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Description:

On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style.

The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick.

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Lynn Hill, 1993

  • First Ascent: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, 1958

Location:  

Located in Southwest Face approx:
Long/Lat: -119.640251,37.732919

Route Grade Citations

*** Hard Landin' Brandon
*** Jakob Kapelj
VI 5.11 A2 Yosemite Climbs: Big Walls
VI 5.13b Rock Climbing Yosemite Free Climbs
VI 5.13b or 5.11 A2 *** Rock Climbing Yosemite's Select
5.13c Rock 'N Road: Rock Climbing Areas of North America
5.13c or 5.9 C2 *** The Road to the Nose
5.13c or 5.9 C2 *** Yosemite Big Walls
VI 5.13c or 5.8 A2- SuperTopo.com
5.9 C2 VI Principal

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

great classic awesome rest contrived roof crack

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