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Routes as trad in Middle Cathedral Rock

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
East Buttress
5.10c East Buttress
1 5.6 120ft
2 5.8 40ft
3 5.8 100ft
4 5.7 100ft
5 5.10c 100ft
6 5.8 100ft
7 5.7 120ft
8 5.8 130ft
9 5.7 100ft
10 5.8 140ft
11 5.7 120ft

About 12 single rope Rapels

Description is for climber facing the cliff

Locate the rap anchor a few meters to the left

Rap diagonally to the left towards a distinct triangular block, NOT steight down

The next anchor is to the left hand side

Rap towards the groove with the tree Do not pass the tree stop 3-4meters before.

Look left it's not super obvious but that's where the next Rap anchor is

Take care with the rope on this rap that it doesn't get caught on the trees 20m or so below. Flake it on yourself /harness.

From this point on the raps are straight forward down the face. Easy to locate, even with a headtorch if you are rappeling in the dark.

Apart from maybe rap 8 or 9 where the face becomes less slabby. The Rap is a little bit more to the left

Very good Route!

Heaps of chossy rock to look out for though

Made me feal a bit that I was climbing in the mountains...

We linked 3-4 easy

And 7-8 in a mega 70m long pitch

I would suggest not linking 1 with 2

The start of 2 can be a bit commiting, Nicer to have the belayer next to you, to stop you for decking

We aided the bolted pitch

Could have been fun to try climb it, but not fun if we wasted that time and got caught out in the dark for the last couple of pitches

Especially when you need to do 12Raps to get out Rumor has it to better Rap than do the walk off..

FA: W. Harding, J. Davis & B. Swift, 1954

FFA: F. Sacherer & E. Leeper, 1965

Mixed trad 360m, 9
5.10a Fifty Crowded Variation
Mixed trad 30m, 4
Northeast Face
5.9 Kor-Beck

Burly climbing up the right side of a major recess around the corner from the Central Pillar. Follow the third class terrain up the left until you reach the major recess. Easiest to rap on double ropes however a nest of fixed nuts halfway up the 1st pitch enables rapping on a single 70m rope.

Trad 190m, 5
5.11b Bircheff-Williams
Trad
5.9 Central Pillar of Frenzy

One of the best 5.9 routes in the Valley! This stunning route can be identified by the twin crack system of the second pitch just left of the bear bins. Amazing climbing. Most parties rap at the top of the 5th pitch using double ropes. A 70m rope will need to be extended to reach on the first rap (top of 5th pitch).

FA: Jim Bridwell et al., 1973

Trad 170m, 5
5.10a R Paradise Lost
Trad
5.10a Pee Pee Pillar
Trad
North Buttress
5.10c Ho Chi Minh Trail

FA: 1989

Trad 600m, 19
North Face
5.13 V Father Time

FFA: Mikey Schaefer, 2012

Mixed trad 610m, 16, 99

Showing all 9 routes.

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