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Summary

The best crag of Cat Ba Island.

Description

Routes listed L to R.

Access issues

Visit Asia Outdoors in Cat Ba Town for an access pass. It's cheap and ensures climbing is allowed to continue here.

Approach

The crag is located 10 km from Cat Ba Town, ask at Asia Outdoors for a detailed approach description.

Where to stay

At the basic camp called "The Hive" under the crag or in Cat Ba Town.

History

View timeline of historical ascents

Bolte mainly by Erik Ferjentsik and Onslo Carrington between 2007 and 2010.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
6a Intrigues Sport 28m, 13

Shares the start with Dublin Mudslide and splits off left after a ledge halfway up. Also may be dirty after rainy season.

FA: David Weintraub

2
6a * Dublin Mudslide Sport 25m, 12

Start on the furthest left bolted line in Upper Mantle and head straight up.

FA: Sander DiAngelis

3

Pumpy start, then a nice rest before a technical face.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik

4
7c ** Year of the Tiger Sport 26m, 12

Crimpy!

FA: Reagan Chung, 2010

5
7b ** Thanks For The Memories Sport 31m, 15

Start just left of the large tufa and go way up a ledgey face until a tough overhanging crack.

FA: Glenn Ferguson, 2009

6

The 10m extension to My Way up two overhung fingercracks.

FA: Lee Cujes & and Team Australia, 2009

7
7a+ *** My Way Sport 18m, 9

Consider a stickclip for the first bolt not to fall into the cave below!

FA: Lee Cujes & and Team Australia, 2009

8
7b * Moustache Massage Man Sport 2, 16

Crimpy start into a ledgey climb. Extends into Cung-Duoc-Day (7b) for another 17m with some bouldery moves.

FFA: Vu Nguyen

FA: Maureen Adridge, 2010

9
5c * Vu Duyen Sport 8m, 7

Nice warmup.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2010

10
6c+ * Fingerless Pho Man Sport 20m, 10

Fairly easy climbing until the overhang. Follow the obvious crack to the anchor. Can be a bit dirty after rainy season.

FA: Reagan Chung, 2010

11
7a+ Chia Tay (Divide Hands) Sport 20m, 12

Shares the start and anchors with Fingerless Pho Man and branches off right onto the face before the overhung crack.

FA: Reagan Chung, 2010

12
7a * Brooklyn Buddah SportProject 18m, 10

Relatively easy climbing until a leaning dihedral crack with a crux near the end. May be easier for taller climbers.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2011

13
7c+ ** Dream Weaver Unknown 22m, 18

Clip the first bolt from the boulder above to avoid a fall into the cave below. Start in the cave on two knobby white tufas.

FA: Chris Lindner, 2008

14
5a * Chuyen Nui Sport 20m, 10

Nice warmup. Shares the start with 5 Fun, then branches left towards the cave.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

15
5a * 5 Fun Sport 22m, 9

Nice warmup. Shares the start with Chuyen Nui and then branches right onto the slab.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

16
4+ ** Roots Reggae Sport 2, 13

UPDATE 29.2.16: The 1st bolt is loose, though the remainder of the route is climbable. Check in with Asia Outdoors in Cat Ba for current route conditions.

Consider back-cleaning the first few bolts to avoid rope drag. A really fun climb up nice holds and tree roots! Can be extended another 6m and 3 bolts to a higher anchor.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

17
4+ * 4 Play Sport 26m, 11

The low angled route ~10m left of large tree

Set by Vu Nguyen

FA: Jen Gosley, 2016

18
5c * Bread and Butter Sport 23m, 9

9 bolts, 1 sling. Consider backing up the sling, or extending some of the last bolts to avoid rope drag. Some tricky moves getting through the dihedral at the start, but fun climbing afterwards!

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

19
6c+ ** Brian's"Closed" Project Sport 22m, 13

Bouldery start, relatively calm middle section, and overhang just before the anchor to make it more fun!

FA: Brian Jones, 2011

20
6b+ ** Very Tot Sport 21m, 11

Tricky overhang start leads to awesome climbing and a huge tufa.

FA: Stephen Le, 2007

21
6c+ ** Miyagi Box Maker Sport 20m, 12

Bouldery start, consider stick-clipping the first bolt. A couple cruxes.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

22
6b ** You Enjoy Myself Sport 20m, 11

Crux is getting out of the dihedral and over the lip.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

23
7b *** Prayer Of The Mantis Sport 20m, 11

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. Following the bolt line is the direct route, though many take an alternate start a bit to the left and closer to You Enjoy Myself. Stay on the arete and avoid coming out right onto the face for the true line!

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

24
6c+ * A Dengue Ate My Davey Sport 19m, 10

Traverse the face on pockets to a slopey ledge. The direct line goes straight up the roof, though some feel this is contrived and opt to traverse left up the ledge and direct to the anchors.

FA: Dave Nassi, 2007

25
7b+ ** Hippie Banana Tree Killer Sport 25m, 13

Crazy overhang with bouldery moves.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

26
7b+ Passive Aggressive Sport 21m, 11

Big overhang on large pockets and then pumpy face climbing.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

27
7b ** If Only I Could Be A Shrimp Unknown 25m, 13

Powerful roof climbing into a tricky face.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

28
6c ** Cracker Jack Sport 21m, 12

Pumpy jug climbing with a few good rests and a few cruxes.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

29
7a+ ** Team Ling Ling Sport 28m, 14

Shares the start with Pappi's Paradise and branches up and left at the second (smaller) roof.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

30
7a ** Pappi's Paradise Sport 28m, 14

Shares the start with Team Ling Ling, and branches right at the second (smaller) roof. Enjoy the subsequent sloepy tufa face climb!

FA: Chris Clohessey, 2008

31
7c Little Dragon Sport 35m, 15

Start shared with Enter the Dragon but heads straight up the giant mushroom-tufa after exiting the cave. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

FFA: Vu Nguyen, 2012

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2012

32
8a+ Enter The Dragon Sport 35m, 14

Shares the start with Little Dragon in the dragon's mouth cave. Exit the cave and head up and right onto its teeth and face. Professional belay recommended. Tie a know in the end of your rope.

FFA: Erik Ferjentsik

FA: Marcus, 2009

33
7c+ ** Horseless Samurai Sport 27m, 15

Overhangs and tufas and cracks. Have fun!

FA: Onslo Carrington

FFA: Audrey Sniezek (onsight!), 2010

34
7a ** Obama 101 Sport 20m, 12

Cracks and tufas. Crux at third bolt. Careful belay recommended.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2009

35
7a+ *** Buffalo Love Sport 26m, 15

Dihedral crack to roof to slab. Bit of everything! Watch out for the boulder at the start (spot, crashpad, or start on top of it) or consider princess clipping the first bolt! Back-clean afterwards to avoid rope drag and help out your belayer.

FA: Onslo Carrington

FFA: Peter Mortimer, 2009

36
7a * Up Syndrome Sport 20m, 13

Crimpy tufas to a nice rest, then tackle the slopey ledge for the crux.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

37

Fun tufa climbing. Can be dirty near the top.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

38
6c * 50/50 Sport 20m, 10

Sketchy moves going past the first two bolts with a crux just below the anchor.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2009

39
6b+ *** Elephant Man Sport 20m, 10

Classic! Enjoy pockets and cracks all along the face.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

40
8a+ Roman's Karmic Curse Sport 17m, 10

Small holds requiring enduring power.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 2011

FFA: Steve Bradshaw, 2011

41
6c+ ** Bolts 'R' us Sport 16m, 8

Gentle overhang on nice holds leads to a powerful crux. Most opt for a dynamic approach, but an absurd drop knee allows for a static movement.

FA: Matt Raue & Jo Bulmer, 2010

42
7c+ *** Monarch Sport 25m, 13

Begins with an easy crack then changes dramatically into a sustained crux to the anchors.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2010

43
6c+ * Hunting Double Rainbows Sport 20m, 12

Beautiful tufas and pockets then a techy dihedral before the anchor.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2011

44
6b * The Feeling of Freedom Sport 19m, 10

Big tufas to a tricky finish. Tends to be dirty and is not frequently repeated as a result.

FA: Sinan Turb, 2012

45
7b ** Freakonomics Sport 27m, 13

Diverse climbing with several cruxes and overhangs.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

46
7b ** Muhammad Ali Sport 22m, 12

Pockets to slab to overhang with some nice rests. Top is technical and makes the grade and necessitates a careful belay.

FA: Lee Cujes & Samantha Cujes, 2010

47
6a * Rome to Hanoi express Sport 19m, 9

Lots of pockets and cracks to some ledges which can be tricky!

FA: Nicola Gatti, 2008

48
6b * Argentina's Delight Sport 29m, 13

Easy arête climbing (shared start with Flight of the Bumblebee and Mother butterfly) leads to a crack on the left. May be extended into Place Your Nuts Right for another 12m, but requires an 80m rope or two rappels.

FA: Javier Guillani & Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

49

A 12m extension atop Argentina's Delight. Can be a little sharp and dirty near the top, and somewhat heady on lead! Great exposure and view of the surrounding valley.

FA: Sinan Turb & Onslo Carrington, 2012

50
7b+ ** Flight of the Bumble Bee Sport 28m, 13

Shared start with Argentina's Delight and Mother Butterfly. Easy climbing at 6b/6c leads to the cruxy 2-3m before the anchors. Hope you like slopey pinches! Some argue these last moves are 7c.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

51
6a+ ** Mother Butterfly Sport 29m, 13

Shared start with Argentina's Delight and Flight of the Bumblebee. Branch right at the first opportunity and continue up the beautiful face. Don't forget to take a look out from the top!

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

52
8b Vu's Project #1 SportProject 8m, 7

A 6b roof on pockets leads to a nice rest before a blank face. Attempt the minuscule crimps to the anchors.

Set by Vu Nguyen

53
7a ** Windchime of the Ants Sport 28m, 13

Diverse climbing through resonant tufas onto stalactites and a nice face. May be dirty and/or flooded during/after the wet season.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

54
Vu's Project #2 SportProject 12m, 6

No anchor yet. Attempts the overhung face just left of Butterfly Effect.

Set by Vu Nguyen

55
8a ** Butterfly Effect Sport 12m, 10

Short but powerful through and overhang.

FA: Reagan Chung, 2010

56
{US} 5.11 Firefly Trad

FFA: Andrew Christensen, 2009

57

Shared start with Love for Breakfast. Branch left onto the white streaked face after a sharp ledge halfway up. Flooded during rainy season.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2012

58

Shared start with Searching for Meaning. Stay right after the sharp ledge and onto the white rock. Flooded during rainy season.

FA: Matthew McGeever & Onslo Carrington, 2012

Activity

Check out what is happening in Butterfly Valley (Lien Minh).