Site navigation

Section navigation

1 5.11c
2
Description:

On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style.

The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick.

Speed Records

  • 1975 : Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay : 17:45
  • 1984 : Duncan Critchley, Romain Vogler : 09:30 (approximate)
  • 1986 : John Bachar, Peter Croft : 10:05
  • 1990 : Hans Florine, Steve Schneider : 8:06
  • 1990 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 6:40
  • 1991 : Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel : 6:01
  • 1991 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 4:48
  • 1992 : Hans Florine, Peter Croft : 4:22
  • 2001-10 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:59:35
  • 2001-10 : Hans Florine, Jim Herson : 3:57:27
  • 2001-11 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:24:20
  • 2002-9-29 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:48:55
  • 2007-10-4 : Alexander and Thomas Huber : 2:48:30
  • 2007-10-8 : Alexander and Thomas Huber : 2:45:45
  • 2008-7-2 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:43:33
  • 2008-10-12 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:37:05
  • 2010-11-6 : Dean Potter †, Sean Leary : 2:36:45
  • 2012-6-17 : Hans Florine, Alex Honnold : 2:23:46
  • 2017-10-21 : Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright : 2:19:44
Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore, 1958

  • First Free Ascent: Lynn Hill, 1993

Location:  

Located in Southwest Face approx:
Lat/Long: 37.732919,-119.640251

Route Grade Citations

5.9 C2 VI Community registered grade
Hard Landin' Brandon
VI 5.11 A2 Yosemite Climbs: Big Walls
5.11c, A1 private
VI 5.13b Rock Climbing Yosemite Free Climbs
VI 5.13b or 5.11 A2 Rock Climbing Yosemite's Select
5.13c Rock 'N Road: Rock Climbing Areas of North America
5.13c or 5.9 C2 Yosemite Big Walls
5.13c or 5.9 C2 The Road to the Nose
VI 5.13c or 5.8 A2- SuperTopo.com
5.9 C1 private

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 91%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sweet great classic awesome flake rest jamming epic contrived roof crack

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on The Nose (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.