except at the 2nd bolt where you'll hit the ground from 6m up if you come off the crux friction slab moves. Not so bad if the draw is on the 2nd bolt.

Very Good Sport 21m, 4 Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Wed 16th Sep '15
5.9 *** Nutcracker Right Start

2nding Stephen. Climbed as an isolated pitch after coming down from Nutcracker... Yep, I slipped off this as a random footer popped off a glassy smear while cruising the crux. Very disappointing. Quite cruxy, but a great pitch in its own right.

Very Good Trad 61m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Wed 16th Sep '15
5.8 *** Nutcracker

With Stephen. Onsight P1, P3 and P5; 2nd clean P2 and P4. Quite sustained and so polished as to be utterly frictionless. Great climbing, surprisingly demanded, and without any boring bits. The "crux" mantle felt grades easier than sections of P1 and P3. Stoked to finally get on this classic.

Classic Trad 180m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Wed 16th Sep '15
Tue 15th Sep '15 - Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Church Bowl
5.7 * Uncle Fanny

Seconding Stephen. I decided to only use the wide crack for chimneying/offwidth practice... in that style it felt desperate. Good climbing, but once again it felt substantially harder than the grade.

Very Good Trad 37m Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Tue 15th Sep '15
5.10a * Pole Position

Stayed on the true (contrived) line for the full tick. Thin, insecure, techy friction slabbing. It was raining before I jumped on this... in a 10-second break from the rain I started up it, and it rained again. I spent most of the climb trying to dry crucial footers (and my shoes) with chalk. Linked into the 5.10a righthand neighbour from its last bolt up (with no gear) for a more sustained finish.

Very Good Sport 40m, 8 Yosemite National Park Paul Thomson
Tue 15th Sep '15

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