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Summary

The best crag of Cat Ba Island.

Description

Routes listed L to R.

Access issues

Visit Asia Outdoors in Cat Ba Town for an access pass. It's cheap and ensures climbing is allowed to continue here.

Approach

The crag is located 10 km from Cat Ba Town, ask at Asia Outdoors for a detailed approach description.

Where to stay

At the basic camp called "The Hive" under the crag or in Cat Ba Town.

History

View historical timeline

Bolted mainly by Erik Ferjentsik and Onslo Carrington between 2007 and 2010.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Shares the start with Dublin Mudslide and splits off left after a ledge halfway up. Also may be dirty after rainy season.

FA: David Weintraub

Start on the furthest left bolted line in Upper Mantle and head straight up.

FA: Sander DiAngelis

Pumpy start, then a nice rest before a technical face.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik

Crimpy!

FA: Reagan Chung, 2010

Start just left of the large tufa and go way up a ledgey face until a tough overhanging crack.

FA: Glenn Ferguson, 2009

The 10m extension to My Way up two overhung fingercracks.

FA: Lee Cujes & and Team Australia, 2009

Consider a stickclip for the first bolt not to fall into the cave below!

FA: Lee Cujes & and Team Australia, 2009

Crimpy start into a ledgey climb. Extends into Cung-Duoc-Day (7b) for another 17m with some bouldery moves.

FFA: Vu Nguyen

FA: Maureen Adridge, 2010

Nice warmup.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2010

Fairly easy climbing until the overhang. Follow the obvious crack to the anchor. Can be a bit dirty after rainy season.

FA: Reagan Chung, 2010

Shares the start and anchors with Fingerless Pho Man and branches off right onto the face before the overhung crack.

FA: Reagan Chung, 2010

Relatively easy climbing until a leaning dihedral crack with a crux near the end. May be easier for taller climbers.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2011

Clip the first bolt from the boulder above to avoid a fall into the cave below. Start in the cave on two knobby white tufas.

FA: Chris Lindner, 2008

Nice warmup. Shares the start with 5 Fun, then branches left towards the cave.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

Nice warmup. Shares the start with Chuyen Nui and then branches right onto the slab.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

UPDATE 29.2.16: The 1st bolt is loose, though the remainder of the route is climbable. Check in with Asia Outdoors in Cat Ba for current route conditions.

Consider back-cleaning the first few bolts to avoid rope drag. A really fun climb up nice holds and tree roots! Can be extended another 6m and 3 bolts to a higher anchor.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

The low angled route ~10m left of large tree

Set by Vu Nguyen

FA: Jen Gosley, 2016

9 bolts, 1 sling. Consider backing up the sling, or extending some of the last bolts to avoid rope drag. Some tricky moves getting through the dihedral at the start, but fun climbing afterwards!

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

Bouldery start, relatively calm middle section, and overhang just before the anchor to make it more fun!

FA: Brian Jones, 2011

Tricky overhang start leads to awesome climbing and a huge tufa.

FA: Stephen Le, 2007

Bouldery start, consider stick-clipping the first bolt. A couple cruxes.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

Crux is getting out of the dihedral and over the lip.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. Following the bolt line is the direct route, though many take an alternate start a bit to the left and closer to You Enjoy Myself. Stay on the arete and avoid coming out right onto the face for the true line!

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

Traverse the face on pockets to a slopey ledge. The direct line goes straight up the roof, though some feel this is contrived and opt to traverse left up the ledge and direct to the anchors.

FA: Dave Nassi, 2007

Crazy overhang with bouldery moves.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

Big overhang on large pockets and then pumpy face climbing.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

Powerful roof climbing into a tricky face.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

Pumpy jug climbing with a few good rests and a few cruxes.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

Shares the start with Pappi's Paradise and branches up and left at the second (smaller) roof.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

Shares the start with Team Ling Ling, and branches right at the second (smaller) roof. Enjoy the subsequent sloepy tufa face climb!

FA: Chris Clohessey, 2008

Start shared with Enter the Dragon but heads straight up the giant mushroom-tufa after exiting the cave. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

FFA: Vu Nguyen, 2012

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2012

Shares the start with Little Dragon in the dragon's mouth cave. Exit the cave and head up and right onto its teeth and face. Professional belay recommended. Tie a know in the end of your rope.

FFA: Erik Ferjentsik

FA: Marcus, 2009

Overhangs and tufas and cracks. Have fun!

FA: Onslo Carrington

FFA: Audrey Sniezek (onsight!), 2010

Cracks and tufas. Crux at third bolt. Careful belay recommended.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2009

Dihedral crack to roof to slab. Bit of everything! Watch out for the boulder at the start (spot, crashpad, or start on top of it) or consider princess clipping the first bolt! Back-clean afterwards to avoid rope drag and help out your belayer.

FA: Onslo Carrington

FFA: Peter Mortimer, 2009

Crimpy tufas to a nice rest, then tackle the slopey ledge for the crux.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

Fun tufa climbing. Can be dirty near the top.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

Sketchy moves going past the first two bolts with a crux just below the anchor.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2009

Classic! Enjoy pockets and cracks all along the face.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

Small holds requiring enduring power.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 2011

FFA: Steve Bradshaw, 2011

Gentle overhang on nice holds leads to a powerful crux. Most opt for a dynamic approach, but an absurd drop knee allows for a static movement.

FA: Matt Raue & Jo Bulmer, 2010

Begins with an easy crack then changes dramatically into a sustained crux to the anchors.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2010

Beautiful tufas and pockets then a techy dihedral before the anchor.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2011

Big tufas to a tricky finish. Tends to be dirty and is not frequently repeated as a result.

FA: Sinan Turb, 2012

Diverse climbing with several cruxes and overhangs.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

Pockets to slab to overhang with some nice rests. Top is technical and makes the grade and necessitates a careful belay.

FA: Lee Cujes & Samantha Cujes, 2010

Lots of pockets and cracks to some ledges which can be tricky!

FA: Nicola Gatti, 2008

Easy arête climbing (shared start with Flight of the Bumblebee and Mother butterfly) leads to a crack on the left. May be extended into Place Your Nuts Right for another 12m, but requires an 80m rope or two rappels.

FA: Javier Guillani & Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

A 12m extension atop Argentina's Delight. Can be a little sharp and dirty near the top, and somewhat heady on lead! Great exposure and view of the surrounding valley.

FA: Sinan Turb & Onslo Carrington, 2012

Shared start with Argentina's Delight and Mother Butterfly. Easy climbing at 6b/6c leads to the cruxy 2-3m before the anchors. Hope you like slopey pinches! Some argue these last moves are 7c.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

Shared start with Argentina's Delight and Flight of the Bumblebee. Branch right at the first opportunity and continue up the beautiful face. Don't forget to take a look out from the top!

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

A 6b roof on pockets leads to a nice rest before a blank face. Attempt the minuscule crimps to the anchors.

Set by Vu Nguyen

Diverse climbing through resonant tufas onto stalactites and a nice face. May be dirty and/or flooded during/after the wet season.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

No anchor yet. Attempts the overhung face just left of Butterfly Effect.

Set by Vu Nguyen

Short but powerful through and overhang.

FA: Reagan Chung, 2010

FFA: Andrew Christensen, 2009

Shared start with Love for Breakfast. Branch left onto the white streaked face after a sharp ledge halfway up. Flooded during rainy season.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2012

Shared start with Searching for Meaning. Stay right after the sharp ledge and onto the white rock. Flooded during rainy season.

FA: Matthew McGeever & Onslo Carrington, 2012

Activity

Check out what is happening in Butterfly Valley (Lien Minh).